Road Trailer Wheel Bearings – ‘Sandpiper’ Part2

Rusty bearing race

As I suspected, the nearside outer wheel bearing was rusty. Getting the hub off the axel was not at all difficult. After removing the retaining nut, I gave the hub a sharp blow with a wooden mallet and it flew off.

My third phone call brought the good news that replacement bearings were available at Basildon. An hour-and-a-half later, with a shiny, new set of bearings in my hand, I was home in time for lunch. Having eaten to increase my energy levels, I set about inserting new outer bearings, but not before squelching grease into all of their nooks and crannies. I didn’t think I would enjoy having dollops of grease on my hands, but I found it fun.

Rusty tapered sheave

A neighbour remarked that what I had done must be quite satisfying, and I had to agree. I think another neighbour was amazed that I had succeeded in doing the job, and I must admit that I surprised myself.

Hub back on the axel

As far as I can see, the trailer should be good for many more miles, providing I do not let water enter the wheel bearings. I observed that water did not enter the inner bearings because they were sealed with rubber rings. Therefore, if I can prevent water seeping in between the edges of the hubcaps and their tiny breather holes, all should be well. To bring that about I have greased the joints between the hub caps and the hubs, and before I launch the boat I shall cover the breather holes with small pieces of insulation tape. I shall make sure the bearings have cooled by not launching too soon after arriving at a slipway.

Before tapping in the hubcap

Time taken to replace the bearings prevented me from launching the boat today; therefore I am hoping I shall be able to do it tomorrow shortly before high water – most likely at Burnham Yacht Harbour.

I am pleased that I became aware of the defective bearings, because had I taken the trailer for an appreciable distance, the nearside wheel could have seized because of overheating. By replacing the bearings I have saved a bit of money and I shall feel confident about taking the boat further afield.

Road Trailer Wheel Bearings – ‘Sandpiper’

I’ve owned a few small trailer sailers, and with each one of them I’ve spent far more time preparing and checking them than their trailers, but without roadworthy trailers they would have remained at home.

When I bought ‘Sandpiper’ I was told by her owner that her trailer was almost brand new. Certainly it looked in pretty good shape. Since then the trailer has only done 90 miles; therefore the wheel bearings should be in excellent condition.  When I launched 'Sandpiper' at Burnham Yacht Harbour, almost a month ago, I could not persuade her to come off the trailer until the wheel bearings were submerged. I was a bit reluctant to let this happen, but I recalled that I had the same problem with all except one of them.

Because the wheel bearings were submerged, albeit for a brief period, I thought it would be prudent to examine them. I should have immediately done so after launching ‘Sandpiper’, but that was not feasible, because I had to moor the boat and cook a meal before turning in for the night.

I forgot all about the bearings until a few days ago. I managed to remove the hubcap from the offside wheel before heavy rain prevented me from doing likewise to the nearside wheel.  Later, when I tried removing the nearside hubcap it refused to part from the housing; furthermore, rain stopped play again. Maybe I’ll have another shot tomorrow.

The forecast is for sunny weather over the next few days. Most likely I shall take ‘Sandpiper’ to the River Crouch. I've not decided where I shall launch her: Hullbridge, North Fambridge or Burnham. The proviso is that I must first remove the nearside hubcap to see if the bearings are OK, or I’ll not be going anywhere.

Links

Removing a Hubcap (Dust Cap)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdfHQGudUUw

Testing ‘Sandpiper’ (First launching)

http://bills-log.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/testing-sandpiper-part-1-tuesday-26-th.html

Proper Keyboard for iPhone? Part 4

No more than a forgotten dream

I believe the painful saga has come to end, but I’m not quite sure. As far as I am concerned, Comet has done the honourable thing by reimbursing my money for the Logitech Tablet Keyboard. The fellow who dealt with me explained that the issue was not between Comet and me; rather it should be between me and Logitech.

