A Different Day

Preparing for varnishing

Keel weight fairing

Instead of boat building all day, I helped my daughter remove ‘Ladybird’s’ winter cover and varnish her exterior wooden parts, namely her coaming, seats and handrails. An advantage of a small sailing cruiser is that maintaining her need not be an arduous task. All that remains to be done before she will be launched is the antifouling which is the worst job. I can’t say I enjoy lying on my back under a boat applying antifouling with a roller, but that’s better than a brush. Getting an even coating on the surface of the hull is more easily done with a roller – quicker too, than applying paint with a brush, but keeping the stuff off spectacles, face and hair is nigh impossible.


Well, the tasks of taking the cover off the boat and doing the varnishing occupied us for the morning. Before returning home in the afternoon, after having a picnic lunch while sitting on the sea wall, I sawed off a rusty shackle that was attached to the anchor. This had left a small stain on the foredeck where the anchor was customarily stowed for instant use. Rust stains are particularly stubborn when it comes to removing them from gelcoat.


Back at home I filed and sanded epoxy putty that I had applied to the keel weights the day before, and I also faired the other sides with epoxy putty. Tomorrow when it has hardened, I’ll be able to complete the fairing.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 58

The rudder stock and rudder coated with epoxy

Epoxy Putty applied to a keel weight

Keel Box panels

I had a really good day doing parts for the boat. After sanding the rudder stock I coated it and the rudder with epoxy. Leftover epoxy I used for making putty to infill irregularities between the lead pieces of the keel weights. I also laminated a piece of hardwood to a piece of softwood for making the fore and aft end parts of the keel box. I want hardwood on the inside of the keel box, because the leading and aft edges of the keel are made of hardwood. Hardwood rubbing against hardwood will be better than hardwood against softwood. Finally I cut two plywood panels for the keel box and measured where they would be joined to the keelson.


My next jobs will be completing the keel box and cutting a slot in keelson for the keel to pass through. When the slot has been cut I’ll be able to fit the plywood bottom of the boat. It is quite likely that I shall cut a slot in the plywood before attaching it to the bottom so that it exactly marries with the slot in the keelson. Precision will be required because the keel box will need to line up with both the slot in the keelson and the plywood bottom. All of the interior surfaces will have to be epoxied before parts are assembled. There will not be much room for manoeuvre because according to the boat plans there is less than a sixteenth of an inch to spare either side of the drop keel. I can, of course, make the keel box a fraction wider to give the keel more room for sliding in and out. Accordingly, that would require me to make the slot through the bottom of the boat a fraction wider also.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 57

At last I got around to making something new - the rudder stock. That’s not absolutely true, because I started the stock last year. Today I made the yoke that comes in two parts, one either side of the stock. I glued all the parts together, but not before testing the rudder to make sure it would swing without hindrance. The rudder will be held down in the water with a length of line fixed to a loop of bungee that can be held in place by a hook on the aft deck. The bungee is necessary to ensure that the rudder will give way if it comes into contact with a solid underwater object such as rock.


Before I joined the two side pieces of the stock I drilled holes through them for bronze nails that locate and help secure the yoke pieces to the stock. These were joined to the stock not only with the bronze nails, but also with epoxy and epoxy fillets. I observed that the yoke pieces are set at right angles to the forward edge of the stock. This facilitates the movement of the rudder lines which pass through internal 15 mm plastic tubes. The aft ends of the tubes are attached to the inner surface of the transom by means of blocks of wood suitably shaped to receive them.

Roamer Dinghy ‘Laputa’

If you want to see a bit of craftsmanship in a boat, have a look at Whizzkiddzz’s YouTube Video which has an assembly of photos taken during the building of a Roamer Dinghy. The video also features a song, ‘Jesus was a Cross Maker’, written by Judee Sill. (See link below)


Whizzkiddzz is actually Andrew Guest who was in contact with me when he built ‘Laputa’.


Andrew knew that I had owned the Roamer ‘Harriott’ and he wanted details of my boat so that he could copy some of her features, notably the tabernacle and rigging arrangements. He sent me photos of his dinghy for publishing at my old Small Sailboats website; three of them are reproduced here.


