The Cruise – Part 18
Tuesday 20th May
Al lent me detailed charts of the Islands. I had been relying on the diagrams in Reeds Nautical Almanac and the electronic charts in my Lowrance GPS, but the latter are rather too detailed to be of much use in this location because of clutter on such a small window. Finding the way over the shallows between Tresco and Samson was made easier with Al's charts. We had a beat to windward in a fresh wind with the current helping us at first, but by the time we were to the west of St. Mary's the current was ebbing to the west and with the south east wind, making progress was slow. Our intention had been to visit the islands of Gugh and St. Agnes which are joined together by an isthmus of sand at low water, but after consulting one another on the VHF we though it more prudent to sail to Hugh Town, the main harbour of St. Mary's.
Tacking between the boats and buoys in the harbour was quite taxing, as there was no room for error, but the water was smooth, which helped because the boats carried their way. Both boats beached simultaneously as two interested people had noted our arrival and were waiting to satisfy their curiosity. They turned out to be Keith and Jack from a huge ketch beached with the aid of legs; it happens that the splendid vessel is used for trading between the Scillies and the mainland. Keith is a sailmaker.
We went to the Harbour Master's Office, but the man in question was not there; however we discovered that a person nearby was his assistant. He informed us that staying in the harbour would cost £18.00 a day per boat, plus the fact that we would not be allowed to beach them. Getting ashore with a boatman would incur more expense; we therefore moved to Porthloo beach were we set them high and dry above the boulders on a sandy incline.
When the evening meal was finished we had a walk along a narrow road to the telegraph tower and the old Coast Guard base. More visitors continued to examine our boats, including two from a stylish sloop anchored in the same bay, and a lady named Joan who owns a Tideway dinghy.
Wednesday 21st May
We had the whole day before us for exploring St. Mary's; little did we know that the rain foreast for the evening would arrive early in the afternoon.
There was a leisurely start as our boats dried out on Porthloo Beach and it wasn't until 0945 that we showed any sign of action. We ambled towards Hugh Town where we had planned to board the red open-top bus for a grand tour of the Island. At the time of departure around mid-morning the bus was full of elderly people, some with knapsacks, two or three with binoculars, and most with cameras. Our driver, who was also the commentator and owner of the bus, had a great sense of humour which helped liven up the dull historical facts of who owned the Islands and how they were governed in 1832 when the Goldophin family relinquished government to a Select Vestry. In more recent times Harold Wilson, the then Labour Prime Minister, owned a bungalow on St. Mary's which he frequently visited; indeed his wife continues to do so. At the end of a long decline with Alzheimer while being nursed at a local nursing home Lord Wilson died and he was buried in the graveyard of Old Town.
Cafes are hard to resist, and after our bus tour we found the Delicatessen cafe suited our pockets. Suitably refreshed, it was more shopping at the Co-op before returning to the boats for lunch and an ice cream on the way.
Early afternoon rain brought disappointment, as we did not fancy 'Walking in the Rain'; instead we passed the time in our hermetically sealed boats – that's apart from the open ventilation system designed for hotter climes!
Drying out our boats on the beach was debatable because of the surge, but in the end we elected to do so, which wasn't as bad as it might have been. We observed that the sandy beach had changed shape by becoming steeper than yesterday; therefore we waited for a full hour-and-a-half before letting them take the ground on less of an incline further out, but there were a few small boulders that needed missing.
Thursday 22nd May
Rain and showers were forecast, but the whole day was sunny and warm. Al and I made an early start at walking to the Longstone Heritage Centre where we hoped to find a famous small boat that had sailed across the Atlantic and perhaps further, but she was not there because the owner had fulfilled his promise and sailed her further still to his home port. Neither of us could remember the name of the boat or the name of the owner whom we believed was Scandinavian. Perhaps the name of the double-ender in ship's lifeboat style was 'Solvig', which rings a bell. No doubt a reader of this blog will know the facts. I remember sending a photo of the boat to the Microcruising Yahoo group about three years ago. Coffee and cake at the Centre made up for our disappointment. Displays of photographs showing the aftermath of a few of the many shipwrecks on the Scillies were sobering and underlined our respect for the sea.
Close to the Heritage Centre are the Carreg Dhu Gardens, although not expansive, they are intimate with displays of sub-tropical plants and trees brought there, planted and natured over several years. Nearby there's a Nature Trail that follows a stream to Porth Hellick on the south west coast of St. Mary's. Bird life in that area is prolific and I was encouraged to see and hear song thrushes which are rare in Essex where I live. The coastal cliff scenery in this area, including Peninnis Head, is spectacular; huge rocks pilled upon each other and interlocked resembling gigantic sculptures of the Henry Moore type, rounded and shaped into weird forms by the elements; colourful lichen, grasses and numerous flowers delight the eye. We found the local police and coastguards were engaged in a mock missing person search with youngsters from the Island's school. Building relationships with youth in this way is highly commendable.
At the Old Town Cafe we fortified ourselves with yet another cream tea which almost reached the high standard of the Bryher Cafe.
Back at the boats we found man passionately interested in them who took many photographs. He had seen us when we tacked into Hugh Town Harbour and had subsequently discovered photos of the boats on the Library computer.
Before we knew it, the time arrived for us to assist in floating the boats by tugging at their anchor lines when waves surged onto the beach. Sailing to New Grimsby at Tresco was a simple downwind run. There we anchored in the lee, fairly close to the shore, so as to dry out briefly before re-floating on the rising tide next morning.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Monday, May 19, 2008
The Cruise - Part 17
The Cruise – Part 17
Sunday 18th May
Having eaten breakfast we set off at 0830 under full sail for the island of Tresco. The drizzle wasn't too off-putting and the force four wind was more than ample to push us along with the current at a good rate of knots. From the south side of The Garrison, which is a walled fortification containing forts built in 1901, we shaped a course north towards Tresco. As we approached the saddle shaped uninhabited island of Samson we could make out the beacons marking the pass between it and Crow Point at the southern end of Tresco. Getting over the shallows on a falling tide was just possible, with both boats scraping their rudders on the golden sand below.
The sheltered area of water between the island of Brhyer and Tresco is a favorite spot for visiting yachts, but apart from our Paradoxes there was only one yacht at a mooring flying a red ensign indicating the owner was aboard. By the time we beached our boats on the gently shelving beach at New Grimsby the sun was shining. We left them there at anchor for a walk around the southern end of the island where the Abbey gardens attract holiday makers. Close by there's the Heliport, but no flights are allowed on a Sunday. We saw sandmartins which look like swallows and heard the beautiful song of a thrush - the bird itself was so well camouflaged we failed to see it.
After lunch we anchored our boats with ropes attached to the crown of the anchors for retrieval from the beach; thus the boats would be kept away from the beach on the rising tide. Then we walked along a footpath close to the shore to Cromwell's Castle built in the 17th century overlooking the northern end of the Tresco Channel. From the top of the Castle there's a magnificent view overlooking Brhyer and Samson. Higher still from King Charles's Castle the view is stunning with panoramic views towards the Bishop Rock lighthouse, in fact most of the islands and outcrops from the north, westwards and to the south, can be seen. The colours of the sea were like those of a tropical island, so clear the areas of rock, sand and weed were visible.
Back at the boat I had a snooze before cooking a stir-fry. Later, we re-anchored our boats so that they would remain afloat to give us options the following morning.
Monday 19th May
At 0815 there was a falling tide, but we needed water and to use the shore toilets at New Grimsby; therefore we briefly beached our boats to carry out our tasks. Back afloat at anchor I used the chance to tend to my personal hygiene – an important matter when cruising for days at a time without access to showers or a bath.
While making the porridge for breakfast the Gaz for the stove ran out and needed replacing with a new 190 gram canister. It had lasted 8 days which was very good – mostly they last a week.
Around 0930 we arrived at the sandy beach by Anneka's Quay on the island of Brhyer after a sail downwind lasting only 10 minutes. I ran 'Faith' straight onto the beach with reduced sail and took the anchor to secure her in readiness for when she would float again in 4 hours.
Al and I set out for a walk around the Island in a clockwise direction. Moving south to begin with, we took the path around the shoreline below Samsom Hill where there are ancient tombs and chambered cairns. Continuing around rocky, weather worn outcrops like those found on Dartmoor, we found our way to the Island Hotel in time for morning coffee. The setting was quite sumptuous, obviously designer styled and the lounge was adorned with oil paintings; naturally, our discussion revolved around the subjects of the Fine Arts and artists.
Suitably refreshed, we continued our saunter northwards high up on Shipman Head, where we had a magnificent view overlooking the many islands; directly below us, across from the rocky islet of Hangman Island, tethered to a visitor's buoy, there was an old, rakish ketch with at topmast and long bowsprit – a really characterful vessel having a straight stem and counter stern. Her ensign was the Welsh flag sporting a red dragon.
On our way back to the boats we stopped at a cafe in 'The Town' for cream teas, and they were the very best, the scones having been freshly baked for us.
When we returned to our boats they were awash on a lee shore, which didn't really present a problem, as it was easy to push them off and set a small amount of sail for working to windward while dropping the rudder. Out on the water things were a little more challenging because the wind freshened and there wasn't a lot of room for maneuvering. The sandbanks and moored vessels made things awkward, but after a short battle with the wind and tide we re-anchored in the shallows of New Grimsby, Tresco. There we spent a relaxing afternoon after our morning exertions. I once again cleaned the interior of the boat, especially making sure there was no trace of sand in her bilges.
For a quiet night we shifted our boats south to a more protected position from the easterly wind, and Al elected to beach his boat, whereas I remained afloat.
Sunday 18th May
Having eaten breakfast we set off at 0830 under full sail for the island of Tresco. The drizzle wasn't too off-putting and the force four wind was more than ample to push us along with the current at a good rate of knots. From the south side of The Garrison, which is a walled fortification containing forts built in 1901, we shaped a course north towards Tresco. As we approached the saddle shaped uninhabited island of Samson we could make out the beacons marking the pass between it and Crow Point at the southern end of Tresco. Getting over the shallows on a falling tide was just possible, with both boats scraping their rudders on the golden sand below.
The sheltered area of water between the island of Brhyer and Tresco is a favorite spot for visiting yachts, but apart from our Paradoxes there was only one yacht at a mooring flying a red ensign indicating the owner was aboard. By the time we beached our boats on the gently shelving beach at New Grimsby the sun was shining. We left them there at anchor for a walk around the southern end of the island where the Abbey gardens attract holiday makers. Close by there's the Heliport, but no flights are allowed on a Sunday. We saw sandmartins which look like swallows and heard the beautiful song of a thrush - the bird itself was so well camouflaged we failed to see it.
After lunch we anchored our boats with ropes attached to the crown of the anchors for retrieval from the beach; thus the boats would be kept away from the beach on the rising tide. Then we walked along a footpath close to the shore to Cromwell's Castle built in the 17th century overlooking the northern end of the Tresco Channel. From the top of the Castle there's a magnificent view overlooking Brhyer and Samson. Higher still from King Charles's Castle the view is stunning with panoramic views towards the Bishop Rock lighthouse, in fact most of the islands and outcrops from the north, westwards and to the south, can be seen. The colours of the sea were like those of a tropical island, so clear the areas of rock, sand and weed were visible.
Back at the boat I had a snooze before cooking a stir-fry. Later, we re-anchored our boats so that they would remain afloat to give us options the following morning.
Monday 19th May
At 0815 there was a falling tide, but we needed water and to use the shore toilets at New Grimsby; therefore we briefly beached our boats to carry out our tasks. Back afloat at anchor I used the chance to tend to my personal hygiene – an important matter when cruising for days at a time without access to showers or a bath.
While making the porridge for breakfast the Gaz for the stove ran out and needed replacing with a new 190 gram canister. It had lasted 8 days which was very good – mostly they last a week.
Around 0930 we arrived at the sandy beach by Anneka's Quay on the island of Brhyer after a sail downwind lasting only 10 minutes. I ran 'Faith' straight onto the beach with reduced sail and took the anchor to secure her in readiness for when she would float again in 4 hours.
Al and I set out for a walk around the Island in a clockwise direction. Moving south to begin with, we took the path around the shoreline below Samsom Hill where there are ancient tombs and chambered cairns. Continuing around rocky, weather worn outcrops like those found on Dartmoor, we found our way to the Island Hotel in time for morning coffee. The setting was quite sumptuous, obviously designer styled and the lounge was adorned with oil paintings; naturally, our discussion revolved around the subjects of the Fine Arts and artists.
Suitably refreshed, we continued our saunter northwards high up on Shipman Head, where we had a magnificent view overlooking the many islands; directly below us, across from the rocky islet of Hangman Island, tethered to a visitor's buoy, there was an old, rakish ketch with at topmast and long bowsprit – a really characterful vessel having a straight stem and counter stern. Her ensign was the Welsh flag sporting a red dragon.
On our way back to the boats we stopped at a cafe in 'The Town' for cream teas, and they were the very best, the scones having been freshly baked for us.
When we returned to our boats they were awash on a lee shore, which didn't really present a problem, as it was easy to push them off and set a small amount of sail for working to windward while dropping the rudder. Out on the water things were a little more challenging because the wind freshened and there wasn't a lot of room for maneuvering. The sandbanks and moored vessels made things awkward, but after a short battle with the wind and tide we re-anchored in the shallows of New Grimsby, Tresco. There we spent a relaxing afternoon after our morning exertions. I once again cleaned the interior of the boat, especially making sure there was no trace of sand in her bilges.
For a quiet night we shifted our boats south to a more protected position from the easterly wind, and Al elected to beach his boat, whereas I remained afloat.
Sunday, May 18, 2008
The Cruise - Part 16
The Cruise – Part 16
Post script for Monday, 12th May.
John and Josephine Perry, distinguished members of the Dinghy Cruising Association, visited both Al's boat and mine late in the evening at the anchorage behind Plymouth Yacht Haven and we had an enjoyable time discussing things, mainly boats, as you can imagine.
Tuesday, 13th May
This was a day of total relaxation for me. I wanted to spend most of it ashore exploring the old haunts of Plymouth I knew when I was a lad. I started by taking the boat to Saint Anne's Battery Yacht Marina, but they would not give me a berth because all visitors were being cleared out in preparation for the Mini Tansat boats. As I was next to Sutton Harbour where the Artemis Transat boats had been berthed I called them on the VHF, but they also said there was no room for visitors. My only option was to return to Plymouth Yacht Haven and find a berth there. I was in urgent need of a shower and I wanted the facilities of a marina – water and electric.
When I had sorted myself and the boat I took the ferry to the Barbican and started my exploration by looking at the Mayflower Steps from which the Pilgrim Fathers departed for Newfoundland; I think their ship the 'Mayflower' set sail in 1620, or thereabouts. Then I explored the Hoe where the old Smeaton lighthouse stands and old cast iron canons face seawards.
The day was sunny, but very windy – too windy for sailing to Fowey, the intended next port of call. The panoramic view over The Sound brought back memories of when, at the age of 14, I sailed a small canvas canoe there while on holiday. I took the canoe I had built by train from Taunton and initially kept it in the corridor of my uncle Charles's house, but when the local sailing club saw me with the canoe they let me have one of their haul out moorings free of charge. Back in 1948 little thought was given to safety equipment, things like life jackets or internal buoyancy for boats and I wonder how I survived, because I didn't wear a life jacket or have buoyancy bags in my canoe. Incredibly the tiny boat had two foresails, a mainsail, a small keel, a plank across the cockpit for sitting out and an extension tiller for the rudder. I was inspired by Uffa Fox, that inventive sailor and designer who lived on the Isle of Wight and who used to cruise open sailing canoes across the Channel to France and back.
I treated myself to a meal at a pub and further explored the Barbican where there are excellent examples of genuine Tudor houses. I also visited the National Aquarium which was a bit of a let down; on the other hand there were some beautiful fish and shells on display. Before returning to the boat I enjoyed a real Devonshire ice cream mixed with cream.
That evening Al and I had a very long walk along the coastal path to Staddon Point, very high above The Sound. From there the view was stunning. We could see the River Tamar beyond Drake's Island, the River Plym, the Breakwater and beyond to Rame Head. A large group of canoeists where heading towards Mount Batten and they looked like tiny water beetles.
Wednesday 14th May
It was still a little too windy for sailing, but Al and I decided to go anyway as it would be downwind trip. At the western end of the Breakwater the seas were breaking and the ride was bumpy. A warship was heading into port, but we were well clear of her. Another navy vessel was out at sea on a firing exercise. By 0915 we were rounding Rame Head and a large yacht overhauled us. We had to be vigilant and take care with the steering to avoid gybing. In the first part of the passage to Loe Island our average spead was 5.6 knots with the tide helping us.
Running close to the Udder Rock buoy the seas became a bit tricky because of the shallows. At 1300 we rounded Punch Cross Rocks to enter Fowey Harbour; there the wind failed because of lee caused by the high land of Polruan. I started the engine and towed 'Little Jim' towards the Town Jetty, but only a cable form it the engine stopped for some unknown reason. By using our yulohs we reached a nearby buoy and rafted alongside one another for a cup of tea. Later the engine started with no problem and we tied up at the Jetty for a short walk through the Town.
Next we went up the River to find a quiet anchorage at Wiseman's Reach. Not long afterwards the Harbour Master's Assistant came to collect the dues, but he was called away for urgent business which may have been in connection with the arrival of a ship for a cargo of China clay. On the instructions of the Harbour Master's Assistant we tied up to mooring buoys to eliminate any possibility of dragging our anchors.
That evening there was a heavy downpour of rain with thunder and lightning.
Thursday 15th May
When I woke it was still raining and the bucket containing the anchor and warp that I had left on the stern deck was one third full of water! Because the wind was still from the east the opportunity of sailing to Falmouth could not be wasted; therefore, although it was raining, Al and I elected to go. I started the engine at 0800 and took 'Little Jim' in tow. By 0950 we were off Gribbin Head, on which there is a very visible day mark that looks like a gigantic barber's pole striped in red and white. Here we made sail with the wind and tide pushing us towards Dodman Point which is a very formidable headland towering above the waves. The race that runs to the south has brought about fatal tragedies, the most notable when a tripper boat from Falmouth was overwhelmed and all aboard were lost.
As our little boats kept a mile and half south of the Headland to avoid the race, the waves built up and we reduced sail, because the wind also increased in strength. Two yachts were approaching the headland, both motor sailing because they were going against the wind and the tide. We set a new course for a point south of St. Anthony Head, eight and a half miles away. Steering directly downwind required concentration, because the seas were doing their best to fling our boats too and fro and as the wave crests were breaking, we both closed our hatches to be secure and dry below. We communicated now and again by VHF on channel 8 - one of the four official ship to ship channels for the UK.
We made a very fast passage, arriving at St. Anthony Head at 1240, where we gybed to starboard to reach into Falmouth Roads; then on the wind we proceeded towards the picturesque village of St. Mawes. Using the engine we rounded Amsterdam Point at the entrance of the Percuil River and anchored in a delightful cove named St. Antony, which was surrounded by woodland. Pity the sun was absent, but the place still had great charm; a heron stood at the water's edge and there was a welcome peace, away form the cold east wind.
Later in the afternoon we rafted alongside and enthusiastically compared our boats in detail; there were slight differences with the sails and yulohs; mostly they were identical, apart from their colour. We also discussed a sailing plan for the next morning when we might opt for the challenge of rounding the Lizard Headland while attempting to reach Newlyn – a good starting point for a crossing to the Scilly Isles. We wonder if the easterlies will hold, because the weather pattern is slowly changing.
