Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Anchoring ‘Minnow’ or any Paradox

The easiest way to set or weigh an anchor with a Paradox is to do it while standing in the cabin with the upper part of your body wedged in the hatchway. There you are safe and secure. Do not try going on the foredeck to anchor. It can be done, but I do not recommend it.

To anchor the boat you select the amount of warp and chain you require, and tie the warp to an eye that is permanently fixed to an anchor bridle. The latter is a line attached to both cleats at the bow, from where it passes along the starboard side deck, and it is made fast to the starboard aft cleat.

Having tied the warp to the eye, you lower the anchor, chain and the selected length of warp over the starboard side of the boat, taking care not to drop the chain on the anchor. As the boat drifts away, you pay out the bridle until it becomes taught by the pull of the warp. You are now anchored. Secure the tail end of the bridle to the aft cleat. Tidy any unused warp by flaking it into a bucket which can be lashed to the stern deck.

If you want to increase the length of the warp, first pull on the bridle until the eye is within reach. Undo the warp and payout more of it. When the required amount has been let out, tie the warp to the eye; ease the bridle until the warp and bridle take the strain.

To retrieve the anchor or shorten the warp, reverse the procedure.

When retrieving the anchor, you can safely lean over the side of the boat to clean off weed or mud by scrubbing things with a small brush while they are still in the water. A toilet brush is ideal for the job. As you haul in the warp and chain you flake them into a large bucket or waterproof plastic container. The whole lot, including the anchor is pushed forward on the cabin floor. By doing it this way, the cabin can be kept fairly clean. Later, if you want to do a better job, you can do it at your leisure.
When you are hauling in the anchor, the boat usually stays broadside to the current or wind – sometimes from the starboard quarter. Take care not to get the warp trapped between the rudder and the transom.


Paul Mullings said...

Hi Bill, just an idea to add to your system for anchoring . In place of your eye,I use a snap shackle which makes it very easy to insert and remove the anchor rode from the bow/stern line.
Summer has been cursed with high winds so sailing days have been few, hopefully some big fat anticyclones will finally make their way across the Tasman soon!!
Re.the SCAMP, I would dearly love one but fear my boatbuilding skills are more than somewhat lacking. JW made a great job of the one we sailed last week...the smile is still on my face ;)

William Serjeant said...

Thanks Paul,

I can see the advantage of a good quality snap shackle.

Would John build a SCAMP for you?

How much would he charge for the basic unfinished boat, including spars and offset plate, ready for finishing?


Paul Mullings said...

John built this particular SCAMP for a special friend and in his own words "I am a designer first and a boatbuilder when necessary!" I am still very happy with my Whiting 16 which continues to fulfil my immediate requirements......if only the weather gods would come to the party :(

Paul Mullings said...

A GRP SCAMP is now available here http://www.ghboats.com/2013/08/scamp-options/

Unknown said...

Excellent Post Bill!!! Thanks for all the anchoring tips. I have been considering doing something very similar and now , I will! :-)

Paradox "Scout"