Today a weather record for the warmest day in October for London and the south east was broken. Taking advantage of the situation I applied the last layer of epoxy to the rudder and stock before attempting to join them tomorrow or the next day with a bolt and nut so that they can articulate.
I’ll probably set some copper tubing in both the stock and rudder to act as channels for the bolt so that the rudder and stock can articulate freely. I’ll make a small hole in the aft edge of the rudder, about half way between the top and bottom for attaching a line that will run between the groove on the upper semi-circular curve of the rudder to a cleat on the tiller for lifting or lowering the rudder. Eventually the rudder and stock will be painted in the same colour as the hull.
Thursday, October 27, 2005
Sunday, October 23, 2005
The Mast 9
Surprise, surprise ……… I thought I had applied the last coat of epoxy to the upper part of the mast, but when I examined it yesterday afternoon I discovered solidified drip marks on the underneath side that had occurred during the curing stage. I also found that the epoxy had dripped to the lower side of the sheave slot, which meant there was too tight a fit for the sheave; therefore I had to file away the drip marks and recoat the area with what I hope will be the final layer of epoxy. It really looks quite smart and I’m pleased with the result.
This afternoon I fitted the main halyard sheave, but I had to be really careful when drilling the hole for the spindle, making sure it was at right angles to the slot. I did this a little bit at a time while constantly checking it was correct by using a Douglas Protractor.
I made the spindle from a stainless steel bolt that was marginally thinner than the hole through the sheave. First I removed the head and cut a slot suitable for a scredriver; then I sawed off some of the thread to make the spindle extacly the right length to fit within the thickness of the mast top. There had to be sufficient length either side of the sheave to provide adequate bearing surfaces for the expected loading when hauling up the sail and spars, and for when tightening the luff of the sail. Matt's plan neatly supplies all the information but the measurements are tight, leaving little room for error.
Instead of buying a Windex for the masthead I bought a Hawk wind indicator that has a better mounting device than that of the Windex, but I think the standard of materials used in producing the Hawk are of a lesser quality although they are perfectly adequate for the task in hand. When I next find the opportunity I’ll have a go at fixing the indicator to the masthead by means of its bracket. I particularly like the ease with which it can be mounted and demounted within a fraction of a second.
This afternoon I fitted the main halyard sheave, but I had to be really careful when drilling the hole for the spindle, making sure it was at right angles to the slot. I did this a little bit at a time while constantly checking it was correct by using a Douglas Protractor.
I made the spindle from a stainless steel bolt that was marginally thinner than the hole through the sheave. First I removed the head and cut a slot suitable for a scredriver; then I sawed off some of the thread to make the spindle extacly the right length to fit within the thickness of the mast top. There had to be sufficient length either side of the sheave to provide adequate bearing surfaces for the expected loading when hauling up the sail and spars, and for when tightening the luff of the sail. Matt's plan neatly supplies all the information but the measurements are tight, leaving little room for error.
Instead of buying a Windex for the masthead I bought a Hawk wind indicator that has a better mounting device than that of the Windex, but I think the standard of materials used in producing the Hawk are of a lesser quality although they are perfectly adequate for the task in hand. When I next find the opportunity I’ll have a go at fixing the indicator to the masthead by means of its bracket. I particularly like the ease with which it can be mounted and demounted within a fraction of a second.
Friday, October 21, 2005
The Mast 8
In deference to my wife, I removed the mast from the hall that links our front door with the kitchen. For the last week it has resided in a recumbent position on chocks of wood with plastic bin bags between it and the carpet.
Today I applied the final coat of epoxy over the fibreglass that encapsulates the upper 300 millimetres of the mast. This was necessary to protect areas that had been opened to the elements during the finishing process when I smoothed them with a file, but instead of taking the mast into the house I built a tarp frame around it in the garage to keep it warm by the use of an electric fan heater. All being well, the epoxy should harden fairly quickly in this temporary greenhouse.
Most of the afternoon was taken up with time set aside for buying the metal parts required for my Paradox micro-sailboat. I bought the rudder bolt, the tiller bolts, the lower gudgeon bolts, the mast sheave, the bolts for retaining the hatch slider and the lag bolt for the yuloh. The latter will have to be modified by welding and grinding. I also bought the panel headed screws for attaching the Perspex windows, the brass piano hinges with screws to match for fixing the tops of the under-floor storage lockers and the small gauge copper pipes for both of the water tanks’ breathing tubes.
Today I applied the final coat of epoxy over the fibreglass that encapsulates the upper 300 millimetres of the mast. This was necessary to protect areas that had been opened to the elements during the finishing process when I smoothed them with a file, but instead of taking the mast into the house I built a tarp frame around it in the garage to keep it warm by the use of an electric fan heater. All being well, the epoxy should harden fairly quickly in this temporary greenhouse.