Note

Andrew Guest’s Email Address: andrewguest@hotmail.com


Link

Andrew's Video 'dinghy cruising boat open boat project roamer,plans, dvd, tent patterns'

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_Flxq2Lbc8

Roamer Dinghy

http://bills-log.blogspot.com/2009/12/roamer-dinghy.html

Roamer Dinghy Photos

http://bills-log.blogspot.com/2010/03/roamer-dinghy-photos.html

Roamer Interlude

http://bills-log.blogspot.com/2010/03/roamer-interlude.html

Judee Sill

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Judee_Sill

Laputa

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laputa

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 56

Before spring clean

After spring clean

British Summer Time began on Sunday 27th March when we put our clocks forward one hour. That gave a distinct advantage for boatbuilding because there was an additional hour into the evening when I could see what’s what. I’ve certainly felt the benefit over the last week since moving the hands of the clock forward. Officially it’s summer time, but for me it’s been a day of spring cleaning in the garage. I can now see the boat, because rubbish that had accumulated during the winter has been sorted and ditched into respective bins: paper, card, and metal in the recycling bin; used vinyl gloves, old rags, resin-encased milk cartons in the non-recycling bin; wood shavings and small offcuts in the green waste bin.
I also found time for applying a second coat of resin to the wooden parts of the keel.


Tomorrow I’m not going to have a great deal of time for working on the boat and what to do next has yet to be decided. I cannot drill holes into the starboard keel weight because I cannot be sure what fixtures will be used to attach it to the keel. Ron Cannings has agreed to make the parts, and when he has done so, I can drill the holes with confidence. The rudder yoke and the keel box are the most likely candidates for my immediate attention. I shall need warm, dry weather for shaping and attaching the bottom of the boat. I shall not be able to fit the decks until all the internal parts have been made and fixed in place.

Ocean Racing

Barcelona World Race Start


'Spartan', sailed by Chris Stanmore-Major, a British competitor in the Velux 5 Oceans Race


I’ve been following the fortunes of ocean racers competing in the Barcelona World Race and the Five Oceans Race. The former is a non-stop race around the world sailing Eco 60s, each yacht manned with a crew of two. The later is a race around the world for solo sailors starting at La Rochelle and finishing there after calling into Cape Town, Wellington, Punta del Este and Charleston. Racers are currently heading for Charleston on the 4th ocean sprint. Competition is intense, and after being at sea for seven days, only 43 miles separates the first from the last. Changeable weather off the Brazilian coast brings an element of unpredictability which means positions could change as one boat is favoured by a wind slant while another may be in calm. Brad van Liew, the veteran American sailor, has been victorious in the previous three sprints and currently leads the pack.


The Barcelona World Race has been a follow the leader affair with Jean-Pierre Dick and Loïck Peyron aboard ‘Verbac -Paprec’ leading the pack. They are on the last part of the race, expecting to arrive at Barcelona in time for breakfast tomorrow morning. Their lead of almost 250 miles over the second placed yacht, ‘Mapfre’, guarantees first place on the podium. Altogether fifteen teams entered yachts for the 25,200 miles race. ‘Renault Z.E,’ is currently in third position, 750 miles behind ‘Verbac-Paprec.



Links


Barcelona World Race

http://www.barcelonaworldrace.org/en/index.php


Velux Five Oceans Race

http://www.velux5oceans.com/#/news/41


Extreme Sailing

http://bills-log.blogspot.com/2011/02/extreme-sailing.html

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 55

Checking that the hole is at right angles

Notice the masking tape

Perseverance is the name of the game. I’m still bashing on with making the keel. I managed to drill another hole through the port keel weight. This time I took greater care to make the hole at right angles to the outer surfaces. Firstly I made the Black and Decker workbench absolutely level. Then I clamped the weight and keel onto the bench making sure they were level. As I drilled the second hole, I frequently checked that the bit was vertical. During the drilling process oil was splattering out of the hole; therefore I protected the wood with masking tape.


My next job was to scrape and sand the epoxy fillets in preparation for epoxying the fore and aft edges. Before I could apply the epoxy I had to protect the edges of the aluminium side pieces with masking tape. I’m glad I did, because when I came to brush the epoxy onto the wood, some of it went on the masking tape. I removed the tape two hours after applying the epoxy, before it had hardened. I had learnt never to leave masking tape until epoxy hardens, because getting it off becomes a difficult task.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 54

Fillet

Hole through port keel weight

Besides doing several other things today, unrelated to boat building, I managed to tidy yesterday’s filleting and do the epoxy fillets on the trailing edge of the keel.