Friday 16th May
With the prospect of a 35 mile passage around the Lizard to Newlyn we took up our anchors at St. Anthony and motored out to sea, but there was very little wind; therefore we continued using the engine with 'Little Jim' in tow. Unknown to us we were to continue thus until arriving at the fishing port of Newlyn.
At 0835 we arrived at The Manacles which is an off-lying reef 9 miles south of Falmouth Harbour entrance. We had passed idyllic Porthallow nestling in a natural cleft within the high coastline. Because there was calm weather we took the inshore passage around the Lizard which gave us a superb view of the off-lying rocks. Running down the coast we ticked off salient marks such as the Black Head, Kennack Cove and Cadgwith, the latter identified by a church tower.
Rounding Lizard Point was painless, but a close inspection of the rocks that resemble the spiky spine of a primitive lizard it was plain to see that getting it wrong could be very painful indeed!
Drizzle towards the end of the passage had us down below with the hatches closed. As we approached Newlyn several fishing vessels overhauled us and showed us the way in. Just before 1630 we tied up to the first pontoon for smaller boats and we were greeted by the Harbour Master who at first wanted us to move our boats further into the harbour to leave room for fishing vessels, but he changed his mind and said we could stay where we were if we rafted alongside. His assistant only charged for one boat. The assistant and another port employee were very interested in our boats. They told us that the Town Council were considering allowing planning permission for a smart marina just down the coast.
Saturday 17th May
With a good forecast for the passage to the Scillies we set off at 0610. Once outside the harbour we picked up a fine northerly wind that had us racing along to Tater-du light and the Runnel Stone. That part of the coast is all rather fine with high granite cliffs. Many fishing and crab boats were about their business. The Runnel Stone south of Land's End marked the beginning of the crossing of 27 miles to St. Marys at the Isles of Scilly. Beam reaching all the way gave us a very fast trip. The 'Scillonian' passenger and freight vessel on her outward leg to the Islands reported us to Falmoth Coastguard who asked us to let them know when we arrived at our destination.
Entry through St. Mary's Sound was against the flood which meant our speed dropped from 5 knots to 2, and the final approach from the craggy Peninnis Head to sandy Porthressa Bay was on the wind, so I put the engine on for both boats to make it easy. There in clear water we chose a bottom free of weed for setting our anchors.. Totally protected from the northerly wind we rafted alongside and discussed the passage. The time was 1420 and only a few cumulus clouds hovered above the Islands. We resolved to let the boats dry out on the beach to allow us ashore for the evening.
Post script for Monday, 12th May.
John and Josephine Perry, distinguished members of the Dinghy Cruising Association, visited both Al's boat and mine late in the evening at the anchorage behind Plymouth Yacht Haven and we had an enjoyable time discussing things, mainly boats, as you can imagine.
Tuesday, 13th May
This was a day of total relaxation for me. I wanted to spend most of it ashore exploring the old haunts of Plymouth I knew when I was a lad. I started by taking the boat to Saint Anne's Battery Yacht Marina, but they would not give me a berth because all visitors were being cleared out in preparation for the Mini Tansat boats. As I was next to Sutton Harbour where the Artemis Transat boats had been berthed I called them on the VHF, but they also said there was no room for visitors. My only option was to return to Plymouth Yacht Haven and find a berth there. I was in urgent need of a shower and I wanted the facilities of a marina – water and electric.
When I had sorted myself and the boat I took the ferry to the Barbican and started my exploration by looking at the Mayflower Steps from which the Pilgrim Fathers departed for Newfoundland; I think their ship the 'Mayflower' set sail in 1620, or thereabouts. Then I explored the Hoe where the old Smeaton lighthouse stands and old cast iron canons face seawards.
The day was sunny, but very windy – too windy for sailing to Fowey, the intended next port of call. The panoramic view over The Sound brought back memories of when, at the age of 14, I sailed a small canvas canoe there while on holiday. I took the canoe I had built by train from Taunton and initially kept it in the corridor of my uncle Charles's house, but when the local sailing club saw me with the canoe they let me have one of their haul out moorings free of charge. Back in 1948 little thought was given to safety equipment, things like life jackets or internal buoyancy for boats and I wonder how I survived, because I didn't wear a life jacket or have buoyancy bags in my canoe. Incredibly the tiny boat had two foresails, a mainsail, a small keel, a plank across the cockpit for sitting out and an extension tiller for the rudder. I was inspired by Uffa Fox, that inventive sailor and designer who lived on the Isle of Wight and who used to cruise open sailing canoes across the Channel to France and back.
I treated myself to a meal at a pub and further explored the Barbican where there are excellent examples of genuine Tudor houses. I also visited the National Aquarium which was a bit of a let down; on the other hand there were some beautiful fish and shells on display. Before returning to the boat I enjoyed a real Devonshire ice cream mixed with cream.
That evening Al and I had a very long walk along the coastal path to Staddon Point, very high above The Sound. From there the view was stunning. We could see the River Tamar beyond Drake's Island, the River Plym, the Breakwater and beyond to Rame Head. A large group of canoeists where heading towards Mount Batten and they looked like tiny water beetles.
Wednesday 14th May
It was still a little too windy for sailing, but Al and I decided to go anyway as it would be downwind trip. At the western end of the Breakwater the seas were breaking and the ride was bumpy. A warship was heading into port, but we were well clear of her. Another navy vessel was out at sea on a firing exercise. By 0915 we were rounding Rame Head and a large yacht overhauled us. We had to be vigilant and take care with the steering to avoid gybing. In the first part of the passage to Loe Island our average spead was 5.6 knots with the tide helping us.
Running close to the Udder Rock buoy the seas became a bit tricky because of the shallows. At 1300 we rounded Punch Cross Rocks to enter Fowey Harbour; there the wind failed because of lee caused by the high land of Polruan. I started the engine and towed 'Little Jim' towards the Town Jetty, but only a cable form it the engine stopped for some unknown reason. By using our yulohs we reached a nearby buoy and rafted alongside one another for a cup of tea. Later the engine started with no problem and we tied up at the Jetty for a short walk through the Town.
Next we went up the River to find a quiet anchorage at Wiseman's Reach. Not long afterwards the Harbour Master's Assistant came to collect the dues, but he was called away for urgent business which may have been in connection with the arrival of a ship for a cargo of China clay. On the instructions of the Harbour Master's Assistant we tied up to mooring buoys to eliminate any possibility of dragging our anchors.
That evening there was a heavy downpour of rain with thunder and lightning.
Thursday 15th May
When I woke it was still raining and the bucket containing the anchor and warp that I had left on the stern deck was one third full of water! Because the wind was still from the east the opportunity of sailing to Falmouth could not be wasted; therefore, although it was raining, Al and I elected to go. I started the engine at 0800 and took 'Little Jim' in tow. By 0950 we were off Gribbin Head, on which there is a very visible day mark that looks like a gigantic barber's pole striped in red and white. Here we made sail with the wind and tide pushing us towards Dodman Point which is a very formidable headland towering above the waves. The race that runs to the south has brought about fatal tragedies, the most notable when a tripper boat from Falmouth was overwhelmed and all aboard were lost.
As our little boats kept a mile and half south of the Headland to avoid the race, the waves built up and we reduced sail, because the wind also increased in strength. Two yachts were approaching the headland, both motor sailing because they were going against the wind and the tide. We set a new course for a point south of St. Anthony Head, eight and a half miles away. Steering directly downwind required concentration, because the seas were doing their best to fling our boats too and fro and as the wave crests were breaking, we both closed our hatches to be secure and dry below. We communicated now and again by VHF on channel 8 - one of the four official ship to ship channels for the UK.
We made a very fast passage, arriving at St. Anthony Head at 1240, where we gybed to starboard to reach into Falmouth Roads; then on the wind we proceeded towards the picturesque village of St. Mawes. Using the engine we rounded Amsterdam Point at the entrance of the Percuil River and anchored in a delightful cove named St. Antony, which was surrounded by woodland. Pity the sun was absent, but the place still had great charm; a heron stood at the water's edge and there was a welcome peace, away form the cold east wind.
Later in the afternoon we rafted alongside and enthusiastically compared our boats in detail; there were slight differences with the sails and yulohs; mostly they were identical, apart from their colour. We also discussed a sailing plan for the next morning when we might opt for the challenge of rounding the Lizard Headland while attempting to reach Newlyn – a good starting point for a crossing to the Scilly Isles. We wonder if the easterlies will hold, because the weather pattern is slowly changing.
Friday 16th May
With the prospect of a 35 mile passage around the Lizard to Newlyn we took up our anchors at St. Anthony and motored out to sea, but there was very little wind; therefore we continued using the engine with 'Little Jim' in tow. Unknown to us we were to continue thus until arriving at the fishing port of Newlyn.
At 0835 we arrived at The Manacles which is an off-lying reef 9 miles south of Falmouth Harbour entrance. We had passed idyllic Porthallow nestling in a natural cleft within the high coastline. Because there was calm weather we took the inshore passage around the Lizard which gave us a superb view of the off-lying rocks. Running down the coast we ticked off salient marks such as the Black Head, Kennack Cove and Cadgwith, the latter identified by a church tower.
Rounding Lizard Point was painless, but a close inspection of the rocks that resemble the spiky spine of a primitive lizard it was plain to see that getting it wrong could be very painful indeed!
Drizzle towards the end of the passage had us down below with the hatches closed. As we approached Newlyn several fishing vessels overhauled us and showed us the way in. Just before 1630 we tied up to the first pontoon for smaller boats and we were greeted by the Harbour Master who at first wanted us to move our boats further into the harbour to leave room for fishing vessels, but he changed his mind and said we could stay where we were if we rafted alongside. His assistant only charged for one boat. The assistant and another port employee were very interested in our boats. They told us that the Town Council were considering allowing planning permission for a smart marina just down the coast.
Saturday 17th May
With a good forecast for the passage to the Scillies we set off at 0610. Once outside the harbour we picked up a fine northerly wind that had us racing along to Tater-du light and the Runnel Stone. That part of the coast is all rather fine with high granite cliffs. Many fishing and crab boats were about their business. The Runnel Stone south of Land's End marked the beginning of the crossing of 27 miles to St. Marys at the Isles of Scilly. Beam reaching all the way gave us a very fast trip. The 'Scillonian' passenger and freight vessel on her outward leg to the Islands reported us to Falmoth Coastguard who asked us to let them know when we arrived at our destination.
Entry through St. Mary's Sound was against the flood which meant our speed dropped from 5 knots to 2, and the final approach from the craggy Peninnis Head to sandy Porthressa Bay was on the wind, so I put the engine on for both boats to make it easy. There in clear water we chose a bottom free of weed for setting our anchors.. Totally protected from the northerly wind we rafted alongside and discussed the passage. The time was 1420 and only a few cumulus clouds hovered above the Islands. We resolved to let the boats dry out on the beach to allow us ashore for the evening.
Monday, May 12, 2008
The Cruise - Part 15
The Cruise – Part 15
Saturday 10th May
I had a really peaceful sleep last night with boat tucked in behind Plymouth Yacht Haven and I woke to a gorgeous morning, there being just a gentle wind from the east. When breakfast was finished I beached the boat to take a postcard to the mail box and to dispose of my rubbish, then I used the yuloh to move the boat to a nearby pontoon where there was access to a fuel bay, but I discovered that the Yacht Haven only sold diesel. Petrol was not crucial, as I had a full can of 5 litres which would last for quite a while.
The day couldn't be wasted; therefore I decided to have a sail for the joy of it, with no particular destination. What a fabulous time I had! When clear of the Mount Batten Pier I hardened in the sheet and made for the western end of the breakwater. Speed to windward was on average 3.5 knots and the boat consistently sailed herself. A German Auxilliary, A 1412, armed to the teeth lay on our course and temporarily she took our wind. A quarter of a mile further along we came very near the lighthouse that marks the end of the pier and slightly ahead to starboard was the picturesque seaside town of Cawsands with its golden sandy beach. The cliffs nearby are cloaked with trees that overhang the low granite shoreline.
The Channel tide lee-bowed 'Faith' which eliminated any leeway. With nothing in our path I simply relaxed and let the boat look after herself. When about 2 miles out to sea I counted 43 yachts sailing their various courses; several of them were racing - colourful too, with their spinnakers and cruising shoots. Undoubtedly, the sailing was the best of the cruise so far. When approximately 6 miles offshore I tacked to port to lay a course to the east of The Great Mewstone.
When well to the north east of the River Yealm I brought the boat round onto a run for the return passage, but on the way while on the starboard tack a crossing yacht on the port tack failed to give way, and I had to alter course to avoid a collision. I made sure the skipper of the other yacht, by the name of 'Anodyne' knew he had infringed the rule for which he apologized,
Back in The Sound I anchored near the north side of Drake's Island where there was a lee and after a snooze I set sail for Millbrook Lake to the north of Mount Edgcumbe where I anchored in 6 feet of water, and there I spent the night.
Sunday 11th May
This was the day I had been waiting for, and it more than lived up to my expectations. To begin with there was very little wind, so I started the engine and headed through The Bridge. There were a few other yachts on the water, but there was no indication that there would be anything special. I and hundreds, if not thousands knew the Artemis Transat yachts would be leaving Sutton Marina for the start of their single-hand race across the Atlantic, with the start at 1400.
By 0950 'Faith' was anchored off Cawsand beach along with many others who had already arrived. As yesterday, it was sun hat weather and there was a festive atmosphere with the local sailing and rowing clubs on the water testing their skills at racing.
Throughout the morning more and more yachts anchored in any available space they could find, and beyond Plymouth Breakwater surrounding the start line there were thousands of yachts sailing or motoring. Tripper boats full of spectators, motor yachts, dingies and even canoes criss-crossed tracks while taking photos of the competitors' yachts. One or two of them tried making trial starts, but it was an impossible situation. Helicopters hovered overhead, presumably filming the event. At the eastern end of the line one of Her Majesty's vessels was the platform for the start line flagstaff and at the western end there was a large black inflatable buoy advertising Artemis.
I joined the many vessels gilling around the line to take photos and I succeeded with some crackers which I'll make available on the Internet when my cruise is finished. I anticipated incorrectly that the majority of the racing yachts would exit by the western entrance, but instead they made a leg through the eastern passage which meant I did not have a close-up view of them racing. Nevertheless, the whole thing was a spectacle, the likes of which I have never seen before. As I was so engaged with watching the event I didn't realize the ebb had taken 'Faith' as far as Rame Head, and the wind fell light, which meant a slow sail back to Cawsands where I anchored for tea. There I encountered a problem with the bolt fixing the mainsheet tang which had worked loose, so that it fell out. I was grateful the mishap happened when the boat was at anchor.
I could not mend the fitting, because I needed epoxy which I did not have in my tool kt; therefore I started the engine and motored to the peaceful anchorage by Plymouth Yacht Haven where I stayed last Friday night. This was a convenient spot because it was near the slipway at Mountbatten where Al plans to launch his Paradox on Monday.
Monday 12th May
My priority was to link with Al Law when he launched his Paradox, 'Little Jim'; therefore mid-morning I took up the anchor and motored to the large public slipway at Mount Batten where I anchored to await his arrival. The boat needed a thorough clean on the inside and this was the opportunity to do it. As I finished the task Al arrived and I pulled alongside the slipway to anchor the boat in shallow water so that I could wade ashore and give a hand.
The launching was a painless affair and by 1315 we were anchored alongside one another back at the Plymouth Marina backwater that I felt was becoming my territory.
We had lunch and around 1500 we set out to beach our boats so that we could go in Al's car to John Perry's place where the trailer was to be stored. Unfortunately my anchor was caught under a cable; therefore Al went ahead to buy some petrol and deliver the trailer. A half-an-hour later I managed to free the anchor by contriving a hook from a pair of pliers attached to a piece of rope which I used to lift the cable and drop the anchor at the same time to drag it free.
I beached the boat and took the ferry to Plymouth for shopping and to post this blog. Al and I will probably spend tomorrow in the area before setting off westwards the next day.
Saturday 10th May
I had a really peaceful sleep last night with boat tucked in behind Plymouth Yacht Haven and I woke to a gorgeous morning, there being just a gentle wind from the east. When breakfast was finished I beached the boat to take a postcard to the mail box and to dispose of my rubbish, then I used the yuloh to move the boat to a nearby pontoon where there was access to a fuel bay, but I discovered that the Yacht Haven only sold diesel. Petrol was not crucial, as I had a full can of 5 litres which would last for quite a while.
The day couldn't be wasted; therefore I decided to have a sail for the joy of it, with no particular destination. What a fabulous time I had! When clear of the Mount Batten Pier I hardened in the sheet and made for the western end of the breakwater. Speed to windward was on average 3.5 knots and the boat consistently sailed herself. A German Auxilliary, A 1412, armed to the teeth lay on our course and temporarily she took our wind. A quarter of a mile further along we came very near the lighthouse that marks the end of the pier and slightly ahead to starboard was the picturesque seaside town of Cawsands with its golden sandy beach. The cliffs nearby are cloaked with trees that overhang the low granite shoreline.
The Channel tide lee-bowed 'Faith' which eliminated any leeway. With nothing in our path I simply relaxed and let the boat look after herself. When about 2 miles out to sea I counted 43 yachts sailing their various courses; several of them were racing - colourful too, with their spinnakers and cruising shoots. Undoubtedly, the sailing was the best of the cruise so far. When approximately 6 miles offshore I tacked to port to lay a course to the east of The Great Mewstone.
When well to the north east of the River Yealm I brought the boat round onto a run for the return passage, but on the way while on the starboard tack a crossing yacht on the port tack failed to give way, and I had to alter course to avoid a collision. I made sure the skipper of the other yacht, by the name of 'Anodyne' knew he had infringed the rule for which he apologized,
Back in The Sound I anchored near the north side of Drake's Island where there was a lee and after a snooze I set sail for Millbrook Lake to the north of Mount Edgcumbe where I anchored in 6 feet of water, and there I spent the night.
Sunday 11th May
This was the day I had been waiting for, and it more than lived up to my expectations. To begin with there was very little wind, so I started the engine and headed through The Bridge. There were a few other yachts on the water, but there was no indication that there would be anything special. I and hundreds, if not thousands knew the Artemis Transat yachts would be leaving Sutton Marina for the start of their single-hand race across the Atlantic, with the start at 1400.
By 0950 'Faith' was anchored off Cawsand beach along with many others who had already arrived. As yesterday, it was sun hat weather and there was a festive atmosphere with the local sailing and rowing clubs on the water testing their skills at racing.
Throughout the morning more and more yachts anchored in any available space they could find, and beyond Plymouth Breakwater surrounding the start line there were thousands of yachts sailing or motoring. Tripper boats full of spectators, motor yachts, dingies and even canoes criss-crossed tracks while taking photos of the competitors' yachts. One or two of them tried making trial starts, but it was an impossible situation. Helicopters hovered overhead, presumably filming the event. At the eastern end of the line one of Her Majesty's vessels was the platform for the start line flagstaff and at the western end there was a large black inflatable buoy advertising Artemis.
I joined the many vessels gilling around the line to take photos and I succeeded with some crackers which I'll make available on the Internet when my cruise is finished. I anticipated incorrectly that the majority of the racing yachts would exit by the western entrance, but instead they made a leg through the eastern passage which meant I did not have a close-up view of them racing. Nevertheless, the whole thing was a spectacle, the likes of which I have never seen before. As I was so engaged with watching the event I didn't realize the ebb had taken 'Faith' as far as Rame Head, and the wind fell light, which meant a slow sail back to Cawsands where I anchored for tea. There I encountered a problem with the bolt fixing the mainsheet tang which had worked loose, so that it fell out. I was grateful the mishap happened when the boat was at anchor.