Most of the afternoon was taken up with time set aside for buying the metal parts required for my Paradox micro-sailboat. I bought the rudder bolt, the tiller bolts, the lower gudgeon bolts, the mast sheave, the bolts for retaining the hatch slider and the lag bolt for the yuloh. The latter will have to be modified by welding and grinding. I also bought the panel headed screws for attaching the Perspex windows, the brass piano hinges with screws to match for fixing the tops of the under-floor storage lockers and the small gauge copper pipes for both of the water tanks’ breathing tubes.
Thursday, October 20, 2005
The Mast 7
Building a Paradox micro-sailboat requires many applications of epoxy, because almost everything that needs joining is welded together with it. This medium takes a minimum of 24 hours to cure, and longer if loads are to be placed upon it.
While building the mast there been four occasions when I’ve used epoxy; initially when making the mast itself, and yesterday and today when I encapsulated the upper end of the spar with fibreglass. After I’ve tidied up today’s work I’ll need to apply one or two more coats of epoxy to make sure everything is well sealed against the elements.
Because of the nature of Paradox’s structure, many small items have to be fashioned, then joined together with epoxy, which means short periods of time can be utilized; therefore she’s an ideal boat building project for those who can only spare an hour or so, one or two days a week. On the other hand, the person who is fortunate enough to be able to spend longer periods working on her can break each day into sessions for building different parts of the boat; for example, he could make a bulkhead complete with cleats and floors in the morning, and while the epoxy is setting he could work on the boom or the rudder in the afternoon. By keeping several items on the go, the full-time builder can be fully occupied.
Rain is forecast for tomorrow, but I’ll try tidying the fibreglass I did today by smoothing any irregularities and applying epoxy. In a couple of days, when it has hardened, I’ll fit the sheave; meanwhile I’ll be able to start building the boom, complete with its reefing system comprising a drum and support rods.
While building the mast there been four occasions when I’ve used epoxy; initially when making the mast itself, and yesterday and today when I encapsulated the upper end of the spar with fibreglass. After I’ve tidied up today’s work I’ll need to apply one or two more coats of epoxy to make sure everything is well sealed against the elements.
Because of the nature of Paradox’s structure, many small items have to be fashioned, then joined together with epoxy, which means short periods of time can be utilized; therefore she’s an ideal boat building project for those who can only spare an hour or so, one or two days a week. On the other hand, the person who is fortunate enough to be able to spend longer periods working on her can break each day into sessions for building different parts of the boat; for example, he could make a bulkhead complete with cleats and floors in the morning, and while the epoxy is setting he could work on the boom or the rudder in the afternoon. By keeping several items on the go, the full-time builder can be fully occupied.
Rain is forecast for tomorrow, but I’ll try tidying the fibreglass I did today by smoothing any irregularities and applying epoxy. In a couple of days, when it has hardened, I’ll fit the sheave; meanwhile I’ll be able to start building the boom, complete with its reefing system comprising a drum and support rods.
Wednesday, October 19, 2005
The Mast 6
The mast has taken on its final shape, apart from the area around the base, which will provide some latitude when it comes to matching the mast to the support socket.
Yesterday I made the final touches to the mast with a plane and sandpaper, bringing about a rather pleasing result. I was surprised at the slenderness of the upper part of the spar, but that’s exactly where economy of weight is needed, along with flexibility for dissipating sudden loading in gusty conditions.
Today I enlarged the slot for the sheave in readiness for applying four coats of 6 oz fibreglass. Just before the dew began to fall I managed to epoxy two coats of fibreglass around the top 300 millimetres of the mast, according to Matt’s design.
After trying to buy a sheave 12 millimetres by 30 millimetres without success, I recycled one I found in my bosun’s spares box, but I must obtain a suitable stainless steel spindle for fitting it after the final layers of fibreglass have hardened.
While out shopping for the sheave I looked at a couple of Windex models, but neither seemed suitable for Paradox, because one did not have a suitable mounting base and the other required fitting to a masthead aerial for a VHF set. Incidentally, I’ll use a hand held, mobile VHF.
The forecast is not too brilliant for tomorrow; therefore I am doubtful I’ll be able to apply the remaining fibreglass until suitable conditions prevail.
Yesterday I made the final touches to the mast with a plane and sandpaper, bringing about a rather pleasing result. I was surprised at the slenderness of the upper part of the spar, but that’s exactly where economy of weight is needed, along with flexibility for dissipating sudden loading in gusty conditions.
Today I enlarged the slot for the sheave in readiness for applying four coats of 6 oz fibreglass. Just before the dew began to fall I managed to epoxy two coats of fibreglass around the top 300 millimetres of the mast, according to Matt’s design.
After trying to buy a sheave 12 millimetres by 30 millimetres without success, I recycled one I found in my bosun’s spares box, but I must obtain a suitable stainless steel spindle for fitting it after the final layers of fibreglass have hardened.