The Logitech website states that the keyboard pairs with iPhones; therefore one assumes the pairing is with ‘all’ iPhones. Logitech should have clearly stated that it does not pair with the iPhone 3G. (You can read the exact wording by visiting the link below – look under the heading, ‘Speaks Apple’.)

If the website had included that information, I would not have purchased the keyboard from Comet. Consequently I’ve been struggling to pair my iPhone 3G with the keypad. That struggle included a visit to the Apple shop at Lakeside.

Taking into account time spent trying to link the phone and time and effort travelling to and fro, I am out of pocket, but on the positive side I’ve learnt a lesson that I cannot believe everything I read on a website! On reflection, I feel sure the paucity of information at the Logitech website was not deliberate.

The fellow at ‘EMEA Support Logitech’ sent me his promised email. He said the Logitech Tablet Keyboard was ‘exclusively’ designed for iPad 3^rd generation, iPad 2 and iPad. He went on to say it cannot be used with iPhones. Clearly he is wrong, because the keyboard positively pairs with iPhone 4 – but perhaps not every function key on the keyboard will operate as it does with an iPad.

Right now I’m very happy to stop banging my head against a brick wall for a chance to recover and to delete painful memories as if they never existed. 

Links 

Logitech Tablet Keyboard for iPad

http://www.logitech.com/en-gb/tablet-accessories/keyboards/tablet-keyboard-ipad

Proper Keyboard for iPhone? Part 3

So the saga continues, but the end is nigh. Comet would not reimburse my money, because the assistant who served me demonstrated that my Logitech Tablet Keyboard could be paired to his iPhone 4. I pointed out that blurb on the Logitech website stated that the keyboard was compatible with iPhones. What I didn’t know was that in very small print at the support page for Logitech keyboards there is an almost hidden notice saying that the iPhone 3G is not supported, even if its operating system is 4.2.1 which mine is. That in itself is puzzling, because the iPhone 4 has an identical operating system.

The long and the short of it is that the man at Comet advised me to visit my nearest Apple Store for help. I went along to Lakeside and I was greeted by an Apple Store technician who did a fantastic job researching why my phone would not pair with the keypad. He referred the case to a Logitech specialist who said he would look into the matter, because he (the Logitech man) did not understand why. He promised to send me an email outlining his findings.

That still leaves me with a keyboard that does not pair with my phone.

When I told the Apple chap that Comet did not refund my money, he exploded like an erupting volcano and immediately phoned the Comet Call Centre to ask if I should have been given my money back. They categorically said I should have been reimbursed.

I am now left with a quandary, do I revisit the Comet store and demand a reimbursement, or do I keep the keyboard for when I may possibly own an iPhone 4 or an iPad? I could auction it on Ebay or give it away.

One thing for sure, the pain has come to end. I am resigned to the fact that unless I change my phone or obtain an iPad, the keyboard is as useful to me as a million dollars in cash is to a starving, dehydrated castaway on a desert island!

Proper Keyboard for iPone? Part 2

I mentioned in the ‘Comments’ section of yesterday’s post that, “I’m a sucker for punishment.” Perhaps I should have more rightly said, “I’m a GLUTTON for punishment!”

From the opening remarks you may gather that the quest for a suitable Bluetooth keyboard continues, along with my frustration caused by not succeeding at pairing one with my iPhone 3Gs. This morning I thought Providence was on my side when Maplin willingly refunded cash for the Cerulian keyboard. Overjoyed with getting my money back, I immediately went next door to the Comet store and negotiated a fantastic deal for a Logitech Tablet keyboard.

Feeling chuffed; I went home and set about pairing the newly acquired keyboard to my iPhone. Yet again I had no joy; instead I was disappointed. There were no instructions in the box as to how the pairing should be done - only a web address printed on the inside of the box. This yielded zilch, whereupon I was left to search for instructions how to do it.

I can only conclude that there must be something wrong with my iPhone’s Bluetooth gizmo, and I am almost resigned to accepting that I shall not be able to pair it wirelessly with any keyboard, but there is a faint glimmer of hope, because the guy at Comet said that if I could not do it he would try. However, despite my usual optimism, pessimism weighs heavily in the balance.