I could not mend the fitting, because I needed epoxy which I did not have in my tool kt; therefore I started the engine and motored to the peaceful anchorage by Plymouth Yacht Haven where I stayed last Friday night. This was a convenient spot because it was near the slipway at Mountbatten where Al plans to launch his Paradox on Monday.
Monday 12th May
My priority was to link with Al Law when he launched his Paradox, 'Little Jim'; therefore mid-morning I took up the anchor and motored to the large public slipway at Mount Batten where I anchored to await his arrival. The boat needed a thorough clean on the inside and this was the opportunity to do it. As I finished the task Al arrived and I pulled alongside the slipway to anchor the boat in shallow water so that I could wade ashore and give a hand.
The launching was a painless affair and by 1315 we were anchored alongside one another back at the Plymouth Marina backwater that I felt was becoming my territory.
We had lunch and around 1500 we set out to beach our boats so that we could go in Al's car to John Perry's place where the trailer was to be stored. Unfortunately my anchor was caught under a cable; therefore Al went ahead to buy some petrol and deliver the trailer. A half-an-hour later I managed to free the anchor by contriving a hook from a pair of pliers attached to a piece of rope which I used to lift the cable and drop the anchor at the same time to drag it free.
I beached the boat and took the ferry to Plymouth for shopping and to post this blog. Al and I will probably spend tomorrow in the area before setting off westwards the next day.
Friday, May 09, 2008
The Cruise - Part 14
The Cruise – Part 14
Wednesday 7thMay
I spent the morning at Plymouth doing shopping and catching up on my emails. The clothing store 'Next' were having a sale where there was a bargain for a pair of jeans which I bought and my other needs were satisfied at Tesco.
Before shopping I spent a while looking at the Artemis Transit yachts in the basin at Sutton Harbour Marina. They are like enormous racing dinghies with lids to provide a modicum of protection for their single-handed crews. The smaller 40 foot class didn't seem to have the same prestige as the 60 footers, as they were mostly placed in positions well away from where the public could view them.
The start of the Race will be at 1400 on Sunday 11th May, but competing boats will start leaving the Marina from 1000. It will take that amount of time to sort everything out. I am hoping to sail to Cawsands to watch the competing boats set off. That will depend on the weather and John Perry with his partner Josephine, longstanding and well known DCA members, have planned to meet me there in their much travelled 'Grey Boat'.
Back at the boat I was pleasantly surprised to be presented with a bottle of Valentia white wine by the Berthing Master of the Queen Anne's Battery Marina. Apparently, a gift of wine is always given to skippers of a visiting yachts that have 'come from far'. For the record he took a photo of me and 'Faith'.
Bookings for a berth at the Marina always run until mid-day from whatever time a yacht arrived the previous day; therefore I set off for the River Yealm. As the wind was on the nose I used the engine which gave me time to look at things, one of which was the three-masted ship 'Kaskelot', registered at Bristol. She was anchored to the south of Mount Batten where her crew were busy at various maintenance jobs. She certainly looked resplendent and I thought perhaps there may be a tall ship gathering, as another sailing ship was in Sutton Harbour Marina.
I had planned the trip to the River Yealm with the ebb tide taking us as far as the Mewstone where the last of the east flowing current would not be too strong for us to enter the River. Two yachts were anchored outside the bar, awaiting sufficient water, but since 'Faith' only draws 9 inches that was not a problem. I discovered there were 8 feet of water in the passage and the new flood tide helped us on our way. Initially the River has a narrow steep-sided rocky entrance which, as one proceeds, gives way to a softer skyline of rolling wooded hills and beyond Warren Point northwards it opens up to an area of protected open water where there are several moorings, one of which I picked up. I was not there for long before the quiet-spoken and welcoming Harbour Master arrived for harbour dues. Besides the beauty and peace of the place, nearby there are toilets, showers and drinking water at the Newton Ferrers Jetty.
The Yealm is a haven for wildlife; besides the many birds which include heron, egrets, shags and oystercatchers the guide book tells of bass, Atlantic salmon, and sea trout. Shortly after arriving I was fascinated with fish swimming under 'Faith' and occasionally they purposefully slapped themselves against her bottom. I have never observed such behaviour before. The area has been designated as a site of special scientific interest and it is a coastal preservation area. Species such as pipe fish, seahorses, and rare sea slugs inhabit the water.
Thursday 8th May
I woke to a gorgeous morning warmed by the early sunshine peeping over the trees. Now and again gusts sweeping down the valleys blew 'Faith' sideways to the current. In response my DCA pennant rattled its staff as it vigorously snaked its tail in the wind. Here I was in a world of my own with time to spare and nothing to do but enjoy the gifts provided by God. I just lazed away the morning while admiring the views and soaking up the sun – at last a spot of real cruising.
To while away the time before sailing for Plymouth I reinforced the repair of the hole in my jeans and I felt satisfied with my achievement – not as pretty as my wife would have done it, but passable.
It became so hot that I changed into my shorts! Little did I know that by the evening there would be a cold front bringing heavy rain. Somehow I missed that in the weather forecast. I also took the opportunity of the sunshine to scrub the topsides and along the waterline. 'Faith' was looking resplendent. Passersby in their yachts waved with delight.
Just before I was due to sail I observed a man wearing an apron who was carefully dropping what appeared to be sacks of a heavy material into the river near the bank. I can only assume he was preparing a base for a jetty and he was doing it 2 hours before low water so that he could place the sacks precisely where he wanted them.
By 1330 we were moving fast under reefed sail towards the Great Mewstone. With a fresh easterly wind we bowled along, and within half-an-hour we were passing the Shagstone, complete with half a dozen shags, and ahead lay the eastern end of Plymouth breakwater. In the lee of Ramscliff Point the wind became fluky, so I started the engine to combat the ebb from the Sound. When a steady wind was found again I cut the engine and shortened sail even more, because it was becoming boisterous.
Instead of passing through the Bridge on the southwestern side of Drake's Island as before, I chose the big ship channel to the north of the island. Here there were half a dozen dinghy sailors under instruction and two River Boats moving swiftly with their passengers, one on her outward trip and the other on her homeward leg. The SD 'Penryn', a navy catamaran slowed down when overtaking us – even so, her wake was quite considerable causing 'Faith' to violently rock from side to side.
Having dropped the anchor in 6 feet of water close to the wooded shore of Mount Edgecomgbe on the northwestern side leading to Millbrook Lake, I took a snooze for an hour and when I woke it was raining. After I finished the evening meal the boat was disturbed by the movement of tugs escorting the destroyer D96 to Devonport Docks. By then the rain was very heavy and a fully crewed yacht was towed to a buoy astern of 'Faith'. I guess they had problems perhaps with an uncooperative engine as the wind had fallen light.
Friday 9th May
By morning the rain had gone, leaving grey clouds which blotted out the sun, but after washing myself and having a shave my spirits were not dampened. I needed to explore Turnchapel and the slipway where Al proposes to launch his Paradox, 'Little Jim' on Monday. I discovered there are two slipways at Mount Batten which is an extension of Turnchapel - most probably Al will use the wider of the two.
When I left Millbrook Lake there was no wind, and it was an hour before high water. Had I not the use of an engine my exploration of the eastern end of Plymouth Harbour could not have taken place. Indeed, without the engine this cruise would not have been possible. While we proceeded along the waterfront a fellow in a safety boat came alongside to satisfy his curiosity regarding 'Faith'; he had seen her sailing he day before. He told me he was an instructor for the Royal Navy Sailing Centre at Millbay Dock and the dinghies I had seen sailing near Drake's Island were the ones he supervised.
Plymouth Yacht Haven is situated in a natural cove at Turnchapel where, when I was a teenager, an elderly friend and I used to anchor his yacht. To my mind the delightful village and surroundings have been ruined, just as other beautiful places have been blighted by those wanting to make a fortune out of yachtsmen – The Bag at Salcombe is a notable example.
While en route for Mount Batten the huge Brittany Ferries ship arrived at Mill Bay Dock and a submarine was being towed by tugs towards Devonport Docks. there's always something happening on the water – never a dull moment.
I found a landing place with a gentle sloping beach right next to the Marina at Turnchapel and beached the boat at half tide. That gave me time to search for petrol, which proved abortive and to take the ferry to the Barbican for shopping, Internet access and a shower.
Wednesday 7thMay
I spent the morning at Plymouth doing shopping and catching up on my emails. The clothing store 'Next' were having a sale where there was a bargain for a pair of jeans which I bought and my other needs were satisfied at Tesco.
Before shopping I spent a while looking at the Artemis Transit yachts in the basin at Sutton Harbour Marina. They are like enormous racing dinghies with lids to provide a modicum of protection for their single-handed crews. The smaller 40 foot class didn't seem to have the same prestige as the 60 footers, as they were mostly placed in positions well away from where the public could view them.
The start of the Race will be at 1400 on Sunday 11th May, but competing boats will start leaving the Marina from 1000. It will take that amount of time to sort everything out. I am hoping to sail to Cawsands to watch the competing boats set off. That will depend on the weather and John Perry with his partner Josephine, longstanding and well known DCA members, have planned to meet me there in their much travelled 'Grey Boat'.
Back at the boat I was pleasantly surprised to be presented with a bottle of Valentia white wine by the Berthing Master of the Queen Anne's Battery Marina. Apparently, a gift of wine is always given to skippers of a visiting yachts that have 'come from far'. For the record he took a photo of me and 'Faith'.
Bookings for a berth at the Marina always run until mid-day from whatever time a yacht arrived the previous day; therefore I set off for the River Yealm. As the wind was on the nose I used the engine which gave me time to look at things, one of which was the three-masted ship 'Kaskelot', registered at Bristol. She was anchored to the south of Mount Batten where her crew were busy at various maintenance jobs. She certainly looked resplendent and I thought perhaps there may be a tall ship gathering, as another sailing ship was in Sutton Harbour Marina.
I had planned the trip to the River Yealm with the ebb tide taking us as far as the Mewstone where the last of the east flowing current would not be too strong for us to enter the River. Two yachts were anchored outside the bar, awaiting sufficient water, but since 'Faith' only draws 9 inches that was not a problem. I discovered there were 8 feet of water in the passage and the new flood tide helped us on our way. Initially the River has a narrow steep-sided rocky entrance which, as one proceeds, gives way to a softer skyline of rolling wooded hills and beyond Warren Point northwards it opens up to an area of protected open water where there are several moorings, one of which I picked up. I was not there for long before the quiet-spoken and welcoming Harbour Master arrived for harbour dues. Besides the beauty and peace of the place, nearby there are toilets, showers and drinking water at the Newton Ferrers Jetty.
The Yealm is a haven for wildlife; besides the many birds which include heron, egrets, shags and oystercatchers the guide book tells of bass, Atlantic salmon, and sea trout. Shortly after arriving I was fascinated with fish swimming under 'Faith' and occasionally they purposefully slapped themselves against her bottom. I have never observed such behaviour before. The area has been designated as a site of special scientific interest and it is a coastal preservation area. Species such as pipe fish, seahorses, and rare sea slugs inhabit the water.
Thursday 8th May
I woke to a gorgeous morning warmed by the early sunshine peeping over the trees. Now and again gusts sweeping down the valleys blew 'Faith' sideways to the current. In response my DCA pennant rattled its staff as it vigorously snaked its tail in the wind. Here I was in a world of my own with time to spare and nothing to do but enjoy the gifts provided by God. I just lazed away the morning while admiring the views and soaking up the sun – at last a spot of real cruising.
To while away the time before sailing for Plymouth I reinforced the repair of the hole in my jeans and I felt satisfied with my achievement – not as pretty as my wife would have done it, but passable.
It became so hot that I changed into my shorts! Little did I know that by the evening there would be a cold front bringing heavy rain. Somehow I missed that in the weather forecast. I also took the opportunity of the sunshine to scrub the topsides and along the waterline. 'Faith' was looking resplendent. Passersby in their yachts waved with delight.
Just before I was due to sail I observed a man wearing an apron who was carefully dropping what appeared to be sacks of a heavy material into the river near the bank. I can only assume he was preparing a base for a jetty and he was doing it 2 hours before low water so that he could place the sacks precisely where he wanted them.
By 1330 we were moving fast under reefed sail towards the Great Mewstone. With a fresh easterly wind we bowled along, and within half-an-hour we were passing the Shagstone, complete with half a dozen shags, and ahead lay the eastern end of Plymouth breakwater. In the lee of Ramscliff Point the wind became fluky, so I started the engine to combat the ebb from the Sound. When a steady wind was found again I cut the engine and shortened sail even more, because it was becoming boisterous.
Instead of passing through the Bridge on the southwestern side of Drake's Island as before, I chose the big ship channel to the north of the island. Here there were half a dozen dinghy sailors under instruction and two River Boats moving swiftly with their passengers, one on her outward trip and the other on her homeward leg. The SD 'Penryn', a navy catamaran slowed down when overtaking us – even so, her wake was quite considerable causing 'Faith' to violently rock from side to side.
Having dropped the anchor in 6 feet of water close to the wooded shore of Mount Edgecomgbe on the northwestern side leading to Millbrook Lake, I took a snooze for an hour and when I woke it was raining. After I finished the evening meal the boat was disturbed by the movement of tugs escorting the destroyer D96 to Devonport Docks. By then the rain was very heavy and a fully crewed yacht was towed to a buoy astern of 'Faith'. I guess they had problems perhaps with an uncooperative engine as the wind had fallen light.
Friday 9th May
By morning the rain had gone, leaving grey clouds which blotted out the sun, but after washing myself and having a shave my spirits were not dampened. I needed to explore Turnchapel and the slipway where Al proposes to launch his Paradox, 'Little Jim' on Monday. I discovered there are two slipways at Mount Batten which is an extension of Turnchapel - most probably Al will use the wider of the two.
When I left Millbrook Lake there was no wind, and it was an hour before high water. Had I not the use of an engine my exploration of the eastern end of Plymouth Harbour could not have taken place. Indeed, without the engine this cruise would not have been possible. While we proceeded along the waterfront a fellow in a safety boat came alongside to satisfy his curiosity regarding 'Faith'; he had seen her sailing he day before. He told me he was an instructor for the Royal Navy Sailing Centre at Millbay Dock and the dinghies I had seen sailing near Drake's Island were the ones he supervised.
Plymouth Yacht Haven is situated in a natural cove at Turnchapel where, when I was a teenager, an elderly friend and I used to anchor his yacht. To my mind the delightful village and surroundings have been ruined, just as other beautiful places have been blighted by those wanting to make a fortune out of yachtsmen – The Bag at Salcombe is a notable example.
While en route for Mount Batten the huge Brittany Ferries ship arrived at Mill Bay Dock and a submarine was being towed by tugs towards Devonport Docks. there's always something happening on the water – never a dull moment.
I found a landing place with a gentle sloping beach right next to the Marina at Turnchapel and beached the boat at half tide. That gave me time to search for petrol, which proved abortive and to take the ferry to the Barbican for shopping, Internet access and a shower.
Tuesday, May 06, 2008
The Cruise - Part 13
The Cruise – Part 13
Saturday 3rd May
Still at the Public Slipway in Balsam Creek, Salcombe - definitely a day for staying in port because it was far too windy, although from the right direction for Plymouth. I took the opportunity for cleaning the boat inside and out; then I discovered I could access the Internet via a Hotspot at Blue Water Cafe. That was a relief because of the difficulty I had since my last success at Brixham at the Yacht Club.
A yachtsman who owned 'Cassie' a Westerly Centaur, engaged me in general chat which lasted nearly an hour. He was helpful by giving me local information such as where to buy petrol and find Internet access.
As I suspected, I was asked to move the boat because the rules clearly signposted spelled out that the pontoon was for short stay by attended boats. I took the opportunity to tie up alongside the fuel barge for a meager 5 litres of petrol, then I explored the upper reaches of the River where I found 'Patsy Rye'. Nigel informed me he would be at the floating pontoon in The Bag. Later I joined him and several other yachts, and in the afternoon we enjoyed a circuitous walk to Balsam Creek and back to the hole through the hedge to the beach where we had left his dinghy.
Sunday 4th May
The big day arrived for sailing to Plymouth, but what a shock was in store at the Bar; the ebb was moving fast against a large swell, causing dangerous breaking waves. I steered 'Faith' well port in deep water, but even there we bobbed up and over the waves with the engine purring away. I was relieved to get to out to sea where the wave height diminished, but the swell remained. When well clear of the fearsome Bolt Head I set a course towards the Mewstone off the River Yealm. By 1025 we were adjacent to Burgh Island and with the ebb running in our favour we were doing 3.6 knots without much wind. The sun broke through the gloom to transform the day, to the extent that I shed my layers of sweaters. I saw my first swallow of the year heading for the coast, presumably after crossing The Channel. Six wonderful gannets with their large wingspan flew in formation like the Red Arrows buzzing the boat. The smell of the air was indescribably pure and fresh – the likes that can only be found at sea after crossing an ocean.
By mid-day there was a good force 3 pushing us relentlessly towards Plymouth. There were a few boats in Bigbury Bay, one of which was an old, classic vessel painted in black and yellow once used by the Navy for general use. I could hear her rhythmic engine from miles away.
Arriving at the eastern end of Plymouth Breakwater I could see many yachts on that Bank Holiday Weekend. An enormous white passenger ship entered the western entrance and she was followed by a purposeful looking frigate that anchored in The Sound. I took the opportunity of smooth water for topping up the outboard tank. The incoming tide swept us through The Bridge (a narrow opening between a submarine barrier) south west of Drakes Island towards the narrows by the Cremyll Ferry slipway. The usual swirling agitated waters of the Hamoaze south of Devonport had us changing course.
I was fascinated with the Navy vessels at the Dockyards; there were Frigates, a Pilot boat, three tugs, three large Auxiliaries, a submarine and twelve moored ammunition carriers.
With the flooding tide pushing us up the River Tamar we were doing a good four knots with hardly any wind. Nowadays there are countess numbers of yachts on moorings and I used them as signposts to show me the way to Cargreen and beyond. From there on, the River is beautiful being lined with trees and fields for grazing cattle or sheep. The light drizzle didn't diminish the view, in fact the opposite by providing atmosphere.
At 1750 I tied 'Faith' to the Calstock Town Foating Jetty, and there I spent a very uncomfortable night because the boat settled at an angle on the sloping mud.
Monday 5th May
Most of the day was spent with my friend Geoff who lives in Calstock. Late afternoon I took the boat along the narrow winding river to Morwellham and the views are quite stunning. For a section of the River there's a cliff on the starboard hand when going upstream and at other parts the wooded hills rise steeply and there's such a profusion of trees of many types with their various colourings. Now and again nestled between the trees and fields there are granite cottages by the old industrial town of Morwellham there are remains of building associated with tin and copper mining. A few very tall but deformed chimneys look like religious totems; on had the top split as if it had been struck by lightning.
I anchored 'Faith' in mid stream with hope that I might have a quiet night's sleep.
Tuesday 6th May
Had a really good night – didn't even hear the boat turn on her anchor at the flood. I had no concerns except for a tiny black snail that had found its way to the foredeck. As I didn't want a superfluous crew I determined to set the tiny thing free on one of the branches floating on the water and sure enough one obliged. Once securely aboard nature's raft the wind obligingly carried my unwanted friend to the river bank.