While out shopping for the sheave I looked at a couple of Windex models, but neither seemed suitable for Paradox, because one did not have a suitable mounting base and the other required fitting to a masthead aerial for a VHF set. Incidentally, I’ll use a hand held, mobile VHF.
The forecast is not too brilliant for tomorrow; therefore I am doubtful I’ll be able to apply the remaining fibreglass until suitable conditions prevail.
Monday, October 17, 2005
The Mast 5
I made good progress with the mast today by fitting an all round white masthead light and its flex. I also glued the front piece between the two side pieces. At the time of drafting this, the mast occupies the corridor between the front door and the kitchen, where it can be kept warm while the epoxy hardens.
Jobs yet to be done are the rounding of all four corners along the sides; fixing the conduit for a small section of the flex bypassing the sheave slot; encasing the upper section of the mast in fibreglass, including the sides of the sheave slot; installing the sheave; fitting a burgee halyard with its cleat; attaching a leather band to prevent wear from the boom, and coating the mast with Deks Ole or paint. I may add a Windex at the masthead.
Jobs yet to be done are the rounding of all four corners along the sides; fixing the conduit for a small section of the flex bypassing the sheave slot; encasing the upper section of the mast in fibreglass, including the sides of the sheave slot; installing the sheave; fitting a burgee halyard with its cleat; attaching a leather band to prevent wear from the boom, and coating the mast with Deks Ole or paint. I may add a Windex at the masthead.
Sunday, October 16, 2005
The Mast 4
Yesterday I did a bit more shaping of the mast, and cut the slot for the main halyard sheave.
I’ll build the all round masthead light into the very top of the mast and I’ll lead the flex through a conduit bypassing the area of the sheave to a point below the upper plug, where it will enter the mast’s hollow section. From there it’ll be tacked in place to prevent it tapping the mast when the boat is moved by wave action. The flex will pass through a watertight hole near the base of the mast; then be attached to a plug for connecting it to the ship’s battery.
When the light has been built into the mast I’ll glue the front section in place before finally giving the mast its designed profile.
Rather than using varnish or paint on the mast, I’ll most probably apply Deks Ole. This will be easier to maintain than varnish, while looking just as attractive.
I’ll build the all round masthead light into the very top of the mast and I’ll lead the flex through a conduit bypassing the area of the sheave to a point below the upper plug, where it will enter the mast’s hollow section. From there it’ll be tacked in place to prevent it tapping the mast when the boat is moved by wave action. The flex will pass through a watertight hole near the base of the mast; then be attached to a plug for connecting it to the ship’s battery.
When the light has been built into the mast I’ll glue the front section in place before finally giving the mast its designed profile.
Rather than using varnish or paint on the mast, I’ll most probably apply Deks Ole. This will be easier to maintain than varnish, while looking just as attractive.
Wednesday, October 12, 2005
The Mast 3
A couple of days ago I fiddled around with the front piece of the mast to make it fit snugly within the side pieces. Since then I’ve not done any more to it, because I had to sort out in my mind how best to install the white all-round masthead light and its flex.
After reading replies to my questions on the subject from subscribers of the Paradox Builders Yahoo! Group, I’ve come to the conclusion I’ll need to make the flex bypass the area near to the main halyard sheave, and a suitable way of doing it is to use an external channel or conduit through which to lead the flex in this delicate area near the top of the mast.
From the lower end of the conduit the flex will enter the hollow interior of the mast and be held in place with something like insulation pipe lagging, to prevent it banging the sides of the mast when the boat is under way and at anchor. Near the bottom of the mast the wire will be joined to an electrical socket inserted in the wall of the mast; thus, a plug attached to a flex from the battery can be plugged into the socket to supply the necessary power.
As the electrical current will be controlled by a light sensor there will be no need to have a switch for turning it on and off.
Today it has been raining; therefore I have preferred not to continue shaping and assembling the mast, because the confines of the garage are too restrictive. Depending on the forthcoming weather, I’ll go ahead with the electrical installation and finish gluing the mast. When the epoxy has hardened I’ll need to do the finishing touches to the woodwork, prior to applying several coats of Deks Ole.
After reading replies to my questions on the subject from subscribers of the Paradox Builders Yahoo! Group, I’ve come to the conclusion I’ll need to make the flex bypass the area near to the main halyard sheave, and a suitable way of doing it is to use an external channel or conduit through which to lead the flex in this delicate area near the top of the mast.
From the lower end of the conduit the flex will enter the hollow interior of the mast and be held in place with something like insulation pipe lagging, to prevent it banging the sides of the mast when the boat is under way and at anchor. Near the bottom of the mast the wire will be joined to an electrical socket inserted in the wall of the mast; thus, a plug attached to a flex from the battery can be plugged into the socket to supply the necessary power.
As the electrical current will be controlled by a light sensor there will be no need to have a switch for turning it on and off.