Shall I suffer more self-inflicted torment? I hope so, to satisfy my lust for masochism, and for the good cause of my Blog.

Proper Keyboard for iPhone?

I’m always on the lookout for a good deal – something cheap;  as good as or better than the pukka job. That seldom works and I never learn from my mistakes.

I did a bit of research on the Internet looking for cheap mini Bluetooth enabled keyboards suitable for the iPhone 3Gs and came up with two: a Logitech Tablet keyboard and a Cerulian keyboard. The latter was about the same price as the former, and it was immediately available at my local Maplin store. Being more compact than the Logitech and about the same size as the keyboard of my tiny EEE PC, I decided to go for it.

I moved like a double flash of lightning!!

Back at home my frustrations began. Getting the Bluetooth devices connected was a total failure. I followed the simple instructions, but no matter how many times I tried linking the phone and the keyboard, I was unsuccessful. I turned off all Wi-Fis hoping that would help, and I know for a fact that the iPhone’s Bluetooth was working, because it picked up a signal from my digital house phone. Loads of advice on related Internet forums could not provide a solution.

After all my efforts, I’m resigned to returning the Cerulian keyboard; hopefully get my money back and buy a Logitech keyboard. My nearest PC World with one in stock is at Thurrock, a fair way to go ……………. more petrol, more hassle, and perhaps no success.

Is all this worth doing to make blogging from my boat easier? I’m beginning to have my doubts.

I should bear in mind that ‘small is beautiful’, and the principle of KISS. 

Links

KISS Principle

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KISS_principle

Small is Beautiful

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_Is_Beautiful

Testing the Technology

This afternoon I thought I would further test the technology by uploading to my Blog through 3G in the open at Hullbridge. Right now I am sitting on a bench overlooking the River Crouch. Directly before me the water is ebbing. A Leisure 23 has settled on the mud. Other yachts remain afloat. There is 80 percent cloud cover. Now and again the sun breaks through, bringing light to the scene.

Further along the River, by Hullbridge Yacht Club I came across 'Finda', a miniature Hastings beach boat. (See photos)

Experimenting with my iPhone

Today I am further investigating how my iPhone can be used as a means of doing my Blog at Blogger. I am hoping I can copy items from the 'Notes' facility and paste them to Blogger.

I have discovered that Logitech markets a Bluetooth keyboard compatible with an iPhone 3Gs. The keyboard will make it easier for doing longer and more detailed articles than when using the iPhone's virtual keyboard.

By the looks of it, the experiment of copying and pasting from the 'Notes' facility has been successful.

Jerrycans for ‘Sandpiper’

What are the options for storing petrol aboard my West Wight Potter? The same question could be asked of the owner of any small boat powered by an outboard motor. If the vessel is a dinghy for transporting a crew from shore to yacht, and vice versa, perhaps the outboard’s integral tank will suffice. In which case, no petrol need be stowed on the yacht. When on a cruise, however, the prudent skipper will ensure he has an adequate supply of petrol onboard for the dinghy’s outboard; he will make sure it is properly and securely stowed.

Bought at the Esso station

Single part nozzle

It is not good to put a jerrycan containing petrol in direct sunshine; in fact, there will be a warning on any good quality jerrycan specifically made for storing petrol, not to do so. Ideally it should be stowed in a well-ventilated, cool compartment.

Transferring petrol from a jerrycan to an outboard’s tank can be a bit tricky. Care must be taken not to spill the volatile liquid, particularly into the water, because the release of toxins from it will affect creatures that depend upon pollution-free water for their lives. A spillage of petroleum in the bilge of a boat could be hazardous for her crew, as a build-up of fumes could accidentally be ignited - one spark, and within seconds, the vessel could be a fireball.