For some unknown reason the engine was not in the mood to continue after starting and therefore I changed the spark plug and all was well. For the first time there was a high pressure system giving a blue sky and much appreciated sunshine. The verdant countryside was at its best. At this part of the River Tamar the beauty is outstanding; there are rolling hills covered with an abundant variety of trees and here and there are hedged fields in which sheep and cattle graze. Birds for ever entertain; a graceful swan, black-headed ducks alighting and skiing in to halt with their feet spread out, moorhens pecking reeds, pigeons darting from the overhanging trees, geese honking to keep intruders away and crows passing the time of day with their raucous call.
At Devonport Dockyard there was a hive of activity; tugs chugging here and everywhere, the Police launch speeding along, men dressed in overalls on the deck of the dilapidated submarine 'HMS Tireless' and sailors aboard Frigate 321 the 'Argyll'.
I berthed alongside the visitor's pontoon at Mayflower Marina, but it was hopeless there because of the continuous waves caused by the washes of passing vessels. I next motored along Plymouth seafront to the Barbican where I gained permission to enter Queen Anne's Battery Marina, and here I leave you here as I take a late afternoon stroll into Plymouth in search of a MacDonald's to post this blog.
Saturday 3rd May
Still at the Public Slipway in Balsam Creek, Salcombe - definitely a day for staying in port because it was far too windy, although from the right direction for Plymouth. I took the opportunity for cleaning the boat inside and out; then I discovered I could access the Internet via a Hotspot at Blue Water Cafe. That was a relief because of the difficulty I had since my last success at Brixham at the Yacht Club.
A yachtsman who owned 'Cassie' a Westerly Centaur, engaged me in general chat which lasted nearly an hour. He was helpful by giving me local information such as where to buy petrol and find Internet access.
As I suspected, I was asked to move the boat because the rules clearly signposted spelled out that the pontoon was for short stay by attended boats. I took the opportunity to tie up alongside the fuel barge for a meager 5 litres of petrol, then I explored the upper reaches of the River where I found 'Patsy Rye'. Nigel informed me he would be at the floating pontoon in The Bag. Later I joined him and several other yachts, and in the afternoon we enjoyed a circuitous walk to Balsam Creek and back to the hole through the hedge to the beach where we had left his dinghy.
Sunday 4th May
The big day arrived for sailing to Plymouth, but what a shock was in store at the Bar; the ebb was moving fast against a large swell, causing dangerous breaking waves. I steered 'Faith' well port in deep water, but even there we bobbed up and over the waves with the engine purring away. I was relieved to get to out to sea where the wave height diminished, but the swell remained. When well clear of the fearsome Bolt Head I set a course towards the Mewstone off the River Yealm. By 1025 we were adjacent to Burgh Island and with the ebb running in our favour we were doing 3.6 knots without much wind. The sun broke through the gloom to transform the day, to the extent that I shed my layers of sweaters. I saw my first swallow of the year heading for the coast, presumably after crossing The Channel. Six wonderful gannets with their large wingspan flew in formation like the Red Arrows buzzing the boat. The smell of the air was indescribably pure and fresh – the likes that can only be found at sea after crossing an ocean.
By mid-day there was a good force 3 pushing us relentlessly towards Plymouth. There were a few boats in Bigbury Bay, one of which was an old, classic vessel painted in black and yellow once used by the Navy for general use. I could hear her rhythmic engine from miles away.
Arriving at the eastern end of Plymouth Breakwater I could see many yachts on that Bank Holiday Weekend. An enormous white passenger ship entered the western entrance and she was followed by a purposeful looking frigate that anchored in The Sound. I took the opportunity of smooth water for topping up the outboard tank. The incoming tide swept us through The Bridge (a narrow opening between a submarine barrier) south west of Drakes Island towards the narrows by the Cremyll Ferry slipway. The usual swirling agitated waters of the Hamoaze south of Devonport had us changing course.
I was fascinated with the Navy vessels at the Dockyards; there were Frigates, a Pilot boat, three tugs, three large Auxiliaries, a submarine and twelve moored ammunition carriers.
With the flooding tide pushing us up the River Tamar we were doing a good four knots with hardly any wind. Nowadays there are countess numbers of yachts on moorings and I used them as signposts to show me the way to Cargreen and beyond. From there on, the River is beautiful being lined with trees and fields for grazing cattle or sheep. The light drizzle didn't diminish the view, in fact the opposite by providing atmosphere.
At 1750 I tied 'Faith' to the Calstock Town Foating Jetty, and there I spent a very uncomfortable night because the boat settled at an angle on the sloping mud.
Monday 5th May
Most of the day was spent with my friend Geoff who lives in Calstock. Late afternoon I took the boat along the narrow winding river to Morwellham and the views are quite stunning. For a section of the River there's a cliff on the starboard hand when going upstream and at other parts the wooded hills rise steeply and there's such a profusion of trees of many types with their various colourings. Now and again nestled between the trees and fields there are granite cottages by the old industrial town of Morwellham there are remains of building associated with tin and copper mining. A few very tall but deformed chimneys look like religious totems; on had the top split as if it had been struck by lightning.
I anchored 'Faith' in mid stream with hope that I might have a quiet night's sleep.
Tuesday 6th May
Had a really good night – didn't even hear the boat turn on her anchor at the flood. I had no concerns except for a tiny black snail that had found its way to the foredeck. As I didn't want a superfluous crew I determined to set the tiny thing free on one of the branches floating on the water and sure enough one obliged. Once securely aboard nature's raft the wind obligingly carried my unwanted friend to the river bank.
For some unknown reason the engine was not in the mood to continue after starting and therefore I changed the spark plug and all was well. For the first time there was a high pressure system giving a blue sky and much appreciated sunshine. The verdant countryside was at its best. At this part of the River Tamar the beauty is outstanding; there are rolling hills covered with an abundant variety of trees and here and there are hedged fields in which sheep and cattle graze. Birds for ever entertain; a graceful swan, black-headed ducks alighting and skiing in to halt with their feet spread out, moorhens pecking reeds, pigeons darting from the overhanging trees, geese honking to keep intruders away and crows passing the time of day with their raucous call.
At Devonport Dockyard there was a hive of activity; tugs chugging here and everywhere, the Police launch speeding along, men dressed in overalls on the deck of the dilapidated submarine 'HMS Tireless' and sailors aboard Frigate 321 the 'Argyll'.
I berthed alongside the visitor's pontoon at Mayflower Marina, but it was hopeless there because of the continuous waves caused by the washes of passing vessels. I next motored along Plymouth seafront to the Barbican where I gained permission to enter Queen Anne's Battery Marina, and here I leave you here as I take a late afternoon stroll into Plymouth in search of a MacDonald's to post this blog.
Saturday, May 03, 2008
The Cruise - Part 12
The Cruise – Part 12
Monday 28th April
A swan flew in and landed by the boat on the dot at 0630. He swam near the boat, looked at me and guessed correctly that tidbits were unlikely when he took to the air again.
Just after seven I was at the Esso petrol station for 5 litres of unleaded, but finding the place was difficult because the people I asked had different ideas as to where it was!
Back at the boat, Lee, the Brixham Yacht Club Bosun, hailed me for his dinghy and by 0830 'Faith' was underway. The south westerly wind quickly took us to Berry Head where there was a fisherman bobbing and reeling in mackerel. Around the headland the wind was fine on the starboard bow and the ebb tide pushed 'Faith' to windward at a good 3.5 knots, but at the Mewstone the tide turned and the picture was quite different. The wind freshened to force 5 which caused the tops of the waves to break and we began to loose ground. I started the engine and powerd into the wind; sometimes wave tops swept the deck and crashed into the cabin front, but I was dry, warm and secure below. I observed 'Patsy Rye' close inshore under the cliffs motor-sailing. She quickly sped ahead while I pressed on for an hour before tacking towards Dartmouth.
Having cut the engine and tacked, 'Faith' sailed well between the troughs, and the breakers had little effect. Soon we were able to bear off towards the port red can buoy near the entrance between the castles. Reaching against the ebb from the River Dart was truly exciting, but in the narrow entrance the wind faded and became fluky. I could not make the engine start, and it was later that I discovered it had run out of fuel. A friendly chap in an open launch towed 'Faith' to Warfield Creek where I picked up a mooring and sorted the boat out while having a coffee.
Mid afternoon I motored up the River past the twin car ferries which are floating platforms shunted by miniature tugs. The public ferry swished ahead of 'Faith' and I was dismayed that the pontoon normally provided by the Dartmouth Yacht Club was not set in place. Finding a pontoon where I could moor was almost impossible, but the Yacht Taxi man showed me one.
After I had secured the boat I took the Yacht Taxi to the Town Quay so that I could do my shopping. While I was away the Taxi man filled my water tank. He returned me to my boat and shortly afterwards the Harbour Master's assistant collected dues; he also told me where I could moor so that I could walk ashore.
In the evening I visited Dartmouth Yacht club for a shower and to use their Hotspot, but I was unsuccessful in accessing the Internet.
Tuesday 29th April
There was time for an early morning walk to the nearest public toilet before the rain belted down causing a drumming sound on the Polycarbonate window in the hatch. Breakfast was therefore a leisurely affair with porridge, bacon, egg and marmalade on wholemeal bread helped down with tea and coffee.
A cold front was responsible for the rain and a sudden drop in temperature which had me back in my sleeping bag to keep warm. The morning went surprisingly quickly as I dozed and read alternately until lunch, after which the sun made and appearance inviting me to explore the walk to the Coast Guard Cottages high up on the cliff overlooking the bay to Start Point. There I observed the effect of the south easterly wind on the sea and I was glad not to be out sailing. I watched a motor yacht as it moved slowly to round the Mewstone, presumably on its way to Brixham against the ebbing tide. The boat plunged and rolled and I felt sorry for the crew who may have been sick with the violent motion.
Back at the waterfront I saw a Falmouth oyster boat and spoke to her lone crew who was delivering her from Guernsey to Mylor where she will pass into new ownership and for the purpose she was originally built. Those old working boats being gaff rig with long bowsprits and having straight stems are so easy to control under sail because of the versatility of the rig. The mainsail can be triced and the peak dropped while the staysail can be backed to control the speed and course for dredging.
The weather pattern is such that 'Faith' is unlikely to sail from Dartmouth until Friday - most likely for Salcombe.
Wednesday 30th April
As I suspected, the weather does not allow us to move on because of the possibility of a force 8 wind from the south west. Early in the morning I took the lower ferry to Kingswear to test the Hotspot known as Blackspot which is a pay system, but I could not complete the transaction owing to a technicality with PayPal. Even had I been successful I would not have been able to continue using the laptop because I was outside sitting on a pavement when the rain came down.
I returned to Dartmouth and did some shopping before walking back to the boat. Rain continued until mid-day when showers alternated with sunshine, but the wind was very cold from the north. I observed the movements of the ex-Brixham sailing trawler named 'Provident'; she's a fine looking wooden ketch with a distinctive varnished doghouse amidships. During the night she had been moored to the public pontoon and when the ferry needed to use the pontoon she anchored by number 6 buoy out of the fairway in the designated area. Later she re-anchored just above the Upper Ferry where I had seen her before.
With this sort of unsettled weather punctuated with showers and rain there is not a great deal one can do other than tog up well and enjoy a walk or explore the town.
Thursday 1st May
Early this morning the wind would have been right on the nose had I set off with a forecast of 4 to 5 south westerly, backing south. 'Faith' could have made it to Salcombe, via a waypoint outside the Start Pt. race, at the cost of being heeled at around 30 to 40 degrees and only making 2.5 knots with a lot of movement as she bobbed over the waves. Instead, I preferred to wait until tomorrow when the wind may be less strong and perhaps it may have some easting in it. Besides, I wanted to visit the launderette in Market Street to freshen my dirty clothes. In fact, I brought far too many clothes for the cruise, several of which I'm convinced I shall not use, but because of their weight they help trim 'Faith' by keeping her to her planned waterline.
The fresh morning wind brought large dark colds with the potential for making heavy showers, which made me take my waterproofs in my knapsack. At the launderette there was an elderly lady who could not understand how to operate the washing machines and dryers, therefore she asked me for assistance. Because all the controls were digital I was able to explain how they worked.
Back at the boat a gentleman named David whom I met earlier and who lives aboard a Golden Hind class yacht came to see my boat. He was amazed that I had sailed her from Burnham-on-Crouch. He explained that he was 78 and because of his age-related physical limitations he could not sail the boat to her potential, but if he chose to sail when there were fair winds he could manage. The name of his boat is 'Hesperus' and he mentioned that relatives call him The Wreck of the Hesperus.
I forgot to say that I was woken around the time of the early morning forecast by loud chanting which came from the direction of the Britannia Royal Naval College located at the top of a hill on the west side of the River Dart. As I habitually walked to the nearby toilets I saw many naval officer cadets running along the road – a few were having a really hard time, because they were overweight. Some of these trainee naval officers were young women, unlike when I sailed these same waters in 1950 when I was a teenager. Then, all of the trainees were men who had to undergo rigorous training on the water, including rowing whalers and sailing.
By lunch time the weather was distinctly better with long periods of sunshine. I was taken with the smart appearance of the steam train that runs from Kingswear to Paignton – the carriages are painted in brown and cream reminiscent of the era at the end of the war in 1945. This vision of the past trundled along the eastern river bank leaving a trail of white smoke while blowing a high pitched whistle. There was a lot more movement on the water than of late with several large yachts going to sea. Claude made the decision to set off early towards Falmouth - Mylor being his objective, where he hopes to exchange his boat for cash.
I took the opportunity of an afternoon without rain to retrace my steps of the other day to Dartmouth Castle and to the Coast Guard Cottages; this time I was inspired to walk further along the coastal path for an excellent view of Start Point. There were white crests to the waves, but nowhere near as large as on Tuesday when they willfully crashed on the rocks by the Castle.
At 2005 I was surprised to see 'Patsy Rye' tie up to the pontoon where 'Faith' was moored. Nigel told me he had lost his dinghy at sea while en route for Salcombe and that a fisherman had retrieved it. He learned this from the Coast Guard and discovered that it had been taken to the dinghy pontoon at Dartmouth.
I had another surprise when Joe and Jane who own The Canvas Factory shop at Dartmouth called by in their dinghy. Last year they had been sailing their Falmouth Quay Punt on the River Crouch when they took a couple of photos of 'Faith' and they were intrigued to find her on the Dart where they live aboard their yacht.
Friday 2nd May
Apart from the fact that the wind was from due south everything else was fine; therefore I made a start at 0750. A bright day and an ebbing tide from the Dart with the engine running and a scrap of sail to keep the boat steady we made rapid progress seaward. In the entrance and for a couple of miles the waves were fairly steep and 'Faith' bobbed her way towards a waypoint outside Start Point race. A large yellow cabin cruiser quickly overhauled us on her way to the Skerries Bank for some rod fishing. Our course, directly into the wind, lay a little to the west of the Skerries Bank Buoy.
By 1000 Start Point Lighthouse bore 270 degrees, just over 2 miles away. after another mile and a half we changed course for a point a quarter of a mile to the south east of Prawle Point. The engine was off and it was fine sailing in a force 3. As we drew near to the rocky outcrop of Prawle Point the Coast Guard Station was clearly visible with what appeared to be a red ensign flying at the flagstaff. The radar antenna was rotating, but I could not see anyone; nevertheless it was comforting to believe a duty officer was observing our progress.
While following the coastline I was intrigued with the natural hues of the rock face – greys, greens and yellow ocher. The scenery was stunning. To the west the craggy outline of Bolt Head resembled a giant lizard, similar to those that inhabit a particular island of the Galapagos archipelago. A large ketch followed 'Faith' along the leading line north to Sandhill Point where we changed course to the north east for the fairway. Salcombe was looking her best; to port there were brightly painted houses and a smart hotel and to starboard there were golden sandy beaches between outcrops of rock. Ahead were the moorings where we turned to port to find a place to stay. I started the engine and rolled up the sail. Baston Creek looked promising and sure enough I found a space at the pontoon by the public slipway.
I discovered that a the toilets were nearby and the road following the creek led to the Town Centre.
When I tidied and secured the boat I walked to the Town Jetty to see if 'Nancy Rye' had arrived. There she was motoring in and Nigel smartly picked up a mooring buoy. I could not gain his attention and on my way back to the boat I bought a few more provisions and a needle and thread to mend the knees of my jeans which were ripped.
I'm hoping I'll be able to stay moored to the slipway pontoon for a quiet night.
Monday 28th April
A swan flew in and landed by the boat on the dot at 0630. He swam near the boat, looked at me and guessed correctly that tidbits were unlikely when he took to the air again.
Just after seven I was at the Esso petrol station for 5 litres of unleaded, but finding the place was difficult because the people I asked had different ideas as to where it was!
Back at the boat, Lee, the Brixham Yacht Club Bosun, hailed me for his dinghy and by 0830 'Faith' was underway. The south westerly wind quickly took us to Berry Head where there was a fisherman bobbing and reeling in mackerel. Around the headland the wind was fine on the starboard bow and the ebb tide pushed 'Faith' to windward at a good 3.5 knots, but at the Mewstone the tide turned and the picture was quite different. The wind freshened to force 5 which caused the tops of the waves to break and we began to loose ground. I started the engine and powerd into the wind; sometimes wave tops swept the deck and crashed into the cabin front, but I was dry, warm and secure below. I observed 'Patsy Rye' close inshore under the cliffs motor-sailing. She quickly sped ahead while I pressed on for an hour before tacking towards Dartmouth.
Having cut the engine and tacked, 'Faith' sailed well between the troughs, and the breakers had little effect. Soon we were able to bear off towards the port red can buoy near the entrance between the castles. Reaching against the ebb from the River Dart was truly exciting, but in the narrow entrance the wind faded and became fluky. I could not make the engine start, and it was later that I discovered it had run out of fuel. A friendly chap in an open launch towed 'Faith' to Warfield Creek where I picked up a mooring and sorted the boat out while having a coffee.
Mid afternoon I motored up the River past the twin car ferries which are floating platforms shunted by miniature tugs. The public ferry swished ahead of 'Faith' and I was dismayed that the pontoon normally provided by the Dartmouth Yacht Club was not set in place. Finding a pontoon where I could moor was almost impossible, but the Yacht Taxi man showed me one.
After I had secured the boat I took the Yacht Taxi to the Town Quay so that I could do my shopping. While I was away the Taxi man filled my water tank. He returned me to my boat and shortly afterwards the Harbour Master's assistant collected dues; he also told me where I could moor so that I could walk ashore.
In the evening I visited Dartmouth Yacht club for a shower and to use their Hotspot, but I was unsuccessful in accessing the Internet.
Tuesday 29th April
There was time for an early morning walk to the nearest public toilet before the rain belted down causing a drumming sound on the Polycarbonate window in the hatch. Breakfast was therefore a leisurely affair with porridge, bacon, egg and marmalade on wholemeal bread helped down with tea and coffee.
A cold front was responsible for the rain and a sudden drop in temperature which had me back in my sleeping bag to keep warm. The morning went surprisingly quickly as I dozed and read alternately until lunch, after which the sun made and appearance inviting me to explore the walk to the Coast Guard Cottages high up on the cliff overlooking the bay to Start Point. There I observed the effect of the south easterly wind on the sea and I was glad not to be out sailing. I watched a motor yacht as it moved slowly to round the Mewstone, presumably on its way to Brixham against the ebbing tide. The boat plunged and rolled and I felt sorry for the crew who may have been sick with the violent motion.