Today it has been raining; therefore I have preferred not to continue shaping and assembling the mast, because the confines of the garage are too restrictive. Depending on the forthcoming weather, I’ll go ahead with the electrical installation and finish gluing the mast. When the epoxy has hardened I’ll need to do the finishing touches to the woodwork, prior to applying several coats of Deks Ole.
Friday, October 07, 2005
The Mast 2
Instead of inserting the end plugs into the top and bottom of the mast, I decided it would be better to glue them into position when fixing the side panels to the bottom piece.
After spending an hour or so refining the shape of the front and back pieces, I glued the side panels to the back piece. Since the back of the mast was dead straight it was easy to line up the side panels with the back piece.
All this was done in the kitchen, where I placed the pieces on the upright backs of some chairs that had been covered with plastic bin bags. After protecting the floor with newspaper, I applied epoxy to all surfaces to be joined; then I thickened the remaining epoxy, by adding colloidal silica, before over-coating the same surfaces with the thickened epoxy. Clamping the side panels to the bottom piece was a messy operation, because some of the epoxy squelched out as I tightened the clamps, but I made a point of not tightening the clamps too hard to avoid starvation of epoxy between surfaces.
An advantage of doing the job in the kitchen was the warmer temperature, which made it easier to mix and apply the epoxy. Outside it was a little too cold and the air was somewhat damp.
It seems to me that I shall be able to make the frames, cleats and floors in the garage prior assembling them in the kitchen, but before that, I need to finish the mast, with its light and internal flex; then the yard and boom. I’ll not be able to start the boom until a new piece of Douglas fir arrives from Robbins, because the piece they supplied was too thin by 7 millimetres, but all the other planed wood was excellent on all counts.
After spending an hour or so refining the shape of the front and back pieces, I glued the side panels to the back piece. Since the back of the mast was dead straight it was easy to line up the side panels with the back piece.
All this was done in the kitchen, where I placed the pieces on the upright backs of some chairs that had been covered with plastic bin bags. After protecting the floor with newspaper, I applied epoxy to all surfaces to be joined; then I thickened the remaining epoxy, by adding colloidal silica, before over-coating the same surfaces with the thickened epoxy. Clamping the side panels to the bottom piece was a messy operation, because some of the epoxy squelched out as I tightened the clamps, but I made a point of not tightening the clamps too hard to avoid starvation of epoxy between surfaces.
An advantage of doing the job in the kitchen was the warmer temperature, which made it easier to mix and apply the epoxy. Outside it was a little too cold and the air was somewhat damp.
It seems to me that I shall be able to make the frames, cleats and floors in the garage prior assembling them in the kitchen, but before that, I need to finish the mast, with its light and internal flex; then the yard and boom. I’ll not be able to start the boom until a new piece of Douglas fir arrives from Robbins, because the piece they supplied was too thin by 7 millimetres, but all the other planed wood was excellent on all counts.
Thursday, October 06, 2005
The Mast
I’ve been able to find a few hours for working on the Douglas fir mast.
On Wednesday I shaped the front and back pieces, making them almost identical; except I made the front piece a bit longer than the back one, because when I assemble the mast, it will have to take the form of a curve, whereas the former piece will remain straight. I chamfered the inner surfaces to form a tapered top and to keep the mast hollow throughout which will reduce the weight and provide a channel for the wires leading to the masthead light.
Today I shaped the side pieces by using a hand saw and a Stanley block plane.
Tomorrow, if I can find enough epoxy, I may glue the side pieces to the back piece; then when possible I shall fit the front piece to the leading edge by gluing and clamping it between the side pieces. I shall use small, thin bits of plywood glued to the inner sides of the side pieces to prevent the front piece from falling between the sides when being glued and clamped to them.
When the masthead light and its wire have been installed and the epoxy has hardened, I’ll round of the outer corners of the mast by using a plane; this will be the time to make sure the cross-sections are correct according to measurements shown on the plan.
At the top and bottom of the mast I’ll insert plugs which will make it airtight, while also providing strength were needed, especially where the slot for the main halyard sheave will be offset at a 60 degree angle from the fore and aft line
Finally, I’ll sand the whole mast and coat it with Deks Ole, which is a wood preservative that soaks into the grain and is easier to maintain than varnish.
On Wednesday I shaped the front and back pieces, making them almost identical; except I made the front piece a bit longer than the back one, because when I assemble the mast, it will have to take the form of a curve, whereas the former piece will remain straight. I chamfered the inner surfaces to form a tapered top and to keep the mast hollow throughout which will reduce the weight and provide a channel for the wires leading to the masthead light.
Today I shaped the side pieces by using a hand saw and a Stanley block plane.
Tomorrow, if I can find enough epoxy, I may glue the side pieces to the back piece; then when possible I shall fit the front piece to the leading edge by gluing and clamping it between the side pieces. I shall use small, thin bits of plywood glued to the inner sides of the side pieces to prevent the front piece from falling between the sides when being glued and clamped to them.
