Checking the fit of the reinforcing block for the keel haul cleat
Epoxying the block to the sheer strake
Precious little could be done on the boat today, but I managed to make one small thing, an oak reinforcing block for a cleat for a rope that will be attached to the pulley system for lifting and lowering the keel. When the starboard forward deck panel is glued to the hull, it will also be glued to the upper surface of the block. Because part of the butt plate for the fore and aft decks overlap the position of the cleat block, I’ll need to remove that part of the butt plate, so that the deck will be flush with the top of the side panel.
The only outstanding item for the interior is the seat, and according to my choice of seat, I’ll have to build supports for it. I shall not be able to paint that part of the inside of the hull until seat mounts have been fitted. As I mentioned yesterday, I’ll have to fix rubbing strips to the bottom of the boat, and I need to decide if I’m screwing them on from inside or out. If I decide on doing it from inside, I’ll not be able to start the painting until I finish joining the rubbing strips to the hull.
Before I paint the exterior of the hull I’ll most probably apply epoxied GRP tape to the chines – at least two layers in the central region, because that’s where most abrasion will occur when launching and retrieving the boat. She has to be placed on her side when inserting the keel; therefore GRP tape in that region will protect the plywood. Flaking of paint will be inevitable on the chines, but I can help minimize it by slightly rounding them before epoxying GRP tape. It will also be easier to make the tape adhere to the hull at the chines if they are rounded.