I also drilled the first hole for the port ballast retaining pin. The designer of the boat recommended that I should drill slowly and frequently add oil to the hole to prevent shreds of lead from binding on the edge of the hole. The addition of oil made all the difference from being a success to being a failure. There was no inclination for the laminations to part. To pinpoint the exact spot for drilling the hole, I held my plywood template onto the side of the weight. To make sure there would be a clean cut hole through the underneath side, I put the keel weight on a piece of hardboard, into which I allowed the bit to enter.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 53

Three photos show how I have progressed with making the keel. The top photo illustrates the cable and tension block; the middle one shows the bottom of the keel inverted and how the cable is fixed to it with a screw, and the third one lets you see the epoxy fillet between the aluminium and the leading edge. If you examine the third photo very carefully, you’ll see that the cable has been epoxied into the groove at the lower end of the keel. It is also epoxied along the bottom. That means the keel should never part from the cable.


All I need to do to finish the keel is to make fillets on the aft edge, sand all the wooden parts and epoxy them, fair the lead weights, drill holes through them for the locating pins and holes for the locking pins; finally paint everything, except the aluminium pieces.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 52

There are days when progress is negligible, but what I achieved this morning was worth doing. I sanded the second piece of wood that I added to the keel yesterday, and I prepared both pieces for a little bit of shaping and filling with epoxy resin putty. A small amount of fairing at the edges of the aluminium will bring benefits by lessening drag when the boat is sailing.


I took pains to clean the metal surfaces thoroughly by removing as much Sellotape from the edges of the aluminium as I could with my fingernails and fingertips. Then I further cleaned the surfaces with Acetone soaked in absorbent paper. I discovered that Acetone was an effective solvent for dissolving gunge left on the aluminium after I peeled off the Sellotape which I had placed there to protect the metal when attaching the wooden pieces with epoxy. I also discovered that Acetone could dissolve patches of Evo-stik that I had unintentionally allowed to adhere to the surfaces.


After visiting a friend in hospital this afternoon, I went to Boatacs, a chandler’s at Thorpe Bay, but I found the shop was no longer in business. People at the nearby TCS chandlery told me that Boatacs at Westcliffe-on-Sea were trading as usual. Parking there was difficult, which meant I had to carry the keel some distance. I wanted to have a length of Bowden cable made with eye splices at both ends to fit the keel. As I explained in yesterday’s post, this piece of flexible stainless steel wire will be attached to the bottom of the keel, and it will travel upwards in a groove along the leading edge before passing over a pulley at the front of the coaming where it will be clipped onto a block purchase for raising of lowering the keel. If it is correctly made to length, the cable will snugly fit into the groove on the forward edge of the keel, so that the top eye splice will hook around a retaining screw on the aft side a few inches from the top. A small chock will be placed between the wire and the upper surface of the keel to tension the wire, so that it will not get in the way when the keel is inserted into or removed from the keel box.


Such jobs, although small in themselves, can take time and effort, but that’s part and parcel of building a boat.


Links


Boatacs Chandlers
http://www.touchsouthend.com/business/list/bid/4410325


TCS Chandlery
http://www.tcschandlery.co.uk/

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 51

Top groove

Aft piece added

I can see the end in sight for building the keel. Today I added the aft piece and cut the remainder of the groove - that’s over the top and under the bottom of the keel. The Bowden cable will be epoxied into the groove under the keel and up the leading edge for 10 inches. That will well and truly secure the cable so that the keel can be lifted or lowered without fear of losing it.


All that remains to be done to complete the keel will be to add a small amount of epoxy fairing to both of the wooden pieces where they meet the aluminium. This will streamline them and increase the strength of the bond joining them to the keel.


I shall have to finish fairing the lead weights and drill holes through them. I shall also have to have a Bowden cable with talurits at both ends made to the length required. Finally, the keel will be painted, apart from the aluminium which I shall polish with wax.