When the masthead light and its wire have been installed and the epoxy has hardened, I’ll round of the outer corners of the mast by using a plane; this will be the time to make sure the cross-sections are correct according to measurements shown on the plan.
At the top and bottom of the mast I’ll insert plugs which will make it airtight, while also providing strength were needed, especially where the slot for the main halyard sheave will be offset at a 60 degree angle from the fore and aft line
Finally, I’ll sand the whole mast and coat it with Deks Ole, which is a wood preservative that soaks into the grain and is easier to maintain than varnish.
Friday, September 30, 2005
10 Little Pigs – what next?
I’ve now completed the initial batch of 10 lead ballast pigs, each weighing about 11.5 kilos; that leaves me with a choice as to what I should do next.
If only the weather would stabilize into a warm dry spell, I’d be able to have a go at the mast. The problem is that most of my building efforts have to be done outside on the driveway, because there just isn’t enough room in the garage as it’s set out at the moment. Even the wood and plywood for building the hull is taking up far too much space. Somehow, I’ll need to solve the storage deficiency so that I’ll be able to have room for making things in the garage during the winter.
Because my efforts have been on finishing the ‘10 little pigs’, I’ve not completed the rudder and stock, which both need to have their surfaces smoothed before being yoked together with a nut and bolt. I’ll not be fixing the tiller to the stock until I can be sure of the exact position by trying it out when the hull has been assembled.
If only the weather would stabilize into a warm dry spell, I’d be able to have a go at the mast. The problem is that most of my building efforts have to be done outside on the driveway, because there just isn’t enough room in the garage as it’s set out at the moment. Even the wood and plywood for building the hull is taking up far too much space. Somehow, I’ll need to solve the storage deficiency so that I’ll be able to have room for making things in the garage during the winter.
Because my efforts have been on finishing the ‘10 little pigs’, I’ve not completed the rudder and stock, which both need to have their surfaces smoothed before being yoked together with a nut and bolt. I’ll not be fixing the tiller to the stock until I can be sure of the exact position by trying it out when the hull has been assembled.
Thursday, September 29, 2005
Seventh Pig
I had a surprise while heating lead for the seventh pig, when a hole suddenly appeared in the much used saucepan and lead poured onto the concrete driveway leading to my garage. As usual I was using two heat sources: the gas ring and a blow torch, both of which I immediately turned off. This meant I had to buy another saucepan about the same diameter and depth as the broken one. The cheapest I could find that would do the job was just under £10.00! Most were in the region of £18.00.
As I was driving home from the shop where I bought the saucepan it dawned on me that it was made from aluminium, which, when under extreme temperature, can catch fire, as a warship in the Faulkland war did after being hit by a missile.
Nevertheless I went ahead and melted lead in the new saucepan and it showed no signs of bursting into flame, but I did take the precaution of heating it only on the gas ring.
The average weight of the ballast pigs is 11.5 kilos and with a minimum of 10, that’ll bring the fixed ballast to 115 kilos, 65 kilos less than the maximum permitted according the boat plans.
There are three more pigs yet to be made.
As I was driving home from the shop where I bought the saucepan it dawned on me that it was made from aluminium, which, when under extreme temperature, can catch fire, as a warship in the Faulkland war did after being hit by a missile.
Nevertheless I went ahead and melted lead in the new saucepan and it showed no signs of bursting into flame, but I did take the precaution of heating it only on the gas ring.
The average weight of the ballast pigs is 11.5 kilos and with a minimum of 10, that’ll bring the fixed ballast to 115 kilos, 65 kilos less than the maximum permitted according the boat plans.
There are three more pigs yet to be made.
Tuesday, September 27, 2005
Sixth Pig etc
My prognostications about having to buy at least another two bread pans for moulds may prove pessimistic, as I've now made six lead ballast pigs with the original bread pan - even the saucepan is holding out, although its metal has somewhat fatigued.
By using two heat sources concurrently I've been able to bring the waiting time down for casting a pig to 50 minutes. To help speed up the process I created a shelter for the heating area with one of those wind brakes found on beaches, because the cooling effect of the wind can be significant.
Practice makes perfect - so the saying goes - and by repetition I've been able to improve my lead cutting technique when making small bits of it by using a pair of old garden shears. While standing before a bench I first cut strips from the flashing about 2 inches wide which I subsequently chop into pieces about an inch wide. As the lead melts in the saucepan I add pieces until there's enough to fill the mould.
After casting four more pigs, bringing the total to ten, I'll not make any more until I may need them for trimming the boat. Each pig has to be firmly secured to the floor of the boat in a specific position according to Matt's design – I'll be saying more about this when the time comes.
I'm uncertain what to tackle next after casting the tenth pig, because I shall be using epoxy which requires a reasonably warm temperature, say 15 degrees Celsius or more, and autumn is fast approaching bringing distinctly cooler weather. Of the smaller pieces remaining to build there are the mast, spars and the stem, but I've yet to finish the rudder and stock by applying a final coat of epoxy to bring about a smooth surface.