Back at the waterfront I saw a Falmouth oyster boat and spoke to her lone crew who was delivering her from Guernsey to Mylor where she will pass into new ownership and for the purpose she was originally built. Those old working boats being gaff rig with long bowsprits and having straight stems are so easy to control under sail because of the versatility of the rig. The mainsail can be triced and the peak dropped while the staysail can be backed to control the speed and course for dredging.
The weather pattern is such that 'Faith' is unlikely to sail from Dartmouth until Friday - most likely for Salcombe.
Wednesday 30th April
As I suspected, the weather does not allow us to move on because of the possibility of a force 8 wind from the south west. Early in the morning I took the lower ferry to Kingswear to test the Hotspot known as Blackspot which is a pay system, but I could not complete the transaction owing to a technicality with PayPal. Even had I been successful I would not have been able to continue using the laptop because I was outside sitting on a pavement when the rain came down.
I returned to Dartmouth and did some shopping before walking back to the boat. Rain continued until mid-day when showers alternated with sunshine, but the wind was very cold from the north. I observed the movements of the ex-Brixham sailing trawler named 'Provident'; she's a fine looking wooden ketch with a distinctive varnished doghouse amidships. During the night she had been moored to the public pontoon and when the ferry needed to use the pontoon she anchored by number 6 buoy out of the fairway in the designated area. Later she re-anchored just above the Upper Ferry where I had seen her before.
With this sort of unsettled weather punctuated with showers and rain there is not a great deal one can do other than tog up well and enjoy a walk or explore the town.
Thursday 1st May
Early this morning the wind would have been right on the nose had I set off with a forecast of 4 to 5 south westerly, backing south. 'Faith' could have made it to Salcombe, via a waypoint outside the Start Pt. race, at the cost of being heeled at around 30 to 40 degrees and only making 2.5 knots with a lot of movement as she bobbed over the waves. Instead, I preferred to wait until tomorrow when the wind may be less strong and perhaps it may have some easting in it. Besides, I wanted to visit the launderette in Market Street to freshen my dirty clothes. In fact, I brought far too many clothes for the cruise, several of which I'm convinced I shall not use, but because of their weight they help trim 'Faith' by keeping her to her planned waterline.
The fresh morning wind brought large dark colds with the potential for making heavy showers, which made me take my waterproofs in my knapsack. At the launderette there was an elderly lady who could not understand how to operate the washing machines and dryers, therefore she asked me for assistance. Because all the controls were digital I was able to explain how they worked.
Back at the boat a gentleman named David whom I met earlier and who lives aboard a Golden Hind class yacht came to see my boat. He was amazed that I had sailed her from Burnham-on-Crouch. He explained that he was 78 and because of his age-related physical limitations he could not sail the boat to her potential, but if he chose to sail when there were fair winds he could manage. The name of his boat is 'Hesperus' and he mentioned that relatives call him The Wreck of the Hesperus.
I forgot to say that I was woken around the time of the early morning forecast by loud chanting which came from the direction of the Britannia Royal Naval College located at the top of a hill on the west side of the River Dart. As I habitually walked to the nearby toilets I saw many naval officer cadets running along the road – a few were having a really hard time, because they were overweight. Some of these trainee naval officers were young women, unlike when I sailed these same waters in 1950 when I was a teenager. Then, all of the trainees were men who had to undergo rigorous training on the water, including rowing whalers and sailing.
By lunch time the weather was distinctly better with long periods of sunshine. I was taken with the smart appearance of the steam train that runs from Kingswear to Paignton – the carriages are painted in brown and cream reminiscent of the era at the end of the war in 1945. This vision of the past trundled along the eastern river bank leaving a trail of white smoke while blowing a high pitched whistle. There was a lot more movement on the water than of late with several large yachts going to sea. Claude made the decision to set off early towards Falmouth - Mylor being his objective, where he hopes to exchange his boat for cash.
I took the opportunity of an afternoon without rain to retrace my steps of the other day to Dartmouth Castle and to the Coast Guard Cottages; this time I was inspired to walk further along the coastal path for an excellent view of Start Point. There were white crests to the waves, but nowhere near as large as on Tuesday when they willfully crashed on the rocks by the Castle.
At 2005 I was surprised to see 'Patsy Rye' tie up to the pontoon where 'Faith' was moored. Nigel told me he had lost his dinghy at sea while en route for Salcombe and that a fisherman had retrieved it. He learned this from the Coast Guard and discovered that it had been taken to the dinghy pontoon at Dartmouth.
I had another surprise when Joe and Jane who own The Canvas Factory shop at Dartmouth called by in their dinghy. Last year they had been sailing their Falmouth Quay Punt on the River Crouch when they took a couple of photos of 'Faith' and they were intrigued to find her on the Dart where they live aboard their yacht.
Friday 2nd May
Apart from the fact that the wind was from due south everything else was fine; therefore I made a start at 0750. A bright day and an ebbing tide from the Dart with the engine running and a scrap of sail to keep the boat steady we made rapid progress seaward. In the entrance and for a couple of miles the waves were fairly steep and 'Faith' bobbed her way towards a waypoint outside Start Point race. A large yellow cabin cruiser quickly overhauled us on her way to the Skerries Bank for some rod fishing. Our course, directly into the wind, lay a little to the west of the Skerries Bank Buoy.
By 1000 Start Point Lighthouse bore 270 degrees, just over 2 miles away. after another mile and a half we changed course for a point a quarter of a mile to the south east of Prawle Point. The engine was off and it was fine sailing in a force 3. As we drew near to the rocky outcrop of Prawle Point the Coast Guard Station was clearly visible with what appeared to be a red ensign flying at the flagstaff. The radar antenna was rotating, but I could not see anyone; nevertheless it was comforting to believe a duty officer was observing our progress.
While following the coastline I was intrigued with the natural hues of the rock face – greys, greens and yellow ocher. The scenery was stunning. To the west the craggy outline of Bolt Head resembled a giant lizard, similar to those that inhabit a particular island of the Galapagos archipelago. A large ketch followed 'Faith' along the leading line north to Sandhill Point where we changed course to the north east for the fairway. Salcombe was looking her best; to port there were brightly painted houses and a smart hotel and to starboard there were golden sandy beaches between outcrops of rock. Ahead were the moorings where we turned to port to find a place to stay. I started the engine and rolled up the sail. Baston Creek looked promising and sure enough I found a space at the pontoon by the public slipway.
I discovered that a the toilets were nearby and the road following the creek led to the Town Centre.
When I tidied and secured the boat I walked to the Town Jetty to see if 'Nancy Rye' had arrived. There she was motoring in and Nigel smartly picked up a mooring buoy. I could not gain his attention and on my way back to the boat I bought a few more provisions and a needle and thread to mend the knees of my jeans which were ripped.
I'm hoping I'll be able to stay moored to the slipway pontoon for a quiet night.
Sunday, April 27, 2008
The Cruise - Part 11
The Cruise – Part 11
Thursday 24th April
Unexpectedly I was invited to spend last night with my brother and his wife at their home in Sydling St. Nicholas, and what a change it was to sleep on a bed that didn't move! When I woke this morning and looked at the clouds rushing across the sky I was grateful not be at sea. There had been a band of heavy rain which had passed to reveal a beautiful spring morning - just right for a health-giving walk along country lanes where the blossoming trees proclaimed, “This is Spring at last.” In a fast flowing brook of clear water a trout darted from the cover of waving emerald weeds to hide under a stone until we had passed. Two male mallards clothed with pristine feathers of iridescent rainbow hues accompanied a dowdy mottled brown female swimming with the current to evade us until they conceived the danger was too great causing them to take to flight. Robins, wrens, blackbirds and crows spoke to one another of their territories in tuneful note, but with serious intent.
Back at my brother's home we had coffee in the warmth of the conservatory overlooking gorgeous rolling hills, characteristic of this part of Dorset. The flint built cottages with thatched roofs blend so naturally into their rural setting of farmsteads where cattle and sheep graze in leaf-fringed paddocks. It's and area of great wealth where only the privileged either by money or inheritance can live – a bastion of political and historical conservatism – the homeland of Thomas Hardy who invented Wessex for the settings of his scandalous and often sad novels.
Back at 'Faith' in the afternoon there were a succession of visitor who were interested in the little boat that by all accounts had sailed around the world! Some maintained she had circumnavigated Great Britain, but I countered these wild stories by maintaining she had sailed around the moon. Several visitors even took photos of me and the boat – fame at last. One local sailor when I told him of my problem with the outboard took me to Bussells Chandlery in Hope Street, because he said his friend Bill the owner would be able to sort out what was wrong. He was so bored he left his shop to diagnose the fault which turned out to me! I was not pulling the starting cord in the right way – that's first to find a compression load, then smartly pull the cord.
Friday 25th April
To take advantage of the tide and not be sucked into the Portland Race the best time for rounding the southern most tip of the savage peninsular is 4 hours after high water at Portland itself – that's when sailing from east to west. By adjusting the the speed of the boat we arrived at the crucial location exactly on time, i.e., 1400. The current was still running south against the wind which caused steep, but short waves and one of them knocked the outboard so that it was no longer low enough to provide full thrust which made getting out of the rough water to the west where there was almost flat water an anxious period.
The southerly breeze of force 2 or 3 was almost ideal for a course of 278 degrees true and within an hour we were nearly 6 miles from the Portland's hazards. Sailing south along the eastern side of the peninsular can be quite daunting; not only does the functional stone structure of the enormous ex naval harbour cause one to shudder, but the rocky and boulder strewn shore with the remains of a wrecked motor launch speaks terror. The nerves quiver as the speed of the tide increases while to seaward the race can clearly be seen. It's always a relief to be well clear of the notorious hazard.
An hour later the white lighthouse was barely visible astern through the gloomy haze, and there below it a tiny speck of tan brown which was the mainsail of 'Patsy Rye'. She had made it safely too.
The 33 mile passage across Lyme Bay was almost uneventful. The Portland firing range was not being used and apart from Nigel's lovely gaff cutter I only saw one other vessel, a fishing boat of some sort. Never had I crossed the Bay so quickly before, as on this occasion I used the engine to boost the speed which meant we arrived at the East Exe Bell Buoy about 2130. The navigation into the River Exe was made relatively easy by using the Lowrance GPS; nevertheless the adrenaline ran high because some of the buoys are unlit and the last long stretch is sailed on a bearing to white flashing lights at the entrance to the Marina. On the port hand there are sand banks, but it was high water and by the time I entered the Marina under the open drawbridge there was little movement of water.
Nigel was there to take my lines and help secure my treasure.
Saturday 26th April
What a lovely surprise there was for me shortly after I had eaten breakfast, for there was Al Law who had come to spend the day with me. We reminisced and explored parts of Exmouth by foot, including a coffee cafe and an ice cream vendor. I asked a young couple if there was a MacDonald's and they replied it was a couple of miles out of town on the Budleigh Salterton Road which was for my informants far too far to walk. My question was of little use because the battery of my laptop computer was low and by the time Ii was fully charged it was too late to visit MacDonald's.
I had a second free night at Exmouth Marina by courtesy of the Harbour Master.
Sunday 27th April
At 0700 I took the opportunity to motor the boat to a waiting pontoon on the Warren side of the River Exe. There was very little wind and it was peaceful as the birds made their early morning calls; I heard skylarks, crows and a pheasant!
By 1045 'Faith' was rounding Warren Point over Pole Sand in a depth of 10 feet. A light wind was from dead ahead; to starboard there were a few people walking along the beautiful golden sandy beach of The Warren and ahead lay the pretty seaside town of Dawlish with a road rising gradually up the hillside and colourful buildings in hues of white, yellow, blue and pink.
I motor-sailed the boat inshore, then tacked offshore before making a direct course towards Hope's Nose in the distance around which we needed to go before entering Torbay. As we sailed between the rocky Ore Stone and the headland of Hope's Nose the wind piped up and I shortened sail. To port a jaunty trawler was a work and ahead a large yacht was beating towards Berry Head. I deliberately headed westwards in the diretion of Paignton to avoid being adversely affected by the ebbing tide. The wind almost faded away when I changed course for Brixham. A group of people in an inflatable boat were trying to kite-sail a board. They were learners and there really wasn't enough wind to keep them moving fast enough.
'Faith' arrived at the pontoon of the Brixham Yacht Club at 1615 and I was greeted by Lee, the Bosun of the Club, who kindly let me have his rubber dinghy, to be returned early on Monday morning when he starts work. He also gave me the WEP code for the Club's WIFI.
What will tomorrow bring? – maybe a sail to Dartmouth.
Thursday 24th April
Unexpectedly I was invited to spend last night with my brother and his wife at their home in Sydling St. Nicholas, and what a change it was to sleep on a bed that didn't move! When I woke this morning and looked at the clouds rushing across the sky I was grateful not be at sea. There had been a band of heavy rain which had passed to reveal a beautiful spring morning - just right for a health-giving walk along country lanes where the blossoming trees proclaimed, “This is Spring at last.” In a fast flowing brook of clear water a trout darted from the cover of waving emerald weeds to hide under a stone until we had passed. Two male mallards clothed with pristine feathers of iridescent rainbow hues accompanied a dowdy mottled brown female swimming with the current to evade us until they conceived the danger was too great causing them to take to flight. Robins, wrens, blackbirds and crows spoke to one another of their territories in tuneful note, but with serious intent.
Back at my brother's home we had coffee in the warmth of the conservatory overlooking gorgeous rolling hills, characteristic of this part of Dorset. The flint built cottages with thatched roofs blend so naturally into their rural setting of farmsteads where cattle and sheep graze in leaf-fringed paddocks. It's and area of great wealth where only the privileged either by money or inheritance can live – a bastion of political and historical conservatism – the homeland of Thomas Hardy who invented Wessex for the settings of his scandalous and often sad novels.
Back at 'Faith' in the afternoon there were a succession of visitor who were interested in the little boat that by all accounts had sailed around the world! Some maintained she had circumnavigated Great Britain, but I countered these wild stories by maintaining she had sailed around the moon. Several visitors even took photos of me and the boat – fame at last. One local sailor when I told him of my problem with the outboard took me to Bussells Chandlery in Hope Street, because he said his friend Bill the owner would be able to sort out what was wrong. He was so bored he left his shop to diagnose the fault which turned out to me! I was not pulling the starting cord in the right way – that's first to find a compression load, then smartly pull the cord.
Friday 25th April
To take advantage of the tide and not be sucked into the Portland Race the best time for rounding the southern most tip of the savage peninsular is 4 hours after high water at Portland itself – that's when sailing from east to west. By adjusting the the speed of the boat we arrived at the crucial location exactly on time, i.e., 1400. The current was still running south against the wind which caused steep, but short waves and one of them knocked the outboard so that it was no longer low enough to provide full thrust which made getting out of the rough water to the west where there was almost flat water an anxious period.
The southerly breeze of force 2 or 3 was almost ideal for a course of 278 degrees true and within an hour we were nearly 6 miles from the Portland's hazards. Sailing south along the eastern side of the peninsular can be quite daunting; not only does the functional stone structure of the enormous ex naval harbour cause one to shudder, but the rocky and boulder strewn shore with the remains of a wrecked motor launch speaks terror. The nerves quiver as the speed of the tide increases while to seaward the race can clearly be seen. It's always a relief to be well clear of the notorious hazard.
An hour later the white lighthouse was barely visible astern through the gloomy haze, and there below it a tiny speck of tan brown which was the mainsail of 'Patsy Rye'. She had made it safely too.
The 33 mile passage across Lyme Bay was almost uneventful. The Portland firing range was not being used and apart from Nigel's lovely gaff cutter I only saw one other vessel, a fishing boat of some sort. Never had I crossed the Bay so quickly before, as on this occasion I used the engine to boost the speed which meant we arrived at the East Exe Bell Buoy about 2130. The navigation into the River Exe was made relatively easy by using the Lowrance GPS; nevertheless the adrenaline ran high because some of the buoys are unlit and the last long stretch is sailed on a bearing to white flashing lights at the entrance to the Marina. On the port hand there are sand banks, but it was high water and by the time I entered the Marina under the open drawbridge there was little movement of water.
Nigel was there to take my lines and help secure my treasure.
Saturday 26th April
What a lovely surprise there was for me shortly after I had eaten breakfast, for there was Al Law who had come to spend the day with me. We reminisced and explored parts of Exmouth by foot, including a coffee cafe and an ice cream vendor. I asked a young couple if there was a MacDonald's and they replied it was a couple of miles out of town on the Budleigh Salterton Road which was for my informants far too far to walk. My question was of little use because the battery of my laptop computer was low and by the time Ii was fully charged it was too late to visit MacDonald's.
I had a second free night at Exmouth Marina by courtesy of the Harbour Master.
Sunday 27th April
At 0700 I took the opportunity to motor the boat to a waiting pontoon on the Warren side of the River Exe. There was very little wind and it was peaceful as the birds made their early morning calls; I heard skylarks, crows and a pheasant!
By 1045 'Faith' was rounding Warren Point over Pole Sand in a depth of 10 feet. A light wind was from dead ahead; to starboard there were a few people walking along the beautiful golden sandy beach of The Warren and ahead lay the pretty seaside town of Dawlish with a road rising gradually up the hillside and colourful buildings in hues of white, yellow, blue and pink.
I motor-sailed the boat inshore, then tacked offshore before making a direct course towards Hope's Nose in the distance around which we needed to go before entering Torbay. As we sailed between the rocky Ore Stone and the headland of Hope's Nose the wind piped up and I shortened sail. To port a jaunty trawler was a work and ahead a large yacht was beating towards Berry Head. I deliberately headed westwards in the diretion of Paignton to avoid being adversely affected by the ebbing tide. The wind almost faded away when I changed course for Brixham. A group of people in an inflatable boat were trying to kite-sail a board. They were learners and there really wasn't enough wind to keep them moving fast enough.
'Faith' arrived at the pontoon of the Brixham Yacht Club at 1615 and I was greeted by Lee, the Bosun of the Club, who kindly let me have his rubber dinghy, to be returned early on Monday morning when he starts work. He also gave me the WEP code for the Club's WIFI.
What will tomorrow bring? – maybe a sail to Dartmouth.
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
The Cruise - Part 10
'Sunday 19th April
The inshore forecast for Wight was North East 4 or 5, increasing 6 at times, particularly around headlands. With that knowledge I set off from Lymington at 0950 with the engine running, but just as 'Faith' left the inner harbour the engine failed, and it seemed like a case of petrol starvation. With no time to lose before the Yarmouth bound ferry would put to sea I made sail and could hold the wind until clear of the shallow water to leeward. When the depth sounder showed 20 feet I set a course for Hurst Point - just under two-and-a-half miles away. The flooding tide was against us, but our speed over the ground was a good two knots. Through the haze I could make out the white lighthouse and the gaunt concrete and metal structure of Hurst Cast;e which was a fortification commanding the western entrance to the Solent during the war. To the East I could hear the guns for the competitive racing yachts of the Royal Lymington Yacht Club.
To the South West of Lymington Spit I observed a peculiar vessel anchored in shallow water and as my course lay along that path I discovered she was the race officer's boat for the Lymington Town Sailing Club.
We arrived too early at Hurst Point as the flood tide was still making against the wind, but 'Faith' was able to maintain just over a knot. By keeping very close inshore we could keep clear of the race to our port. It was exciting sailing, as I had to steer accurately to make sure the the boat did not involuntary gybe. The North Head green starboard hand buoy, distant about a mile-and-a-half, was our objective; once there we would be clear of the infamous shallows known as the Shingles over which the water pours resulting in dangerous overflows. This has been the grave of many unwary sailors.