Building 'Sharpy' Part 50

Continuing with the keel, I made the leading edge from hardwood - in fact, a piece of skirting board from Homebase. The tricky bit was cutting a semicircular groove along the front where the sides converge to form a ‘v’ section. The piece of wood was thinner than shown on the plans, but I shall fill the gaps either side with epoxy putty. Instead of screwing this piece of wood to the plywood between the aluminium pieces, I nailed it with bronze nails. Before doing so, I epoxied both surfaces and protected the outside of the aluminium pieces from epoxy dribbles with Sellotape.


Make a note that I first cut the groove with a small chisel and shaped it into a semicircular section with a small half-round file and a piece of sandpaper rolled around a drill bit. After I had made the groove I fashioned the ‘v’ section with a hand plane.


Shaping and fixing the aft edge of the keel piece should be easier than the forward one, because it does not have a groove. The semicircular groove on the leading edge is to accommodate a 2 millimetre Bowden cable which takes the weight of the keel and runs over a pulley housed in a bracket at the front of the coaming. The lower end of the cable is attached about 2 inches from the bottom of the keel on the aft side and it runs through a groove under the bottom of the keel and up the leading edge. The upper end of the cable is clipped to a double fiddle block operated with a 6 millimetre rope that passes through a jam cleat on the deck. The crew can hoist of lower the keel by pulling or easing the keel haul rope. For safety reasons the keel is tied down with a line that is threaded through three small holes that pass through the keel near the upper edge.

No Boatbuilding this Sunday

Rubbish at an annex of The Granary

Pots at the garden centre

Polyanthus at the garden centre

Sunday for me is a special day, but it is not sacrosanct, i.e., it is not sacred - a day set aside exclusively for the worship of God. What’s special about Sunday is that it is a time when Christians come together to worship God, to praise Him, to give thanks for His merciful love and to pray for the wellbeing of those who are experiencing difficult times - those in need, the sick, the poor and the destitute. It is a time when Christians fellowship with one another, a time for sharing and getting to know each other better, not just as acquaintances or nominal members of a church, but as members God’s family. The spiritual relationship between one another through the power of the Holy Spirit has to be experienced before it can be appreciated. Those who are embraced by the bond created by Christ Jesus through His sacrifice on the cross are truly blessed.


There is only one real purpose for the Christian and that is to love Jesus and glorify God for ever* which is the same thing. By loving Jesus you give glory to His Father.


Now today, I have rested from boatbuilding, not because it is a Sunday, but because I’ve had enough of sticking bits of lead together to make keel weights for ‘Sharpy’, a roof rack keel boat I am slowly building.


Instead of setting up my workbench by the garage on this fine sunny afternoon, I took my wife to Battlesbridge for a visit to The Granary, which is in fact an old mill house where there are numerous antique shops. She wanted to see a guy named Wally who restores old photographs, and a really clever chap he is. From faint, torn and tattered images he can transform them into brand new photos resembling the pristine originals. (That reminds me of what Jesus does by transforming sinful people into persons resembling Adam before he fell from grace. The real transformation comes when they are made in the image of Christ. All men are in the image of God, but before rebirth by the power of the Holy Spirit they are badly flawed, unable to help themselves.)


Before we made our way home we called into an adjoining place where there are for sale, many weird objects which I would define as rubbish or garbage. Whatever people see in buying such junk I cannot imagine. We also called into Battlesbridge Mills Garden Centre which has been revamped with fresh displays of flowers, shrubs, trees and a collection of ceramic pots suitable for large plants.


Links

*Westminster Shorter Catechism

http://www.reformed.org/documents/WSC.html

Building 'Sharpy' Part 49

I accomplished two things today: I prepared the keel for pieces of hardwood that will be screwed and glued to the leading and aft edges, and I faired the lead weights in preparation for adding some sort of fairing, possibly plastic padding as is used on car repairs.


Surprisingly, the most difficult task was removing a few spots of Evo-stik that had adhered to the outside surfaces of the keel. The best solution I found was to scrape the hardened Evo-stik with a credit card. I removed some of the glue with my fingernails, but the thinner, harder patches were nigh impossible to get off.


Derek’s keel fits pretty snugly into the keel box and to enable it to move easily he waxes the keel. I shall try to achieve a snug fit, but not too tight a fit. If there is too much slop in the box the keel could slam and I don’t want that to happen when the boat is on the run, or when there is very little wind, as can be the case if there is some movement of the sea.