By using two heat sources concurrently I've been able to bring the waiting time down for casting a pig to 50 minutes. To help speed up the process I created a shelter for the heating area with one of those wind brakes found on beaches, because the cooling effect of the wind can be significant.
Practice makes perfect - so the saying goes - and by repetition I've been able to improve my lead cutting technique when making small bits of it by using a pair of old garden shears. While standing before a bench I first cut strips from the flashing about 2 inches wide which I subsequently chop into pieces about an inch wide. As the lead melts in the saucepan I add pieces until there's enough to fill the mould.
After casting four more pigs, bringing the total to ten, I'll not make any more until I may need them for trimming the boat. Each pig has to be firmly secured to the floor of the boat in a specific position according to Matt's design – I'll be saying more about this when the time comes.
I'm uncertain what to tackle next after casting the tenth pig, because I shall be using epoxy which requires a reasonably warm temperature, say 15 degrees Celsius or more, and autumn is fast approaching bringing distinctly cooler weather. Of the smaller pieces remaining to build there are the mast, spars and the stem, but I've yet to finish the rudder and stock by applying a final coat of epoxy to bring about a smooth surface.
Saturday, September 24, 2005
Third Pig
With the aid of a new burner powered by a 907 cartridge of Calor Gaz it only took an hour to melt and cast a pig of lead weighing about 12 kilos, but the bread pan in which the pig was made already shows signs of deterioration. It has two bumps which I inadvertently did when extricating the cold lead by the use of a wooden mallet. At this rate I’ll have to buy at least another two pans for casting seven more pigs for the completion of my initial batch of ten.
I’m learning slowly by my mistakes; therefore anyone intent on making lead ballast; please learn from my painful errors.
Take the time to weigh the lead which should be chopped into small pieces before casting the first pig. When the lead is fully molten and the dross floating on the top has been removed with a wooden spoon, make a mental note where the level of the lead is on the saucepan; that will enable you to make subsequent pigs all the same weight without the need to weigh the lead – simply keep adding lead until the correct level is reached, and use gloves to avoid contact with it, as lead is poisonous by absorption through the skin.
For thin lead such as the sheet type used for flashing tiles on roofs, cut it into small pieces with old garden shears, but for more solid lead like old plumbing pipes, saw them into manageable bits by means of a band saw with large teeth; note that saws with small teeth, such as hacksaws, are not a bit of good for the job because they clog up and jam. To help saw lead more easily lubricate the blade with ordinary oil.
Make sure your saucepan for melting the lead is not too large for the burner; otherwise the lead will remain cool on the sides of the pan where the heat cannot reach by conduction. I discovered this when I tried to melt lead in a large galvanized bucket. Also allow the first small quantity of lead to melt thoroughly before adding more lead. As the bulk of it becomes molten, more and more un-melted lead can progressively be added until the final amount is arrived at.
A saucepan with two handles is better than one having a single handle, because it is easier to control and lift when pouring the molten lead slowly into the mould. By the way, dig a hole in the ground the exact size and shape of the bread pan, so that it can be supported horizontally with no chance of spilling the liquefied lead.
Your lead will melt more quickly if the pan is covered with a lid which can also be used as a shield when adding more lead to protect your eyes from spattering. As an additional precaution, wear goggles.
I’m learning slowly by my mistakes; therefore anyone intent on making lead ballast; please learn from my painful errors.
Take the time to weigh the lead which should be chopped into small pieces before casting the first pig. When the lead is fully molten and the dross floating on the top has been removed with a wooden spoon, make a mental note where the level of the lead is on the saucepan; that will enable you to make subsequent pigs all the same weight without the need to weigh the lead – simply keep adding lead until the correct level is reached, and use gloves to avoid contact with it, as lead is poisonous by absorption through the skin.
For thin lead such as the sheet type used for flashing tiles on roofs, cut it into small pieces with old garden shears, but for more solid lead like old plumbing pipes, saw them into manageable bits by means of a band saw with large teeth; note that saws with small teeth, such as hacksaws, are not a bit of good for the job because they clog up and jam. To help saw lead more easily lubricate the blade with ordinary oil.
Make sure your saucepan for melting the lead is not too large for the burner; otherwise the lead will remain cool on the sides of the pan where the heat cannot reach by conduction. I discovered this when I tried to melt lead in a large galvanized bucket. Also allow the first small quantity of lead to melt thoroughly before adding more lead. As the bulk of it becomes molten, more and more un-melted lead can progressively be added until the final amount is arrived at.
A saucepan with two handles is better than one having a single handle, because it is easier to control and lift when pouring the molten lead slowly into the mould. By the way, dig a hole in the ground the exact size and shape of the bread pan, so that it can be supported horizontally with no chance of spilling the liquefied lead.