While making to the West we were overtaken by several very fast RIBS; I assumed their crews were just enjoying the fun of speeding over the tumbling waves, and what for them was playful enjoyment could have been hazardous for the crew of 'Faith'. The well-known silhouette of the white cliffs of the Needles and its lighthouse could be seen through the yellow haze to the South. Soon we would escape the clutches of the Solent that entraps sailors like the sirens of Odysseus. The wind increased as we headed for Christchurch Bay beyond Milford on Sea where I had been entertained by cousin and her husband three days earlier. It was good to be sailing again after being stuck in port because of the excepionally windy weather.
While en route for Poole Harbour I frequently fortified myself by snacking on Cadbury Dairy Milk Whole Nut Chocolate, Brazil nuts and dried fruit. When Hingistbuty Head that marks the entrance to Christchurch Harbour lay abeam to starboard I felt we were on our way. The objective was to find Poole Bar Fairway Buoy No 1 to the North East of the white cliffs of Handfast Point. The nearer we approached the Buoy the bigger became the swell and waves as they rolled over the shallows. By the time we were passing through the narrows of Poole Harbour's entrance the tide was rushing out which meant our speed was reduced to just one knot which did not help when it came to avoiding the chain ferry. Beyond that hazard the wind almost failed which caused 'Faith' to sail backwards and not wishing to be swept to the open sea I tried the engine, but to no avail. Instead I was forced to change course for the South Deep Channel to the west where there would be less current.
In actual fact it was a fortuitous choice, because the sail along the winding channel to Goathorn Point where I anchored was delightful because of its beauty; wooded Brownsea Island lay to tne North, the smaller Furzey Island to the North West and the tiny Green Island to the West. Furzey Island was somewhat scarred by the derrick of an oil well and because of that exploitation the island is visited frequently by various craft to supply it with necessary goods. An extraordinary powered raft-like structure with a high bridge deck on a platform is used for transporting heavy vehicles.
The anchorage was at first peaceful, but when nightfall came the wind increased and it became uncomfortable. I observed a white egret patiently fishing at the water's edge.
Monday 21st April
After a not too pleasant night when 'Faith' was tossed and rolled by the waves I awoke to hear yet again another dreadful weather forecast. I snuggled into the sleeping bag with a resolve not to surface until after 0800 when I would have a leisurely breakfast. Throughout the morning there was a grey blanket of cloud which produced constant rain or drizzle. This did not stop the oyster fishermen doing their work, nor the frequent vessels visiting Furzey Island, or the bright yellow tripper boat named 'Maid of Lakeland' from doing her usual round of the passages between the Islands.
Poole is certainly a major ferry port, because during the afternoon an enormous passenger catamaran resembling the shape of a gigantic shark without a dorsal fin, but with a gaping open mouth ready to swallow anything in its path, entered and left the harbour and shortly after a towering top heavy Brittany Ferry named 'Contention' carried out the same routine.
With the aim of having a restful night I took up the anchor so that I could motor the boat to Bood Alley Lake, a passage between the mudflats south of Brownsea Island, but the engine failed only after a few minutes, possibly due to fuel starvation. I made sail and cut across the shallow water east of Furzey Island with only three feet under the keel until the boat was as close I could take her to the beach where I anchored in five feet. There I removed the cover of the outboard to discover why the fuel supply failed, but I took shy of dissembling the carburetter in case I could not reassemble it or perhaps I may have made things worse. Having an unreliable engine is not bit of use. My Honda had become a temperamental machine willing only to work when it decided.
While eating my evening meal I observed two fishermen walking the mud bank searching for cockles. Later they came close with their open boat PE113 named 'Ivy' and I asked them about their work. They confirmed they were looking for cockles and if they could find them, mullet too.
People may wonder what you do alone on a boat all day long, but I can assure you life is never dull. There is always something entertaining going on and there are jobs that need attention, besides time for reading, listening to the radio and enjoying welcome relaxation.
Tuesday 22nd April
I woke to find a very pleasant morning with the sun shining and a gentle breeze from the north. At 0900 I started the engine and set off for Poole Harbour entrance where the chain ferry was crossing to Sandbanks on the eastern side. There were no cross channel ferries entering or leaving and I had it all to myself. Despite my rude remarks about the engine, for a change it was running perfectly, and it enabled me to plug the flooding tide to Handfast Point and beyond. The wind filled in from the south which meant I could motor/sail past Anvil Point way beyond the famous race which was a non-starter because 'Faith' arrived there just as the tide was turning to the west. It was necessary to hold a course of 230 to avoid the Lulworth Firing Range until beyond the two danger zone buoys east of the Race. I could hear the guns with their booming periodic thuds and there was no way I wanted to get caught out.
When we reached 30 degrees 8 minutes north I set a course to run westwards, but the wind slightly headed us which meant we clipped the edge of the Range, but I noticed several vessels inshore of me, one of which turned out to be 'Patsy Rye' with whom I have been sailing in company. She's a beautiful wooden classic Hillyard 4 tonner.
I smothered myself with suncream to protect my face and hands from the strong sunshine. Haze caused me to lose sight of land. The Lowrance GPS with its charts was extremely helpful for checking our progress. With the tide bowling us along we were doing a good 5 knots. Early in the afternoon the tide set southwards which meant I had to offset to starboard to arrive in a safe position just north of a direct course to Weymouth. One can easily be dragged south around Portland Bill into the frightening race that even big ships avoid.
We made steady progress and arrived at Weymouth where we tied up to a pontoon on the south side of the Harbour opposite the Harbour Office. A group of children showed an interest in 'Faith' and asked several sensible questions about her. As I ate my fish and chips bought only a hundred yards away, two gulls waited patiently within touching distance. I rewarded them with left overs and others tried to join them, but they were driven away.
What to do tomorrow remains to be seen. I could stay in Weymouth or try for Bridport, even Exmouth if conditions are right. Most importantly I have to check the tide for the best time to round the Bill which is a tricky bit of navigation. You have to get it right or you could get into big trouble in the Race. There's a choice – either inside it or outside. I prefer the inner passage because it saves a good many miles and time.
Wednesday 23rd April
With the prospect of strong westerlies I decided to stay put in Weymouth where it is very comfortable, although noisy because of the fishing and tripper boats. I made it a 'get everything clean day' including myself, the laundry and the boat. The town itself is fascinating with such a variety of architecture, the Royal Dorset Yacht Club being an example of ornate design featuring pseudo Gothic arched windows.
I had a chat with a helper on 'Spirit of Weymouth', a 60 Class yacht entering the Artemis Transat. Apparently there had been vandalism on the boat that discouraged the owner, whose surname is White, but his forename is lost from my memory.
Nigel Davidson moored his boat, 'Patsy Rye' on the same pontoon as 'Faith'. We both agreed it was not a day for making west. My intention is to relax and prepare for the next stage of my westward quest which could involve night sailing.
There may be several days before the next posting, as I may reach the River Exe where finding a Hotspot may not be possible, but there may be one at Exmouth.
The inshore forecast for Wight was North East 4 or 5, increasing 6 at times, particularly around headlands. With that knowledge I set off from Lymington at 0950 with the engine running, but just as 'Faith' left the inner harbour the engine failed, and it seemed like a case of petrol starvation. With no time to lose before the Yarmouth bound ferry would put to sea I made sail and could hold the wind until clear of the shallow water to leeward. When the depth sounder showed 20 feet I set a course for Hurst Point - just under two-and-a-half miles away. The flooding tide was against us, but our speed over the ground was a good two knots. Through the haze I could make out the white lighthouse and the gaunt concrete and metal structure of Hurst Cast;e which was a fortification commanding the western entrance to the Solent during the war. To the East I could hear the guns for the competitive racing yachts of the Royal Lymington Yacht Club.
To the South West of Lymington Spit I observed a peculiar vessel anchored in shallow water and as my course lay along that path I discovered she was the race officer's boat for the Lymington Town Sailing Club.
We arrived too early at Hurst Point as the flood tide was still making against the wind, but 'Faith' was able to maintain just over a knot. By keeping very close inshore we could keep clear of the race to our port. It was exciting sailing, as I had to steer accurately to make sure the the boat did not involuntary gybe. The North Head green starboard hand buoy, distant about a mile-and-a-half, was our objective; once there we would be clear of the infamous shallows known as the Shingles over which the water pours resulting in dangerous overflows. This has been the grave of many unwary sailors.
While making to the West we were overtaken by several very fast RIBS; I assumed their crews were just enjoying the fun of speeding over the tumbling waves, and what for them was playful enjoyment could have been hazardous for the crew of 'Faith'. The well-known silhouette of the white cliffs of the Needles and its lighthouse could be seen through the yellow haze to the South. Soon we would escape the clutches of the Solent that entraps sailors like the sirens of Odysseus. The wind increased as we headed for Christchurch Bay beyond Milford on Sea where I had been entertained by cousin and her husband three days earlier. It was good to be sailing again after being stuck in port because of the excepionally windy weather.
While en route for Poole Harbour I frequently fortified myself by snacking on Cadbury Dairy Milk Whole Nut Chocolate, Brazil nuts and dried fruit. When Hingistbuty Head that marks the entrance to Christchurch Harbour lay abeam to starboard I felt we were on our way. The objective was to find Poole Bar Fairway Buoy No 1 to the North East of the white cliffs of Handfast Point. The nearer we approached the Buoy the bigger became the swell and waves as they rolled over the shallows. By the time we were passing through the narrows of Poole Harbour's entrance the tide was rushing out which meant our speed was reduced to just one knot which did not help when it came to avoiding the chain ferry. Beyond that hazard the wind almost failed which caused 'Faith' to sail backwards and not wishing to be swept to the open sea I tried the engine, but to no avail. Instead I was forced to change course for the South Deep Channel to the west where there would be less current.
In actual fact it was a fortuitous choice, because the sail along the winding channel to Goathorn Point where I anchored was delightful because of its beauty; wooded Brownsea Island lay to tne North, the smaller Furzey Island to the North West and the tiny Green Island to the West. Furzey Island was somewhat scarred by the derrick of an oil well and because of that exploitation the island is visited frequently by various craft to supply it with necessary goods. An extraordinary powered raft-like structure with a high bridge deck on a platform is used for transporting heavy vehicles.
The anchorage was at first peaceful, but when nightfall came the wind increased and it became uncomfortable. I observed a white egret patiently fishing at the water's edge.
Monday 21st April
After a not too pleasant night when 'Faith' was tossed and rolled by the waves I awoke to hear yet again another dreadful weather forecast. I snuggled into the sleeping bag with a resolve not to surface until after 0800 when I would have a leisurely breakfast. Throughout the morning there was a grey blanket of cloud which produced constant rain or drizzle. This did not stop the oyster fishermen doing their work, nor the frequent vessels visiting Furzey Island, or the bright yellow tripper boat named 'Maid of Lakeland' from doing her usual round of the passages between the Islands.
Poole is certainly a major ferry port, because during the afternoon an enormous passenger catamaran resembling the shape of a gigantic shark without a dorsal fin, but with a gaping open mouth ready to swallow anything in its path, entered and left the harbour and shortly after a towering top heavy Brittany Ferry named 'Contention' carried out the same routine.
With the aim of having a restful night I took up the anchor so that I could motor the boat to Bood Alley Lake, a passage between the mudflats south of Brownsea Island, but the engine failed only after a few minutes, possibly due to fuel starvation. I made sail and cut across the shallow water east of Furzey Island with only three feet under the keel until the boat was as close I could take her to the beach where I anchored in five feet. There I removed the cover of the outboard to discover why the fuel supply failed, but I took shy of dissembling the carburetter in case I could not reassemble it or perhaps I may have made things worse. Having an unreliable engine is not bit of use. My Honda had become a temperamental machine willing only to work when it decided.
While eating my evening meal I observed two fishermen walking the mud bank searching for cockles. Later they came close with their open boat PE113 named 'Ivy' and I asked them about their work. They confirmed they were looking for cockles and if they could find them, mullet too.
People may wonder what you do alone on a boat all day long, but I can assure you life is never dull. There is always something entertaining going on and there are jobs that need attention, besides time for reading, listening to the radio and enjoying welcome relaxation.
Tuesday 22nd April
I woke to find a very pleasant morning with the sun shining and a gentle breeze from the north. At 0900 I started the engine and set off for Poole Harbour entrance where the chain ferry was crossing to Sandbanks on the eastern side. There were no cross channel ferries entering or leaving and I had it all to myself. Despite my rude remarks about the engine, for a change it was running perfectly, and it enabled me to plug the flooding tide to Handfast Point and beyond. The wind filled in from the south which meant I could motor/sail past Anvil Point way beyond the famous race which was a non-starter because 'Faith' arrived there just as the tide was turning to the west. It was necessary to hold a course of 230 to avoid the Lulworth Firing Range until beyond the two danger zone buoys east of the Race. I could hear the guns with their booming periodic thuds and there was no way I wanted to get caught out.
When we reached 30 degrees 8 minutes north I set a course to run westwards, but the wind slightly headed us which meant we clipped the edge of the Range, but I noticed several vessels inshore of me, one of which turned out to be 'Patsy Rye' with whom I have been sailing in company. She's a beautiful wooden classic Hillyard 4 tonner.
I smothered myself with suncream to protect my face and hands from the strong sunshine. Haze caused me to lose sight of land. The Lowrance GPS with its charts was extremely helpful for checking our progress. With the tide bowling us along we were doing a good 5 knots. Early in the afternoon the tide set southwards which meant I had to offset to starboard to arrive in a safe position just north of a direct course to Weymouth. One can easily be dragged south around Portland Bill into the frightening race that even big ships avoid.
We made steady progress and arrived at Weymouth where we tied up to a pontoon on the south side of the Harbour opposite the Harbour Office. A group of children showed an interest in 'Faith' and asked several sensible questions about her. As I ate my fish and chips bought only a hundred yards away, two gulls waited patiently within touching distance. I rewarded them with left overs and others tried to join them, but they were driven away.
What to do tomorrow remains to be seen. I could stay in Weymouth or try for Bridport, even Exmouth if conditions are right. Most importantly I have to check the tide for the best time to round the Bill which is a tricky bit of navigation. You have to get it right or you could get into big trouble in the Race. There's a choice – either inside it or outside. I prefer the inner passage because it saves a good many miles and time.
Wednesday 23rd April
With the prospect of strong westerlies I decided to stay put in Weymouth where it is very comfortable, although noisy because of the fishing and tripper boats. I made it a 'get everything clean day' including myself, the laundry and the boat. The town itself is fascinating with such a variety of architecture, the Royal Dorset Yacht Club being an example of ornate design featuring pseudo Gothic arched windows.
I had a chat with a helper on 'Spirit of Weymouth', a 60 Class yacht entering the Artemis Transat. Apparently there had been vandalism on the boat that discouraged the owner, whose surname is White, but his forename is lost from my memory.
Nigel Davidson moored his boat, 'Patsy Rye' on the same pontoon as 'Faith'. We both agreed it was not a day for making west. My intention is to relax and prepare for the next stage of my westward quest which could involve night sailing.
There may be several days before the next posting, as I may reach the River Exe where finding a Hotspot may not be possible, but there may be one at Exmouth.
Saturday, April 19, 2008
The Cruise - Part 9
Thursday 17th April
The inshore forecast for Wight was extremely poor – east or north east 5-7. occasionally 8 – the right direction, but far too strong. I decided to keep off the boat as much as possible to avoid the severe movement at the Lymington Town Sailing Club pontoon. After breakfast I made use of the excellent facilities at the Club. The lounge overlooks the harbour and by the panoramic window there's an extremely powerful pair of binoculars that had been used by the Vice Commodore to observe my moves when I arrived yesterday. I enjoyed a coffee in the lounge before returning the boat.
A few yards away on the windward side of the pontoon there's a mini-transat boat named 'Rattle and Rum' owned by Keith Willis and sponsored by the Club. I noticed her fenders were not protecting her; therefore I readjusted them to prevent damage to her topside.
I spent quite a bit of time in the town and visited the Parish Church of St Thomas which has a beautiful carved architrave and attractive stained glass windows. While there a young couple had a look around and we had a good discussion about the Christian doctrine of the resurrection.
As good as her word, my cousin met me at the car park to take me to her house at Milton on Sea where I met her husband prior to celebrating their wedding anniversary at the Crown pub which has an excellent chef who did us proud by presenting us with wonderful food.
Friday 18th April
Again, the early morning forecast was awful, but Brian Pearson paid a visit to 'Faith'. He's a very keen sailor of scows. We enjoyed a chat and a coffee while light rain pattered on the decks. He offered to take my engine to Sal Marine, the local Honda dealer. Their mechanic maintained the reason for a reluctance to start was due to 'foul' or 'gone off' fuel that I bought at Brighton Marina. He swapped the spark plug and replenished the tank and subsequently delivered the engine to the boat, and later he returned with a new plug to replace an incorrect one sold to me when I paid the bill.
Brian suggested I might like to join him for a curry evening at Keyhaven Club, of which he is a member, and as promised he took me there; on the way he showed me vantage points from where I could see features such as Hurst Castle, the Lighthouse, the Needles, Milford Bay and Keyhaven Harbour. Near the yacht club we looked at a very fine Falmouth Pilot type yacht drawn up on the hard in preparation for modifications to her cabin.
While at the Club we chatted about small boats, and in particular the topic of scows of which Brian is an expert. He is a fanatical sailing boat enthusiast with a penchant for the Hugh Norton type 50/50 sailing/paddling canoe. Needless to say we had a very enjoyable evening.
Saturday 19th April
Because of persistent high pressure over Scotland a succession of lows remain over southern England which bring strong winds from the east or north east, and today unwanted rain. It is also very cold and I am having difficulty in keeping warm, especially my feet, because I suffer with Reynaud's Syndrome which is an inherited circulatory problem. How lovely it will be when the weather warms up.
This evening I met Keith Willis and took photos of his mini-transat boat which he plans to sail to Plymouth to enter the qualifying passage to the Fastnet Rock and back.
The weather is still pretty awful, but I live in hope that I may be able to escape Lymington tomorrow.
The inshore forecast for Wight was extremely poor – east or north east 5-7. occasionally 8 – the right direction, but far too strong. I decided to keep off the boat as much as possible to avoid the severe movement at the Lymington Town Sailing Club pontoon. After breakfast I made use of the excellent facilities at the Club. The lounge overlooks the harbour and by the panoramic window there's an extremely powerful pair of binoculars that had been used by the Vice Commodore to observe my moves when I arrived yesterday. I enjoyed a coffee in the lounge before returning the boat.
A few yards away on the windward side of the pontoon there's a mini-transat boat named 'Rattle and Rum' owned by Keith Willis and sponsored by the Club. I noticed her fenders were not protecting her; therefore I readjusted them to prevent damage to her topside.
I spent quite a bit of time in the town and visited the Parish Church of St Thomas which has a beautiful carved architrave and attractive stained glass windows. While there a young couple had a look around and we had a good discussion about the Christian doctrine of the resurrection.
As good as her word, my cousin met me at the car park to take me to her house at Milton on Sea where I met her husband prior to celebrating their wedding anniversary at the Crown pub which has an excellent chef who did us proud by presenting us with wonderful food.