Bought at Halfords

Two part nozzle

Now and again one hears of boats that have been engulfed in flames because of a fuel spillage. To minimize the chances of this happening, precautions need to be taken. The most likely time for a spillage is when refuelling the engine. A large funnel can help prevent an accidental spillage when refuelling. I always tie my funnel to the boat to prevent it from going over the side. Before topping up the tank I double-check to make sure that the spout has been securely screwed into place.

Some jerrycans are better designed than others, and because of this they are less of a problem when it comes to attaching the spout. I bought a cheap can at my local Esso filling station and I subsequently discovered that unless I take great care to ensure that the spout is well and truly screwed into place, it will leak.

Because the capacity of the fuel tank of my Honda 2 HP outboard is one litre, on average I have to replenish the fuel every 50 to 55 minutes. One full 5 litre can will hold enough petrol to power the boat for a maximum of 4 ½ hours; thus at 3 knots the potential distance travelled over the ground could be 13.5 nautical miles - depending on the direction and strength of the wind, similarly with the water. Two jerrycans will take me 27 miles, more than enough for a crossing of the English Channel at the narrowest part – not that I intend doing so. The less I turn on the motor, the better it will be, not only for my pocket and the environment, but for my peace, and peace of mind.

To answer my opening question, I only have one place for stowing petrol – that’s if I wish to avoid direct sunshine, although there has not been much of it lately, I shall have to keep it in the stern locker.

Paddle for ‘Sandpiper’

When I launched ‘Sandpiper’ at Burnham Yacht Harbour I resorted to moving her away from the slipway with an improvised paddle. I made it from a broomstick and a piece of plywood left over from building my Paradox.

I have ditched the homemade one and replaced it with a Lahna paddle, which I shall stow on the port side deck where it will not snag the jib sheet. There it will be secured with a small cord passing through a fairlead into a jam cleat so as to be ready for instant use. The disadvantage of keeping the paddle there is that it will make walking along the deck rather tricky.

Link

Lahna Paddles

http://www.lahnakoski.fi/english/index.html

Radar Reflector for ‘Sandpiper’

‘Sandpiper’ at 14’ LOA is only a tiny boat. The likelihood of her being visible on a radar screen is minimal; nor will she be easily seen from the bridge of a ship by the duty watch officer. Her hull is blue and the top of her mainsail is blue; her cabin top is white. Therefore, she should be well camouflaged, which would be an advantage if she were on a ‘stealth’ mission, but a distinct disadvantage if she’s anywhere near a shipping lane. To make her more visible on radar I shall hoist a small tubular reflector that I occasionally used on ‘Ladybird’.

There are several types of radar reflectors, but I believe there are none more suitable for a small boat than the one I have. It has minmal windage, is light, and according to the manufacturer (Plastimo) it is effective. The dimensions are 58 centimetres by 5 centimetres, offering 2 square metres of reflective area! Probably the best place for deploying the reflector will be high up, attached to one of the shrouds.

On a couple of my previous yachts I have used the old-fashioned, aluminium octahedral reflector. This type when folded flat, takes up very little space, but when assembled it is too large for a small yacht. Windage for this type is high, and chafe on the sails is another problem.

Ecomax cylindrical reflectors are more efficient, because they have a large reflective area for their size; however, they are heavy - even the smallest weighs 1.4 kilograms, and I certainly do not want a 47.8 centimetre by 19.7 centimetre object near the top of the mast. At £116.94 from my local chandlery, the smallest Ecomax, inclusive of mounting brackets, is way too expensive.

Links

The Radar Reflector Site

http://www.theradarreflectorsite.org/ 

My Old Mistress, ‘Ladybird’

http://bills-log.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/my-old-mistress-ladybird.html

Car Tyre Pressure for Trailer-Boating

How many of us refer to the Owner’s Guide? When I bought my Ford Mondeo I casually read a few pages and I assumed I knew all about the car. I had it serviced regularly once a year, and it has only once let me down - not entirely, but the engine would continue revving when I took my foot off the accelerator! My local Ford garage eventually found a way of curing the problem – one they had never come across before – something to do with the electronics managing the fuel injection system.