I suppose I’m now able to build the keel box because I know the exact dimensions of the keel. In fact, it is as per plan, i.e., 15 mm thick and 10 inches wide. I could also build the leading and aft edges of the keel. I never finished the rudder, which requires its yoke. So there are a few small wooden parts to make before I get back building the hull.

P.S. If you are very observant you will notice that the keel weights are on the wrong sides of the keel. The thinner of the two, should be on the port side, but I have not yet attached them, or drilled holes through the weights for doing it.

Building 'Sharpy' Part 48

The starboard weight is thicker than the port one

Final clamping of both weights

By working most of the day at laminating the remainder of the keel pieces, I completed both weights. The starboard one weighs 36 lbs and the port one weighs 32 lbs. Both marginally weigh less than shown on the plans, but by the time I have faired and shaped them with an application of suitable filler, they will weigh very nearly what they should.


I shall have to research what filler will be best. Perhaps it should be slightly flexible and certainly adhesive to lead. If the keel comes into contact with the ground when sailing, inevitably it will be subjected to abrasion; therefore whatever I choose for fairing the weights, it must be durable and semi-protective. I may consider encapsulating the weights in GRP, but that may not be practicable because of the sharp edges. I would also have the problem of completely sealing the edges of the holes through which the retaining pins pass. The best solution would be to encase them with stainless steel, but how that could be done without melting the lead when welding the steel, I do not know.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 47

Ready to bond

A total of 5 hours working on the keel weights enabled me to cut 5 extra lead pieces, clean all the remaining bits with white spirit plus assemble and bond 20 of them. Bonding 20 pieces actually entails applying Evo-stik to 38 surfaces!

Retaining pin and nut (Not to scale)

Another 27 pieces have to be added, to complete the starboard weight, and possibly 4more pieces will be needed for the port weight. Another two sessions could see the weights bonded. I shall have to do a bit of shaping and filling to make them smooth. Then will come the tricky bit of drilling through them to accommodate the two transverse retaining pins. When the starboard weight is slotted onto the retaining pins, vertical locking pins can pass through holes drilled from the top of the starboard weight so that the locking pins can also pass through holes in the transverse pins.

Locking pin (Not to scale - the retaining pin is the larger of the two)

The reason for having two keel weights is for ease of transporting them from the car to the boat. The boat is laid on her port side so that the keel can be partially pushed into the keel box, then she can be supported by her keel so as to be ready for slotting the starboard weight onto the retaining pins. When that’s been done, locking pins are pushed home. When not in use the locking pins are retained in their holes by a thin flexible cord which is attached to the aft end of the weight. This cord sits in a fore and aft channel along the top of the weight.


Note


I am comforted by the fact that Ron Cannings has said he can make the stainless steel parts for ‘Sharpy’. He hopes to start on them in about three week’s time. His workshop is at Rice and Coles, Burnham-on-Crouch where ‘Ladybird’ is currently laid up.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 46

I didn’t get a great deal done today on building the boat, but I managed to cut six more pieces of lead for the keel weights. I also checked the dimensions of the port weight and weighed it.


The port weight currently consists of 36 pieces laminated together with Evo-stik and it weighs 29.5 lbs. According the building plan the weight should be 33 lbs, which means there is a shortfall of 3.5 lbs; therefore I would need to add another 4 pieces. A thickness of 40 laminates would equal almost 57 mm - the amount shown on the plans for the part of the ballast retaining pin that would clamp the weight to the keel.



It seems to me that I shall need to add 4 extra pieces of lead to the port weight.


From the above findings the actual thickness of the lead flashing is 1.44 millimetres and as the thickness of the starboard weight will need to be 67 millimetres I shall require a total of 47 pieces to make it. One piece of lead weighs 0.8194444 lbs, which means the weight of the starboard ballast weight would be 38.5 lbs, nearly the 40 lbs as shown on the plan.


I have available a total of 46 unused pieces. In order to finish both the port and starboard weights I shall have to cut another 5 pieces. I’m hoping I shall have enough lead flashing to finish the weights.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 45

Removing labels with white spirit

I’m glad I have not been able to work the whole day, because laminating the keel weights in small doses is the right way to tackle the job. Spreading Evo-stik evenly on lead surfaces and waiting for them to dry before squeezing parts together is not appealing to me. Being out of doors in fine weather makes the task tolerable. I would not want to do the laminating inside, because of the overpowering stench of the glue.