Friday 18th April
Again, the early morning forecast was awful, but Brian Pearson paid a visit to 'Faith'. He's a very keen sailor of scows. We enjoyed a chat and a coffee while light rain pattered on the decks. He offered to take my engine to Sal Marine, the local Honda dealer. Their mechanic maintained the reason for a reluctance to start was due to 'foul' or 'gone off' fuel that I bought at Brighton Marina. He swapped the spark plug and replenished the tank and subsequently delivered the engine to the boat, and later he returned with a new plug to replace an incorrect one sold to me when I paid the bill.
Brian suggested I might like to join him for a curry evening at Keyhaven Club, of which he is a member, and as promised he took me there; on the way he showed me vantage points from where I could see features such as Hurst Castle, the Lighthouse, the Needles, Milford Bay and Keyhaven Harbour. Near the yacht club we looked at a very fine Falmouth Pilot type yacht drawn up on the hard in preparation for modifications to her cabin.
While at the Club we chatted about small boats, and in particular the topic of scows of which Brian is an expert. He is a fanatical sailing boat enthusiast with a penchant for the Hugh Norton type 50/50 sailing/paddling canoe. Needless to say we had a very enjoyable evening.
Saturday 19th April
Because of persistent high pressure over Scotland a succession of lows remain over southern England which bring strong winds from the east or north east, and today unwanted rain. It is also very cold and I am having difficulty in keeping warm, especially my feet, because I suffer with Reynaud's Syndrome which is an inherited circulatory problem. How lovely it will be when the weather warms up.
This evening I met Keith Willis and took photos of his mini-transat boat which he plans to sail to Plymouth to enter the qualifying passage to the Fastnet Rock and back.
The weather is still pretty awful, but I live in hope that I may be able to escape Lymington tomorrow.
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
The Cruise - Part 8
Cruise – Part 8
Sun 13th April
The forecast was for SW veering NW 4/5, increasing 6 later. I thought I would have time to reach Shoreham before the flood tide and in fact this is how it worked out. I only needed one tack to get sufficient sea room to make the entrance of Shoreham Harbour. At my arrival at the entrance it was 1020 and the Shoreham Sailing Club dinghies were racing. 'Faith' ran before the wind along the Western Pier and turned to port for the Club slipway and there I beached her to await the rising tide. I reconnoitered the bank further into the Western Harbour to find a spot for beaching the boat to have a good night's sleep.
When the boat floated I started the engine and leisurely surveyed the scene as far as the wooden pedestrian bridge above the Sussex Yacht Club and there I saw 'Speedwell' the ketch I was skipper of for 8 months. She was in her usual position on the Club slipway, but she had been painted a pale yellow. When I was in charge of her she was in the traditional black of an old Whitstable smack. This dockland area is industrial with storage tanks, metal dumps and sand piles. Fishing boats were tied up to the north key. On the south side the docks have been transformed by the creation of multiple apartments. The crew of 'Freedom', a fishing boat, gave me a hearty wave.
As I was waiting for the tide to reach its peak I was entertained by children playing on the beach and two jetski boats being retrieved by a 4 wheel drive vehicle which I thought could get stuck in the soft sand, but it coped well.
An hour after the ebb set I beached the boat at the Harbour Club where Tony from the Club introduced himself and invited me to use the facilities. He introduced me to his wife Hannah and their children. I tried to access the Internet through the Club's Hotspot, but was unsuccessful.
The forecast for tomorrow is for force 4 or 5 NW increasing to 6 at times, with showers and good visibility.
Monday 14th April
At 0630 the harbour control light was flashing red which meant a cargo vessel was comoing, and sure enough I saw the bridge deck of the ship above the harbour wall. Three quarters of an hour later 'Faith' was heading for the sea. The forecast was for stronger winds than I would have wanted, reaching force 6 at times from the north west – OK for the first stretch to Selsey Bill, but not so good for Chichester Harbour.
By 0845 we were sailing nicely off Worthing Pier when I was astonished to see a man standing on a surfboard and paddling it with a long shafted paddle. I thought he needed assistance so I changed course and back-tracked until within shouting distance of the paddler, but he totally ignored me. Thereupon I resumed the course towards the Mixon, a beacon south of Selsey Bill. An hour later we passed close to a red Trinity House vessel with a crane and showing three black diamond shapes at the masthead, indicating they were conducting special operations and had right of way.
Shortly after eleven the wind failed, so I started the engine, but an hour and a half later it came in from dead ahead. The tide turned against us and there was a fierce squall with heavy rain, which caused me to shorten sail. Having succeeded in rounding the Mixon the going got harder as the tide turned against the north west wind at about force 5. Water frequently crashed over the boat, but I remained dry inside the cabin. Nearer to Chichester Harbour the wind moderated and by the time we were at East Head it had almost petered out. We motored into Snowhill Creek just as it became dark and we anchored in 5 feet of water where we would dry out for the night. There was a beautiful crescent moon, but the air was very cold.
Tuesday 15th April
The early morning scene was incredibly beautiful, a bit like those ancient Chinese paintings where there are layers of fading mist and it was so peaceful as the skylark praised the dawn. A heron stood patiently at the water's edge. My breath condensed while I cooked a full English breakfast. Soon the boat was afloat, raised by the incoming tide and I wondered at the lovely clean water flowing over the sand and the shoals of tiny silver fish.
I was highly amused at a woman walking the beach with her two dogs, one of whom was called Leo. She commanded him to fetch a stone she threw into the water, but the dog just looked up at her as if to say the exercise would be pointless as he would not be able to find it. Again and again the woman repeated her command with an imperious voice, but the dog just sat on its haunches, whereupon she became very angry and frustrated.
Later that morning I anchored 'Faith' near the head of Snowhill Creek and within an hour or so there were several other yachts to keep her company. Not a great deal happened during the day which I reserved as a rest day. The 'Walcon Wizard', a huge floating pile driver with a tall crane structure amidships made her way to sea and returned in the evening. Incredibly, just as I was about to cook the evening meal and listen to the forecast, a chap anchored his Hunter Pilot 27, ' Caddle of Ayre', right over the spot where my anchor was dug in! Eventually he moved his boat before I took 'Faith' into Snowhill Creek for the night.
Wednesday 16th April
The forecast was for strong easterlies leading to gale force, but there was ample time for sailing to Lymington with the tide pushing us along, so I set off from Snowhill Creek at 0710 when the rising tide floated 'Faith' off the mud. Getting out of Chichester Harbour against the incoming flood tide was only possible because of the engine. Once clear of the bar I set a course for Horse Sand Fort which marks the southern end of a barrier set up during the war to keep submarines from entering the Solent.
Speed was mostly above 5 knots with wind and tide pushing us along. From Ryde and Wooton there were ferries linking with Southsea, including the yellow 'Fast Cat' catamaran. The water was a characteristic deep green, only seen on these waters. Approaching Cowes I could see Norris Castle high up in the trees with its twin towers looking like a Disney set. Quite a few swish yachts were enjoying the fresh breeze. I had to keep a keen eye on the sail to prevent involuntary broaching. To the north the huge chimney and buildings of Fawley Power Station could clearly be seen, and a couple of miles to the west a forest of masts marked the Beaulie moorings.
It was exciting sailing all the way to the entrance to Lymington River and even more exciting going in as one ferry was leaving and another entering, and just when I needed the engine it failed to start. By reducing sail I was able to make a controlled course close to Lymington Marina and just beyond to the pontoon of The Lymington Town Sailing Club, whose members made me very welcome, even helping me to more on the leeward side of their pontoon in anticipation of the forecast easterly gale. The time of arrival was 1300 which must be a record for the boat, taking only 5 hours and 40 minutes. When I get back to the boat I must work out the average speed.
Tomorrow I'll probably spend the day exploring Lymington and Milford on Sea, as a cousin has invited me to a celebratory meal for her wedding anniversary.
Sun 13th April
The forecast was for SW veering NW 4/5, increasing 6 later. I thought I would have time to reach Shoreham before the flood tide and in fact this is how it worked out. I only needed one tack to get sufficient sea room to make the entrance of Shoreham Harbour. At my arrival at the entrance it was 1020 and the Shoreham Sailing Club dinghies were racing. 'Faith' ran before the wind along the Western Pier and turned to port for the Club slipway and there I beached her to await the rising tide. I reconnoitered the bank further into the Western Harbour to find a spot for beaching the boat to have a good night's sleep.
When the boat floated I started the engine and leisurely surveyed the scene as far as the wooden pedestrian bridge above the Sussex Yacht Club and there I saw 'Speedwell' the ketch I was skipper of for 8 months. She was in her usual position on the Club slipway, but she had been painted a pale yellow. When I was in charge of her she was in the traditional black of an old Whitstable smack. This dockland area is industrial with storage tanks, metal dumps and sand piles. Fishing boats were tied up to the north key. On the south side the docks have been transformed by the creation of multiple apartments. The crew of 'Freedom', a fishing boat, gave me a hearty wave.
As I was waiting for the tide to reach its peak I was entertained by children playing on the beach and two jetski boats being retrieved by a 4 wheel drive vehicle which I thought could get stuck in the soft sand, but it coped well.
An hour after the ebb set I beached the boat at the Harbour Club where Tony from the Club introduced himself and invited me to use the facilities. He introduced me to his wife Hannah and their children. I tried to access the Internet through the Club's Hotspot, but was unsuccessful.
The forecast for tomorrow is for force 4 or 5 NW increasing to 6 at times, with showers and good visibility.
Monday 14th April
At 0630 the harbour control light was flashing red which meant a cargo vessel was comoing, and sure enough I saw the bridge deck of the ship above the harbour wall. Three quarters of an hour later 'Faith' was heading for the sea. The forecast was for stronger winds than I would have wanted, reaching force 6 at times from the north west – OK for the first stretch to Selsey Bill, but not so good for Chichester Harbour.
By 0845 we were sailing nicely off Worthing Pier when I was astonished to see a man standing on a surfboard and paddling it with a long shafted paddle. I thought he needed assistance so I changed course and back-tracked until within shouting distance of the paddler, but he totally ignored me. Thereupon I resumed the course towards the Mixon, a beacon south of Selsey Bill. An hour later we passed close to a red Trinity House vessel with a crane and showing three black diamond shapes at the masthead, indicating they were conducting special operations and had right of way.
Shortly after eleven the wind failed, so I started the engine, but an hour and a half later it came in from dead ahead. The tide turned against us and there was a fierce squall with heavy rain, which caused me to shorten sail. Having succeeded in rounding the Mixon the going got harder as the tide turned against the north west wind at about force 5. Water frequently crashed over the boat, but I remained dry inside the cabin. Nearer to Chichester Harbour the wind moderated and by the time we were at East Head it had almost petered out. We motored into Snowhill Creek just as it became dark and we anchored in 5 feet of water where we would dry out for the night. There was a beautiful crescent moon, but the air was very cold.
Tuesday 15th April
The early morning scene was incredibly beautiful, a bit like those ancient Chinese paintings where there are layers of fading mist and it was so peaceful as the skylark praised the dawn. A heron stood patiently at the water's edge. My breath condensed while I cooked a full English breakfast. Soon the boat was afloat, raised by the incoming tide and I wondered at the lovely clean water flowing over the sand and the shoals of tiny silver fish.
I was highly amused at a woman walking the beach with her two dogs, one of whom was called Leo. She commanded him to fetch a stone she threw into the water, but the dog just looked up at her as if to say the exercise would be pointless as he would not be able to find it. Again and again the woman repeated her command with an imperious voice, but the dog just sat on its haunches, whereupon she became very angry and frustrated.
Later that morning I anchored 'Faith' near the head of Snowhill Creek and within an hour or so there were several other yachts to keep her company. Not a great deal happened during the day which I reserved as a rest day. The 'Walcon Wizard', a huge floating pile driver with a tall crane structure amidships made her way to sea and returned in the evening. Incredibly, just as I was about to cook the evening meal and listen to the forecast, a chap anchored his Hunter Pilot 27, ' Caddle of Ayre', right over the spot where my anchor was dug in! Eventually he moved his boat before I took 'Faith' into Snowhill Creek for the night.
Wednesday 16th April
The forecast was for strong easterlies leading to gale force, but there was ample time for sailing to Lymington with the tide pushing us along, so I set off from Snowhill Creek at 0710 when the rising tide floated 'Faith' off the mud. Getting out of Chichester Harbour against the incoming flood tide was only possible because of the engine. Once clear of the bar I set a course for Horse Sand Fort which marks the southern end of a barrier set up during the war to keep submarines from entering the Solent.
Speed was mostly above 5 knots with wind and tide pushing us along. From Ryde and Wooton there were ferries linking with Southsea, including the yellow 'Fast Cat' catamaran. The water was a characteristic deep green, only seen on these waters. Approaching Cowes I could see Norris Castle high up in the trees with its twin towers looking like a Disney set. Quite a few swish yachts were enjoying the fresh breeze. I had to keep a keen eye on the sail to prevent involuntary broaching. To the north the huge chimney and buildings of Fawley Power Station could clearly be seen, and a couple of miles to the west a forest of masts marked the Beaulie moorings.
It was exciting sailing all the way to the entrance to Lymington River and even more exciting going in as one ferry was leaving and another entering, and just when I needed the engine it failed to start. By reducing sail I was able to make a controlled course close to Lymington Marina and just beyond to the pontoon of The Lymington Town Sailing Club, whose members made me very welcome, even helping me to more on the leeward side of their pontoon in anticipation of the forecast easterly gale. The time of arrival was 1300 which must be a record for the boat, taking only 5 hours and 40 minutes. When I get back to the boat I must work out the average speed.
Tomorrow I'll probably spend the day exploring Lymington and Milford on Sea, as a cousin has invited me to a celebratory meal for her wedding anniversary.
Saturday, April 12, 2008
The Cruise - Part 7
Cruise -Part 7
Sat 12th April
There's nearly always loads happening on the water, especially at a busy marina like Brighton, and today was no exception. The first thing that my attention was drawn to was activity on the nearby Cadet patrol vessel, a dark grey naval style large motor cruiser named 'Puncher', P291.
Several crew members wearing their smart dark blue uniforms arrived just before 0800 and the friendly officer in charge came over for a chat. He told me he was expecting the lady Mayor of Eastbourne and her officials for a trip up Channel to Sovereign Yacht Harbour where there would be a special function - an event to do with a commemoration in connection with Eastbourne. He had advised the Mayor to cancel her trip as it would be pretty lively so say the least; nevertheless she persisted and boarded with her entourage at 0940. The ship's engines were started, and again I was visited, but this time by one of the junior officers who asked if I would release the mooring lines when the boat was leaving her pontoon. The reason for requiring my assistance was that it would be impossible for a crew member to get back on board the ship after the lines had been released because the strong wind would have pushed the vessel away from the pontoon. All went well without the lines snarling the propellers as 'Puncher' reversed.
The next event was the appearance of a sleek racing sailboat named 'Mr Green' which was owned by Sailnet.UK. She was fully crewed by students and her instructor; they had a deeply reefed the mainsail and the boat was powered by an outboard motor. Two identical racing machines followed: 'Mr Blue' and 'Mr Pink'. They disappeared from sight around the inner breakwater while spray periodically was projected over it. A bright yellow RIB laden with large orange marker buoys accompanied the racing boats - presumably the buoys were to be used for laying out a course.
I did the laundry while having lunch and that facility was good value for money at only £1 for the washing machine and £2 for the dryer. I met a lady in the laundry who was at first a little grumpy because she was complaining about 'communal living' and on clarifying what she meant I understood she considered the terminology described her 'practical union of marriage', but I noted she asked her husband by mobile phone to assist her, which he promptly did. The lady said the drawback of living on a boat in the marina was having to share facilities and it was not the same as having a home where one has privacy.
During the early afternoon there was no let-up of the almost gale force wind, and I was grateful for an offer from a gentleman who owned a Princess 43 motor yacht named, 'Myakka Moon'. His boat was tucked behind a north/south facing pontoon which brought about a calm spot just short of her stern. He suggested I should motor 'Faith' around to that position where he would take my lines so that I would have a more peaceful night than the previous one. In truth, there was no peace last night because of the incessant, strong and bitterly cold wind which caused the sea to be agitated.
Having moved the boat I was able to charge the VHF radio's battery, along with that of my mobile phone. The ship's battery did not need charging because of the effective solar panel.
Yesterday I forgot to give an account of my meeting with Mr Alan Ried aboard 'Orca', a 40 year old Tony Smith trimaran. He and his friend had been sailing an identical vessel off the Needles in very rough weather on 5th November when she was pitch-polled, after which they fought their way to the surface and climbed aboard the upturned hull. As Providence would have it, a German yacht passed within hailing distance and her vigilant crew hearing their whistles responded to see two sailors in their survival gear standing on the upturned hull. The efficient Germans alerted the Coastguard who mobilized their helicopter for the rescue mission which was accomplished before nightfall at five in the afternoon. They were extremely lucky, because prior to the arrival of the Germans no one knew of their plight and the flares they had sent off were not seen; indeed, most probably their distress pyrotechnics would not have been considered as such because it was Guy Fawkes night and fireworks were going off all the time.
This is my fourth night at Brighton Marina awaiting favourable conditions for continuing westwards. As I said yesterday, maybe the wind will moderate so that I can progress westwards, possibly to Ryde on the Isle of Wight or Chichester Harbour in the Solent.
Sat 12th April
There's nearly always loads happening on the water, especially at a busy marina like Brighton, and today was no exception. The first thing that my attention was drawn to was activity on the nearby Cadet patrol vessel, a dark grey naval style large motor cruiser named 'Puncher', P291.
Several crew members wearing their smart dark blue uniforms arrived just before 0800 and the friendly officer in charge came over for a chat. He told me he was expecting the lady Mayor of Eastbourne and her officials for a trip up Channel to Sovereign Yacht Harbour where there would be a special function - an event to do with a commemoration in connection with Eastbourne. He had advised the Mayor to cancel her trip as it would be pretty lively so say the least; nevertheless she persisted and boarded with her entourage at 0940. The ship's engines were started, and again I was visited, but this time by one of the junior officers who asked if I would release the mooring lines when the boat was leaving her pontoon. The reason for requiring my assistance was that it would be impossible for a crew member to get back on board the ship after the lines had been released because the strong wind would have pushed the vessel away from the pontoon. All went well without the lines snarling the propellers as 'Puncher' reversed.
The next event was the appearance of a sleek racing sailboat named 'Mr Green' which was owned by Sailnet.UK. She was fully crewed by students and her instructor; they had a deeply reefed the mainsail and the boat was powered by an outboard motor. Two identical racing machines followed: 'Mr Blue' and 'Mr Pink'. They disappeared from sight around the inner breakwater while spray periodically was projected over it. A bright yellow RIB laden with large orange marker buoys accompanied the racing boats - presumably the buoys were to be used for laying out a course.
I did the laundry while having lunch and that facility was good value for money at only £1 for the washing machine and £2 for the dryer. I met a lady in the laundry who was at first a little grumpy because she was complaining about 'communal living' and on clarifying what she meant I understood she considered the terminology described her 'practical union of marriage', but I noted she asked her husband by mobile phone to assist her, which he promptly did. The lady said the drawback of living on a boat in the marina was having to share facilities and it was not the same as having a home where one has privacy.
During the early afternoon there was no let-up of the almost gale force wind, and I was grateful for an offer from a gentleman who owned a Princess 43 motor yacht named, 'Myakka Moon'. His boat was tucked behind a north/south facing pontoon which brought about a calm spot just short of her stern. He suggested I should motor 'Faith' around to that position where he would take my lines so that I would have a more peaceful night than the previous one. In truth, there was no peace last night because of the incessant, strong and bitterly cold wind which caused the sea to be agitated.