Your lead will melt more quickly if the pan is covered with a lid which can also be used as a shield when adding more lead to protect your eyes from spattering. As an additional precaution, wear goggles.
Friday, September 23, 2005
Slow Progress
Yesterday I only managed to produce one lead ballast pig, but not after a struggle, because the wind and ambient temperature conspired together to prevent the lead melting; the main reason for ineffectual heating was the inadequate power source – in truth the Butane painter’s torch. Accordingly, today I bought a proper single burner from Camping and General that can be powered by either Butane or Propane.
Perhaps tomorrow I may be able to find time for making my third lead pig. I may also finish applying epoxy to the rudder and stock.
Perhaps tomorrow I may be able to find time for making my third lead pig. I may also finish applying epoxy to the rudder and stock.
Tuesday, September 20, 2005
Rudder, Stock and Lead Pig
Apart from drilling the holes for the bolt holding the rudder in place and finishing them to prevent water ingress, I’ve almost completed the rudder and stock; only the final coat of thickened epoxy needs applying, but not before I’ve smoothed their surfaces by using fine sandpaper. Because each side of the rudder and stock have to be done separately, it’ll be another two days before they can be finished. Of course, the time will arrive when the whole of the boat’s exterior will need painting, including the rudder and stock; however that’s not likely to come about until next year, or perhaps 2007! It depends on how much time I can put aside for building her.
In line with my plan to make as many of the small items I can before assembling the hull, I cast the first pig of lead today. To begin with, I did not have much success in getting the lead to melt, because I used a galvanized bucket that was far too large for the Butane painter’s torch to heat up. I therefore resorted to using the saucepan in which I had heated the lead rudder weight; this was satisfactory, but I had to hold the rim of the saucepan with a mole grip in my left hand while I held the handle of the saucepan with my right hand as I carefully poured the molten lead into a bread pan; both hands were required because of the weight of the lead.
Taking Don Elliott’s advice, I had previously set the bread pan in the earth level with its brim to help absorb heat from the pan and to give it support. Don suggests that initially one should make eight of these pigs, but as my first one weighs 10 kilos, I think I should cast ten of them, bringing the total fixed ballast to 100 kilos; then if I should need more for trimming the boat, I’ll be able to do them at my leisure. Matt’s plans indicate there should be between 70 and 180 kilos of ballast.
In line with my plan to make as many of the small items I can before assembling the hull, I cast the first pig of lead today. To begin with, I did not have much success in getting the lead to melt, because I used a galvanized bucket that was far too large for the Butane painter’s torch to heat up. I therefore resorted to using the saucepan in which I had heated the lead rudder weight; this was satisfactory, but I had to hold the rim of the saucepan with a mole grip in my left hand while I held the handle of the saucepan with my right hand as I carefully poured the molten lead into a bread pan; both hands were required because of the weight of the lead.
Taking Don Elliott’s advice, I had previously set the bread pan in the earth level with its brim to help absorb heat from the pan and to give it support. Don suggests that initially one should make eight of these pigs, but as my first one weighs 10 kilos, I think I should cast ten of them, bringing the total fixed ballast to 100 kilos; then if I should need more for trimming the boat, I’ll be able to do them at my leisure. Matt’s plans indicate there should be between 70 and 180 kilos of ballast.
Saturday, September 17, 2005
Rudder and Stock Saga
After adding more tape around the edges of both the stock and rudder I gave them a day to harden; then I smoothed uneven surfaces with a course, flat file. In preparation for skimming the surfaces with thickened epoxy I lightly abraded them with the same file. Afterwards I used a squeegee to spread the epoxy so as to fill minute hollows between the weave and the weft of the woven roving. Where it was not possible to use the squeegee, such as the forward facing area of the stock, I used a paint brush to apply an even layer of thickened epoxy.
As this was the first time I’ve tried the technique I await with some apprehension the result when it has hardened. How much sanding will be needed to make surfaces really smooth, and how many more coats, if any, will be necessary to bring about a professional finish? That remains to be seen.
I can anticipate several days passing before both the stock and the rudder will be finished; that’s not because there’s a lot to be done, but because between each application of epoxy I have to wait at least 24 hours.
Such a process could well go in parallel with making other parts of the boat the same day, but demands on my time often do not permit it. Unless the weather is warm and fine, and I am able to spend more time on the project, I can see building my dream boat will take a fair while.
As this was the first time I’ve tried the technique I await with some apprehension the result when it has hardened. How much sanding will be needed to make surfaces really smooth, and how many more coats, if any, will be necessary to bring about a professional finish? That remains to be seen.
I can anticipate several days passing before both the stock and the rudder will be finished; that’s not because there’s a lot to be done, but because between each application of epoxy I have to wait at least 24 hours.
Such a process could well go in parallel with making other parts of the boat the same day, but demands on my time often do not permit it. Unless the weather is warm and fine, and I am able to spend more time on the project, I can see building my dream boat will take a fair while.
