A boat is unlike a car in that she is very individual,
especially when it comes to handling. Cars are much of a likeness. They have
steering wheels, accelerators and brakes. Drive one car, you can drive another.
There are no brakes on sailboats, and speed is down to sail handling. Steering
is by tiller or wheel. Because of their individual characteristics, boats will
respond differently when experiencing identical conditions. Their helmsmen have
to know how to get the best out of them.
Experience counts. Put the boat into the hands of a novice, and
she will not be sailed to her maximum potential.
On parting with a boat to a new owner, I usually give him a
list of tips. My suggestions are based on what I have learned when sailing and
looking after her. I shall be giving ‘Sandpiper’s’ new owner the following
notes:
‘Sandpiper’
Use of the Trailer
When the
trailer is not attached to the towing vehicle place a support under the back
end to stop it from tipping, especially when someone is in the cockpit.
Before
launching the boat, cover the vent holes on the wheel caps with waterproof tape
to prevent water entering the bearings. Remove the tape after retrieving the
boat.
Use a long
rope with a turn around the ball hitch to lower the trailer and boat in the
water. Have a painter to hand for securing the
boat while the trailer is being retrieved.
Rigging the Boat
Have a stepladder
or stool handy for getting in and out of the boat.
Lay the mast
and Genoa luff rod centrally on top of the boat. The top of the mast needs to
be kept clear of the hatch. This can be done with a helper or by an improvised
support. I use a padded stool on top of the lazarette lid.
Insert the
bolt through the tabernacle and mast. Make sure the mast is placed centrally in
the tabernacle. Shackle shrouds to the chainplates. Attach a line to the eye at
the bottom of the forestay to which the tack strop is shackled. This line is
pulled when the mast is being lifted – best done by someone standing in the
cockpit. If you are on your own, the line can be passed through the forward
hole of the tack plate, so that it can be pulled when the mast is being lifted.
Temporarily secure the line.
Alight from
the boat and pass the line under the forward crossbar of the trailer’s winch
mechanism and thread it back through the eye at the tack end of the forestay.
Pull down the line to tighten the forestay. If you find this difficult,
tie the end to the winch crossbar and use a rod to make a
tourniquet. The lower tack strop can then be shackled to the tack plate. Remove
the tourniquet and line. The mast is now rigged.
Place wooden
cheeks either side of the mast within the tabernacle.
Slot the
boom onto the gooseneck, and pass the lower end of the fixed topping lift
through the upper shackle of the fitting at the aft end of the boom. Secure the
end of the topping lift by making a rolling hitch. This can be used to adjust
the boom height. Shackle the mainsheet block to the boom. To raise the boom
when not sailing, lift it and pass the topping lift under a cleat on the starboard
side of the boom, then under the port cleat.
This is a
good time to ship the rudder and the outboard - both in their fully raised
positions.
Sailing
The boat
performs well when on her designed waterline. Therefore make sure the bow has
sufficient weight to keep her trimmed correctly. Lead or water ballast forward
of the forward bulkhead will do the trick. She will not go to windward
efficiently unless she is trimmed correctly.
Think about
reefing when at the upper end of Force 3. From thereon, reef both the Genoa and
the mainsail to achieve a balance. The mainsail is easily reefed when the boat
is hove to, i.e., with the foresail backed and the mainsail freed off to
leeward. The tiller should be secured to leeward. In this position lower the
sail while manually rolling it around the boom. You can reef to the lower
batten, but in extreme conditions, you should extract it and insert a couple of
towels before rolling further. This is to raise the boom while keeping the sail
flat. Make sure the topping lift is slack to allow the sail to set properly.
Keep the luff very taught.
Centreplate and Rudder
Before
lowering the centreplate remove the securing pin. Lower the plate steadily
until fully down. The support bolt passes through a curved slot, not a regular
hole; therefore when the plate is being lowered it slightly moves aft. It may
be necessary to push the rudder down, until it is fully down. If it is not
fully down, the boat won’t sail to windward properly. When the boat is at anchor
it is better to have both the plate and the rudder raised.
Tiller
The tiller
can be lifted to allow the lid of the lazarette to be raised. It can also be
separated from the rudder by sliding it aft.
Anchoring
Free-off the
anchor chain and flake about 6 or 7 metres of warp onto the cabin top. Have the
anchor ready on the foredeck for letting go.
Cooker
Ignite a
match or gas lighter; hold it over the burner and turn the knob anticlockwise. The
canister can be released by lifting the lever. I never did this until replacing
a canister. I was vigilant not to accidentally turn the knob on.
Solar Panel and Battery
It is a good
idea to periodically check the battery voltage with a voltmeter to make sure
the solar panel is doing its work,. That’s because there is a possibility that
the plug may not be correctly fitted into the socket. The battery is
maintenance free.
Cockpit Drain
If the boat
is trimmed to her lines, the cockpit will drain, but if she is down at the
stern she won’t fully drain. It is best to keep the plug in the cockpit drain because
under certain conditions water can be siphoned into the cockpit. The plug also
keeps rubbish out!
There are
two tiny drains at the very aft of the cockpit that need periodic checking to
ensure they are not blocked.
Lazarette
The lid of
the lazarette can be kept open by a line under it attached to cleats on the
outside of the coamings.
Well, I’m looking forward to meeting ‘Sandpiper’s’ new owner
on Saturday, when he comes to collect her.
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