Having moved the boat I was able to charge the VHF radio's battery, along with that of my mobile phone. The ship's battery did not need charging because of the effective solar panel.
Yesterday I forgot to give an account of my meeting with Mr Alan Ried aboard 'Orca', a 40 year old Tony Smith trimaran. He and his friend had been sailing an identical vessel off the Needles in very rough weather on 5th November when she was pitch-polled, after which they fought their way to the surface and climbed aboard the upturned hull. As Providence would have it, a German yacht passed within hailing distance and her vigilant crew hearing their whistles responded to see two sailors in their survival gear standing on the upturned hull. The efficient Germans alerted the Coastguard who mobilized their helicopter for the rescue mission which was accomplished before nightfall at five in the afternoon. They were extremely lucky, because prior to the arrival of the Germans no one knew of their plight and the flares they had sent off were not seen; indeed, most probably their distress pyrotechnics would not have been considered as such because it was Guy Fawkes night and fireworks were going off all the time.
This is my fourth night at Brighton Marina awaiting favourable conditions for continuing westwards. As I said yesterday, maybe the wind will moderate so that I can progress westwards, possibly to Ryde on the Isle of Wight or Chichester Harbour in the Solent.
Friday, April 11, 2008
The Cruise - Part 6
The Cruise – Part 6
Fri 11th April
This was another day spent in port because of the strong wind which reached force 7. I took the opportunity to visit the Pavilion, a building of sumptuous elegance designed for entertaining the guests of the Prince Regent, George the 4th. Much of the interior was based on Chinese design with opulent sculpted features such as a dragon high in the ceiling supporting an exquisite chandelier in its mouth. The extravagance and indulgence in the Prince Regent's whims is flabbergasting; I could never have imagined such a passion for the purpose of entertaining and showing off. It was a place where he loved to be surrounded with beautiful women and men of prominent positions. Queen Victoria inherited the property, but she found it unsuitable for her purposes and sold it to the Council of Brighton.
I had lunch in the open area adjacent to the Brighton Museum and there I met a lady who suffered from anxiety and who was looked after by a carer. She told me she was disappointed because she was not allowed to have a holiday with two friends who lived in the New Forest and she wanted me to explain what a 'risk assessment' was because she had failed hers for the holiday, but didn't fully understand what it was all about. As a part of her therapy she was going swimming at the local pool.
The Museum was well worth a visit in view of the excellent exhibits, particularly the huge collection of pottery representing the history of England in many subjects subjects such as entertainment, medicine, sports, et.
Back at the boat the biting cold wind roared across the Marina bringing spray from the breaking waves as they crashed into the jetties and my little boat danced beside the pontoon.
Nigel Davidson kindly charged my computer while I prepared the evening meal and visited the post box at Asda.
Well, tomorrow may be better for sailing and if it is I'll be heading west towards the Isle of Wight or Chichester Harbour.
Fri 11th April
This was another day spent in port because of the strong wind which reached force 7. I took the opportunity to visit the Pavilion, a building of sumptuous elegance designed for entertaining the guests of the Prince Regent, George the 4th. Much of the interior was based on Chinese design with opulent sculpted features such as a dragon high in the ceiling supporting an exquisite chandelier in its mouth. The extravagance and indulgence in the Prince Regent's whims is flabbergasting; I could never have imagined such a passion for the purpose of entertaining and showing off. It was a place where he loved to be surrounded with beautiful women and men of prominent positions. Queen Victoria inherited the property, but she found it unsuitable for her purposes and sold it to the Council of Brighton.
I had lunch in the open area adjacent to the Brighton Museum and there I met a lady who suffered from anxiety and who was looked after by a carer. She told me she was disappointed because she was not allowed to have a holiday with two friends who lived in the New Forest and she wanted me to explain what a 'risk assessment' was because she had failed hers for the holiday, but didn't fully understand what it was all about. As a part of her therapy she was going swimming at the local pool.
The Museum was well worth a visit in view of the excellent exhibits, particularly the huge collection of pottery representing the history of England in many subjects subjects such as entertainment, medicine, sports, et.
Back at the boat the biting cold wind roared across the Marina bringing spray from the breaking waves as they crashed into the jetties and my little boat danced beside the pontoon.
Nigel Davidson kindly charged my computer while I prepared the evening meal and visited the post box at Asda.
Well, tomorrow may be better for sailing and if it is I'll be heading west towards the Isle of Wight or Chichester Harbour.
Thursday, April 10, 2008
The Cruise - Part 5
The Cruise – Part 5
Thursday, 10th April 08
Today was a stay-in-port day. I needed to clean the inside of the boat and rearrange the stowage of food, do some shopping and top up the fuel. The delivery of the fuel tank cap went ahead as planned and I thank Aquatec Marine Engineering of Commerce Way, Lancing, BN15 8TA for their efficiency in delivering the item to the boat as promised. Altogether the time spent in port was very satisfactory while the sun shone and for the first time since starting the cruise the temperature was decidedly warm. I also took the opportunity to ease the edge of a floorboard that had swollen and was sticking.
I lost count of the number of visitors who purposely came to look at 'Faith' with the usual questions and expressions of disbelief or adulation according to their mind set. Before leaving home I should have made information sheets to be handed to the more genuinely interested visitors as Al Law does when he cruises his 'Little Jim'.
The forecast for tomorrow is not encouraging with winds from the south west between force 5 and 6 and gusting with showers or sleet. I'll consider the morning forecast and make a decision whether to attempt sailing to Shoreham or further. Another day in Brighton might be well, as I could explore the town with its many secondhand and antique shops. There's also the pavilion and pier to visit.
Thursday, 10th April 08
Today was a stay-in-port day. I needed to clean the inside of the boat and rearrange the stowage of food, do some shopping and top up the fuel. The delivery of the fuel tank cap went ahead as planned and I thank Aquatec Marine Engineering of Commerce Way, Lancing, BN15 8TA for their efficiency in delivering the item to the boat as promised. Altogether the time spent in port was very satisfactory while the sun shone and for the first time since starting the cruise the temperature was decidedly warm. I also took the opportunity to ease the edge of a floorboard that had swollen and was sticking.
I lost count of the number of visitors who purposely came to look at 'Faith' with the usual questions and expressions of disbelief or adulation according to their mind set. Before leaving home I should have made information sheets to be handed to the more genuinely interested visitors as Al Law does when he cruises his 'Little Jim'.
The forecast for tomorrow is not encouraging with winds from the south west between force 5 and 6 and gusting with showers or sleet. I'll consider the morning forecast and make a decision whether to attempt sailing to Shoreham or further. Another day in Brighton might be well, as I could explore the town with its many secondhand and antique shops. There's also the pavilion and pier to visit.
Wednesday, April 09, 2008
The Cruise - Part 4
Cruise – Part 4
Wed 9th April
There was no wind as 'Faith' left the western entrance to Dover Harbour at 0630; there was a clear sky and the tide was against us. None of this would have been possible with the Honda 2.3 which I've named Sherpa because of its hard work without complaint. To starboard the famous white cliffs looked gleaming white as the sun's rays were reflected towards me. Apart from the usual ferries there were no other boats in sight. Nigel said he would be leaving at 0800 and I knew for sure his 'Nancy Rye' would arrive at Sovereign Yacht Harbour before 'Faith'.
The visibility was so good that I could see the huge nuclear power station at Dungeness 15 miles away on a heading 230. Our speed at 0840 was 5 knots and the white buildings of Folkstone were to starboard about 2 miles.
By 1030 we were rounding the tip of Dungeness. There were many fisherman by the water's edge at the base of a steeply sloping pebbly beach and just as it would be there was a squall and a heavy downpour which made the boat heel more than she had done for a while. A mile further on I was intercepted by the gun range launch who gave instructions that I should stick to a course of 240 to be clear of the firing. The launch took up station to the point where I was to sail and when I reached it a member of the crew requested permission to take photos of my boat.
Late afternoon the sun was dead ahead and as I could not find my sunglasses I had difficulty in seeing where I should be going. As I suspected 'Nancy Rye' overtook 'Faith' about 7 miles before Sovereign Yacht Harbour. It was of no advantage because he stayed in the lock until until I arrived. That was a first for me, as I had never experienced being in a lock before. The yacht harbour is one of those showpieces for the very rich and the cost of staying there for one day is nearly £20.00, irrespective that my yacht is only 4.2 metres!
I didn't fancy exploring Eastbourne, the local town for the Marina, and therefore I determined to set off on Thursday for Brighton Marina.
Thu 10th April
After buying petrol for the next leg I set sail at 0800. Nigel wanted to stay at Eastbourne for a least a day and therefore we may not see each other again on this cruise, although his intention is similar to mine, i.e., sail west.
Rounding Beachy Head against the spring tide brought excitement as my boat raced the overflows close to the impressive white cliffs; at that crucial spot we could only manage just over a knot while a coastguard helicopter hover overhead. I think it was doing its normal morning routine and was not there to make sure I would be OK. I was so close to the red and white lighthouse that I could take some fabulous phots.
Just off Newhaven I was refilling the tank and lost the tank cap and had to improvise with a piece of plastic and a bit of cord. I could not allow sea water spray get into the petrol, neither did I want the petrol spilled by the motion of the boat.
Off Brighton there was an agitated sea caused by the tide against the west wind and the contrast inside the Marina was welcome. The fees for a day there were similar to the previous marina and therefore the sooner I can reach the Solent where I can tuck in on a beach the better, and to make matters worse, the visitors' pontoon has a fault with the electric supply because it was damaged during 'the big storm'.
The forecast for tomorrow does not look too inviting, but whatever happens I have to stay in the marina until the new petrol tank cap arrives.
Wed 9th April
There was no wind as 'Faith' left the western entrance to Dover Harbour at 0630; there was a clear sky and the tide was against us. None of this would have been possible with the Honda 2.3 which I've named Sherpa because of its hard work without complaint. To starboard the famous white cliffs looked gleaming white as the sun's rays were reflected towards me. Apart from the usual ferries there were no other boats in sight. Nigel said he would be leaving at 0800 and I knew for sure his 'Nancy Rye' would arrive at Sovereign Yacht Harbour before 'Faith'.
The visibility was so good that I could see the huge nuclear power station at Dungeness 15 miles away on a heading 230. Our speed at 0840 was 5 knots and the white buildings of Folkstone were to starboard about 2 miles.
By 1030 we were rounding the tip of Dungeness. There were many fisherman by the water's edge at the base of a steeply sloping pebbly beach and just as it would be there was a squall and a heavy downpour which made the boat heel more than she had done for a while. A mile further on I was intercepted by the gun range launch who gave instructions that I should stick to a course of 240 to be clear of the firing. The launch took up station to the point where I was to sail and when I reached it a member of the crew requested permission to take photos of my boat.
Late afternoon the sun was dead ahead and as I could not find my sunglasses I had difficulty in seeing where I should be going. As I suspected 'Nancy Rye' overtook 'Faith' about 7 miles before Sovereign Yacht Harbour. It was of no advantage because he stayed in the lock until until I arrived. That was a first for me, as I had never experienced being in a lock before. The yacht harbour is one of those showpieces for the very rich and the cost of staying there for one day is nearly £20.00, irrespective that my yacht is only 4.2 metres!
I didn't fancy exploring Eastbourne, the local town for the Marina, and therefore I determined to set off on Thursday for Brighton Marina.
Thu 10th April
After buying petrol for the next leg I set sail at 0800. Nigel wanted to stay at Eastbourne for a least a day and therefore we may not see each other again on this cruise, although his intention is similar to mine, i.e., sail west.
Rounding Beachy Head against the spring tide brought excitement as my boat raced the overflows close to the impressive white cliffs; at that crucial spot we could only manage just over a knot while a coastguard helicopter hover overhead. I think it was doing its normal morning routine and was not there to make sure I would be OK. I was so close to the red and white lighthouse that I could take some fabulous phots.
Just off Newhaven I was refilling the tank and lost the tank cap and had to improvise with a piece of plastic and a bit of cord. I could not allow sea water spray get into the petrol, neither did I want the petrol spilled by the motion of the boat.
Off Brighton there was an agitated sea caused by the tide against the west wind and the contrast inside the Marina was welcome. The fees for a day there were similar to the previous marina and therefore the sooner I can reach the Solent where I can tuck in on a beach the better, and to make matters worse, the visitors' pontoon has a fault with the electric supply because it was damaged during 'the big storm'.
The forecast for tomorrow does not look too inviting, but whatever happens I have to stay in the marina until the new petrol tank cap arrives.
Monday, April 07, 2008
The Cruise - Part 3
Cruise Part 3
Sun 6th April – continued
After MacDonald's I went for a walk along the Marine Parade where there was an excellent view of the sea which looked uninviting, particularly where the dredged channel led to the Harbour entrance causing the north going ebb to bring about nasty looking breakers – just the thing to avoid in a small vessel such as 'Faith'. Sleet was falling from heavily ladened black clouds and under those circumstances I was amazed to see two scantily clad young girls sat cross legged on the wet pavement behind the sea wall; they were engaged in a loud conversation, none of which to me was intelligible. Further along the road there were children dodging the waves as they broke over the barricade.
On arriving at the North Breakwater I discovered several fishermen and a women hopefully waiting for bites; one fisherman had caught a dogfish and he informed me it was a member of the shark family. I must admit it looked a bit like a miniature shark, except the upper fin was not at all prominent. At the extreme end of the breakwater there were several excited Japanese youngsters who repeatedly took photos and videos of themselves with their mobile phone cameras. They giggled loudly when viewing the results.
As I donned my 'oilskins' to protect myself from drizzle mixed with sleet, the ferry the 'Euro Enterprise' entered the Outer Harbour. The whole operation was skilfully carried out when she reversed into her docking station. Berthed at the North Breakwater there was a bulk sand carrier named 'Black Deep'. At first I thought she was a dredger, but as far as I could ascertain she did not have a dredge.
The Maritime Museum has a few vessels on display in the Inner Lock Basin; one of them is 'Emanuel' built my Capt Anderson back in 1926; she is a counter stern gaff ketch in restored condition rigged with galvanized steel standing rigging. Her varnished box cabin complete with brass ports and teak laid decks make her a very attractive classic vessel.
Back at my faithful 'Faith' by mid afternoon I made a welcome cup of tea and I was thankful I had not arrived later because the sleet became persistent.
Mon 7th April
As soon as the 'Europa Endeavour' had entered Ramsgate outer harbour I sought permission from Port Control to leave. The time was 0700 and 'Patsy Rye' followed but a short distance. I made full sail in the shelter of the harbour and cut the motor. I laid a course to South Brake buoy, a distance of 4 miles with the wind on the nose, but the flood tide more or less eliminated any leeway whilst adding to our speed giving on average 4 to 5 knots. 'Nancy Rye' motored close inshore to avoid the banks, but I took advantage of the full current. The sailing was brisk and as the sun shone between dark clouds 'Faith' dug her lee chine in deep; spray spattered my spectacles. Well ahead I noticed South Foreland was covered with snow and the wind was bitingly cold; I was grateful I was wearing my thermals as the occasional snow flurry speckled the deck.
A sinister stealth military vessel held station to seaward and a rib was launched from her before racing to a beach north of Deal. After quarter of an hour the speeding boat returned to her mother ship. I can only suppose the crew were practising for when they may be on active duty.
At Deal Bank buoy the courses of 'Nancy Rye' and 'Faith' converged so that we were able to speak. The ancient Walmer Castle of Deal clearly stood out as it was highlighted by the eastern sun; abeam there was another castle and a small lattice pier. No doubt vigilant observers at Dover Patrol, high above and close to the edge of the perpendicular chalk cliffs monitored our progress. Here the current was edging 'Faith' east of her intended course close inshore; therefore I started the motor and took in sail. Shortly afterwards the engine ran out of fuel, but it was not too difficult to refill the tank.
Entering the eastern entrance of Dover Harbour was textbook; fortunately there was no ferry activity and getting into the tidal part of the Marina was routine. There the facilities are good, except for the scorching hot showers.
Maybe tomorrow the weather will be suitable for proceeding westwards.
Sun 6th April – continued
After MacDonald's I went for a walk along the Marine Parade where there was an excellent view of the sea which looked uninviting, particularly where the dredged channel led to the Harbour entrance causing the north going ebb to bring about nasty looking breakers – just the thing to avoid in a small vessel such as 'Faith'. Sleet was falling from heavily ladened black clouds and under those circumstances I was amazed to see two scantily clad young girls sat cross legged on the wet pavement behind the sea wall; they were engaged in a loud conversation, none of which to me was intelligible. Further along the road there were children dodging the waves as they broke over the barricade.
On arriving at the North Breakwater I discovered several fishermen and a women hopefully waiting for bites; one fisherman had caught a dogfish and he informed me it was a member of the shark family. I must admit it looked a bit like a miniature shark, except the upper fin was not at all prominent. At the extreme end of the breakwater there were several excited Japanese youngsters who repeatedly took photos and videos of themselves with their mobile phone cameras. They giggled loudly when viewing the results.
As I donned my 'oilskins' to protect myself from drizzle mixed with sleet, the ferry the 'Euro Enterprise' entered the Outer Harbour. The whole operation was skilfully carried out when she reversed into her docking station. Berthed at the North Breakwater there was a bulk sand carrier named 'Black Deep'. At first I thought she was a dredger, but as far as I could ascertain she did not have a dredge.
The Maritime Museum has a few vessels on display in the Inner Lock Basin; one of them is 'Emanuel' built my Capt Anderson back in 1926; she is a counter stern gaff ketch in restored condition rigged with galvanized steel standing rigging. Her varnished box cabin complete with brass ports and teak laid decks make her a very attractive classic vessel.
Back at my faithful 'Faith' by mid afternoon I made a welcome cup of tea and I was thankful I had not arrived later because the sleet became persistent.
Mon 7th April
As soon as the 'Europa Endeavour' had entered Ramsgate outer harbour I sought permission from Port Control to leave. The time was 0700 and 'Patsy Rye' followed but a short distance. I made full sail in the shelter of the harbour and cut the motor. I laid a course to South Brake buoy, a distance of 4 miles with the wind on the nose, but the flood tide more or less eliminated any leeway whilst adding to our speed giving on average 4 to 5 knots. 'Nancy Rye' motored close inshore to avoid the banks, but I took advantage of the full current. The sailing was brisk and as the sun shone between dark clouds 'Faith' dug her lee chine in deep; spray spattered my spectacles. Well ahead I noticed South Foreland was covered with snow and the wind was bitingly cold; I was grateful I was wearing my thermals as the occasional snow flurry speckled the deck.
A sinister stealth military vessel held station to seaward and a rib was launched from her before racing to a beach north of Deal. After quarter of an hour the speeding boat returned to her mother ship. I can only suppose the crew were practising for when they may be on active duty.
At Deal Bank buoy the courses of 'Nancy Rye' and 'Faith' converged so that we were able to speak. The ancient Walmer Castle of Deal clearly stood out as it was highlighted by the eastern sun; abeam there was another castle and a small lattice pier. No doubt vigilant observers at Dover Patrol, high above and close to the edge of the perpendicular chalk cliffs monitored our progress. Here the current was edging 'Faith' east of her intended course close inshore; therefore I started the motor and took in sail. Shortly afterwards the engine ran out of fuel, but it was not too difficult to refill the tank.
Entering the eastern entrance of Dover Harbour was textbook; fortunately there was no ferry activity and getting into the tidal part of the Marina was routine. There the facilities are good, except for the scorching hot showers.
Maybe tomorrow the weather will be suitable for proceeding westwards.
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