Thursday, September 15, 2005
Rudder and Stock Again
When I started making the rudder and stock I did not realize how much work would be needed to complete them. Shaping them from plywood took long enough, and now I am sheathing them with one coat of 6 oz woven roving. I’ve used fibreglass tape to wrap around sharp edges.
In practice it is not supposed to be possible to make woven roving bend around a sharp edge, but thin tape will sit quite well on a 90 degree turn, providing there is just a little convex curvature along the edge. Where there’s an absolutely sharp 90 degree turn at an edge, then I agree woven roving cannot be made to conform to adjacent surfaces.
One trick I have found useful is to wait ten or fifteen minutes after softening the tape or woven roving at the edges with epoxy, then make it comply with the form by pushing and prodding it with a brush. Even five hours after applying epoxy when it is dry to the touch, woven roving can be squeezed or pushed into place with ones fingers.
When all surfaces of the rudder and stock have been sheathed, I’ll need to wash them with a little detergent; then after they are dry, I’ll have to fill the small cavities that naturally occur within the woven roving. To do this I’ll use soft filler powder mixed with epoxy, applied with a squeegee.
Finally, I’ll attach the upper pintle, but that cannot be done until I am certain where to fix it, and that will not be possible until the transom is in place and the lower special gudgeon has been fixed to it.
In practice it is not supposed to be possible to make woven roving bend around a sharp edge, but thin tape will sit quite well on a 90 degree turn, providing there is just a little convex curvature along the edge. Where there’s an absolutely sharp 90 degree turn at an edge, then I agree woven roving cannot be made to conform to adjacent surfaces.
One trick I have found useful is to wait ten or fifteen minutes after softening the tape or woven roving at the edges with epoxy, then make it comply with the form by pushing and prodding it with a brush. Even five hours after applying epoxy when it is dry to the touch, woven roving can be squeezed or pushed into place with ones fingers.
When all surfaces of the rudder and stock have been sheathed, I’ll need to wash them with a little detergent; then after they are dry, I’ll have to fill the small cavities that naturally occur within the woven roving. To do this I’ll use soft filler powder mixed with epoxy, applied with a squeegee.
Finally, I’ll attach the upper pintle, but that cannot be done until I am certain where to fix it, and that will not be possible until the transom is in place and the lower special gudgeon has been fixed to it.
Monday, September 12, 2005
Special Sander and Glassing the Rudder
In the building manual produced by Don Elliott for the Paradox there are instructions for making a sander from plywood; it uses 3 inch wide sandpaper from an electric belt sanding machine. I made my own according to Don’s design and it works well.
When the rudder and stock have been glassed and the woven roving has been filled and smoothed, I’ll use the sander to bring about a good finish before coating them with epoxy.
To see a picture of the sanding tool, please visit http://www.smallsailboats.co.uk/paradox/con_gallery.htm .
When the rudder and stock have been glassed and the woven roving has been filled and smoothed, I’ll use the sander to bring about a good finish before coating them with epoxy.
To see a picture of the sanding tool, please visit http://www.smallsailboats.co.uk/paradox/con_gallery.htm .
Saturday, September 10, 2005
Lead Weight & Special Tool
Yesterday I smoothed the lead in the rudder by using a course file and sandpaper; then I filled any irregularities with thickened epoxy. A photo of the finished weight will be posted to http://www.smallsailboats.co.uk/paradox/con_gallery.htm where I am keeping a visual record of how I am building my Paradox micro-sailboat.
Today I made one of Don Elliott’s special tools for building Paradox; it was a sanding board utilizing belt-sander strips. It’s made from half inch plywood 16.5 inches long and 3 inches wide. There are two stout handles at either end so that the user can enter into a rhythm when sanding flat surfaces such as the GRP sheathing and epoxy filler that encapsulates the hull and rudder. This tool can also be used for rounding edges prior to sheathing them.
Next week I’ll be able to test my skills at applying the GRP sheathing to the rudder and stock. I have bought a squeegee for distributing the epoxy evenly throughout the woven roving and for applying the epoxy filler. I have an angle grinder with a 60 grit sheet, which should be ideal for sanding any rough irregularities caused by poor application.
Today I made one of Don Elliott’s special tools for building Paradox; it was a sanding board utilizing belt-sander strips. It’s made from half inch plywood 16.5 inches long and 3 inches wide. There are two stout handles at either end so that the user can enter into a rhythm when sanding flat surfaces such as the GRP sheathing and epoxy filler that encapsulates the hull and rudder. This tool can also be used for rounding edges prior to sheathing them.
Next week I’ll be able to test my skills at applying the GRP sheathing to the rudder and stock. I have bought a squeegee for distributing the epoxy evenly throughout the woven roving and for applying the epoxy filler. I have an angle grinder with a 60 grit sheet, which should be ideal for sanding any rough irregularities caused by poor application.
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