This afternoon I stuck several more pieces together. In fact, I did enough to finish laminating the smaller of the two weights, i.e., the one that will be permanently attached to the port side of the drop keel. I needed to make the thickness equal to 2 and 3/16 of an inch. I was surprised by the amazing amount of Evo-stik required to bond the lead parts. Altogether, inclusive of laminating two pieces of aluminium either side of the plywood core of the keel, I have used just over two 500 ml cans of the adhesive, each costing £11.99. Today I bought two more cans; therefore in total I have spent £47.96. Information on the can stipulates that the coverage should be 2.8 m2.

The port keel weight

Before I could begin joining parts together I had to clean off 4 of them because they had sticky labelling attached to them. I discovered that the labels would come off by applying white spirit, then vigorously rubbing the surfaces with kitchen roll. I removed a few recalcitrant pieces with a wooden spatula. A metal scraper would have damaged the surfaces of the lead.


I can’t say I’m looking forward to making the starboard weight, but a boat does no build herself, and if I am to achieve my objective, I have to press on with each stage of the building process, whether pleasurable or otherwise.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 44

Glued surfaces

Well, I’m back on the job again, continuing with making the keel weights. I first did some experiments to test laminating lead with epoxy and drilling through lead. Before gluing four offcuts together I cleaned them with white spirit. I shall try tearing them apart tomorrow after they have been clamped together for 24 hours.


To test my Black and Decker battery operated drill, I bored a hole through an offcut of lead. At slow speed it cut a clean hole through the lead with little resistance, which means I shouldn’t have a problem when it comes to drilling through the assembled keel weights, but as I don’t have a bench drill, I’ll need to take great care that both holes for the retaining pins are at right angles to the outer and inner surfaces of the weights.

Joined in pairs

Having tested joining offcuts of lead with Evo-stik I felt confident to go ahead with laminating the actual keel weights. I started by laminating 12 pieces together. These I lightly clamped and set aside until I can continue adding more pieces. I noted that their total thickness was approximately 18 millimetres, which confirmed that individually they were 1.5 millimetres thick. I now know that I shall need at least 80 pieces to make the required combined thickness of the lead weights. Derek Munnion, the designer of the boat, laminated 96 of them, so somewhere there is a discrepancy of 16 pieces, and as each piece weighs about 13 oz my keel would be 13 lbs lighter than his. I’ll have to see what actually happens when they have been made to the correct dimensions. Perhaps my lead flashing is slightly thicker than Derek’s.

Twelve pieces laminated together


Incidentally, I’ve made contact with the chap who may be able to make the stainless steel parts for the keel. He is now in possession of photos of the drawings, and I await what he has to say.

Active Day with the Grandchildren

At 0550 the sound of tiny voices could be heard coming from the back bedroom. Breakfast was on the table at 0645. A curry for the church meal had been cooked the day before and chocolate cake was soon being baked in the oven. The youngsters shared a bath together at 0800. Dressed in their new clothes they played in the lounge until it was time to leave. At 1015 we strapped them into their seats and loaded the car with gear. A place for the curry was found on the floor because there was no room in the boot.



Miraculously all of the traffic lights were in our favour, allowing us to arrive at the church with five minutes to spare before the service began. A visiting preacher from Caring for Life illustrated the sterling work being done in Leeds with the homeless, the mentally ill, abused people, and those with learning difficulties.


Lunch was on the table by 1300, and what feast there was too! My wife’s curry was irresistible. People very quickly demolished it, with no chance of a second helping.



About mid-afternoon we left the church and made our way to my daughter’s place to collect the boy’s tricycles. Then we set off to the park where the boys sped along paths before playing on swings, slides and climbing frames.


We were back at my daughter’s for tea by 1730; then the boys played again and watched a film. My wife dressed them in pyjamas to be ready for bed at 2000.


We didn’t arrive home until 2230, and since then I’ve been occupied writing this Blog!

Link


Caring for Life

http://www.caringforlife.co.uk/index.html