I have owned the car for twelve years, during which time I have used it to tow four trailer-sailers. There has never been a moment when I felt the vehicle was not up to the job, even when encountering the hills and valleys of Devon and Cornwall.

Retrieving my Paradox on a steeply inclined, weed-covered slipway at Emsworth Yacht Harbour was the trickiest situation. To avoid putting the car on the weed, I had to attach the trailer to the tow bar with a rope, but there wasn’t enough room at the top of the slipway for the car to move far enough forward to bring the trailer, complete with boat to the top of the incline. This meant that I had to tie a second rope to the trailer and make it fast to a bollard, so that I could release the first rope. Having done that, I reversed the car to a point above the weed line and reattached the first rope before taking up the load. Then I removed the second rope.  Finally I was able to tow the boat onto the level at the top of the slipway.

My Mondeo Owner’s Guide states that the nose weight on the tow ball must be no more than 75 kilograms - that’s 165 lbs, or 11.8 stone.  I have never had anything near that weight on the tow ball. I have found that 40 to 45 lbs is quite enough to keep the nose down – besides, the ball is locked into the socket by a safety latch. If perchance the trailer parts from the tow ball it is secured to the car by a wire strop.

The Owner’s Guide gives no information regarding tyre pressures when towing a caravan or a trailer-sailer. A Mondeo with more than three people in it requires the rear tyres to be inflated to a pressure of 41 lbs per square inch and the front tyres to be at 31 lbs per square inch. Before towing a boat I have always inflated the tyres to the pressure stipulated for a load of more than three persons.

‘Sandpiper’s’ Engine

An inboard engine on such a small boat would be out of the question. The only alternative is an outboard motor powered by petroleum or electricity. Weight is a consideration, because a heavy outboard would adversely affect the trim of the boat. Fuel for the outboard is another heavy item requiring safe and secure stowage. Placing a volatile fuel such as petrol in the main cabin would be foolish. Storing fuel in the aft locker has its risks, but there the dangers are reduced. If fuel is spilt, at least it is contained, but one would have to take care not to ignite the fumes accidentally. Disposal or dispersal of the spilt fuel would not be easy.

An electric outboard has its attractions:  this type of engine is quiet, environmentally friendly and it is lighter than a comparable petroleum outboard. A battery for powering the engine could be stowed low amidships. I know that is the not the best place for efficiency, because a long connection lead results in a loss of power. The most off-putting thing about electric engines is their inability to run for long periods unless they have multiple batteries supplying their energy needs. For raw power, a petroleum outboard invariably outperforms an electric outboard.

I do not like petroleum outboards, but I chose to have one in preference to an electric engine, mainly because they can run for longer periods if several jerrycans of petroleum are safely stowed aboard the boat. She will have a greater range than with an electric motor that depends upon one or two 12 volt batteries.

My four-stroke outboard has the advantage of not requiring oil to be added to the petrol; that in turn makes for a more eco-friendly machine.  Small outboards such as ‘Sandpiper’s’ Honda 2 HP four-stroke engine are economical, because they consume little fuel. These modern outboards are quieter and lighter than their predecessors.

My 1997, Honda BF 2 outboard has a rated power of 1.5 kilowatts, and weighs only 12.5 kilos.

Solar Charger for 'Sandpiper' – Part 3

Here are four photos that illustrate how the solar panel slots into a retaining frame. The wire between the panel and the battery passes through a hole in the hatch which is just large enough for the junction plugs.

I have not decided whether to permanently fix the panel within the frame or to place it there only when sailing. Steve quite rightly comments that I can charge the battery from the mains when the boat is at home.

Solar Charger for ‘Sandpiper’ – Part 2

A close examination of the wire between the solar panel and the crocodile clips revealed that it was damaged. Yesterday I didn’t notice two places where the protective coating had been breached. The copper wire had become so hot that the filaments fused together. Consequently, the wire was weakened, and I would not like to trust it for long-term use.

Having explained the situation to the Ebay seller, he said he would send me a replacement panel. Meanwhile I have made a mahogany frame for attaching the new panel to ‘Sandpiper’s’ sliding hatch.

When away cruising I shall be more self-sufficient by having an independent means of topping up the battery. I am hoping the 10 watt panel will be adequate for the task. Obviously I must take care not to overuse the Autohelm.

Solar Charger for ‘Sandpiper’

I recently came across what appeared to be an exceptional deal on Ebay for a 10 watt solar panel with a diode to prevent reverse charging. Measuring 310 millimetres by 368 millimetres the panel will fit on top of ‘Sandpiper’s’ sliding hatch. Needless to say, at only £25.95, including delivery, I thought it was a bargain. I parted with my money and the panel arrived this morning.

Instead of testing the device right away, I cut the lawns while the sun shone. After lunch I unpacked the parcel, checked the contents and connected the crocodile clips to ‘Sandpiper’s’ battery. Almost immediately, I knew something was wrong, because the connector lead rapidly heated. Swiftly I disconnected the clips to prevent a serious incident happening. I had correctly attached the clips to the appropriate battery terminals – red to positive, and black to negative.  What was wrong? I had my suspicion that the manufacturer incorrectly wired the junction box.

I contacted the seller and asked his advice. He suggested that I should reconnect the clips, but attach the negative to the positive terminal and visa versa. On doing so I checked the connection lead; thankfully it remained cool. I found there was no discernable difference in the voltage of the battery when the solar panel was connected to the battery. I independently tested the output of the solar panel by using my voltmeter. I felt confident that the charger was doing its work.

Over the next day or so I shall measure the battery’s voltage to ascertain if the solar panel is OK. Currently the voltmeter indicates a satisfactory 12 volts. Four days ago, after I charged the battery by a mains charger, the voltmeter registered 12.5 volts. Somehow the battery has lost half a volt. 

Note

The Ebay seller subsequently sent me an email to say that if things don’t work out, he will send me another solar charger.  

Small Things for ‘Sandpiper’

Frayed Leech

Leech after Sealing

Attention to detail can make the difference between success and failure. A chain will break at the weakest link; therefore it is important to examine every link before relying on the chain. Are all the links robust enough to take the load expected of them?

The time has come for such an examination of ‘Sandpiper’. If I am to take her cruising I must be able to rely on her. What are her weakest points? Starting with the sails, the least satisfactory aspect is their tiredness, due to age, but they should be good enough for perhaps two seasons. The mainsail where it rubs on the shrouds is rather thin, and when the sun shines on that part of the sail tiny holes become visible. When I reshaped the jib I cut the leech with a pair of scissors that left the edge frayed in places. To strengthen the edge I melted the polyester by searing it with a very hot soldering iron, and to prevent the sail from tearing at the seams I bound them with extra sailcloth where they meet the leech.

New Socket

I was never happy with the support socket for the Autohelm. I made it from a piece of brass tubing that did not snugly fit the support rod. Consequently unwanted play lessened the efficiency of the Autohelm. Today, I bought and fitted a genuine replacement socket. Not only will the Autohelm be more efficient, but it will also be more secure.

Cleat for the Topping Lift

The boat did not have a topping lift when I bought her; therefore I added a new one for raising and lowering the boom. To reduce windage I eliminated the downhaul part of the topping lift, and I added a small cleat to a point near the aft end of the boom for attaching the tail of the topping lift.

These small adjustments, along with others I shall make, will in part reduce the chances of things going badly wrong.

Trying to Blog by iPhone

This is my first attempt at posting an entry to my Blog by iPhone. When I was testing 'Sandpiper' On the River Crouch I could not gain access to Blogger because a new, more advanced system recently introduced with extra features was not compatible with my very basic mini EEEPC.

If I can post up-to-date entries from my iPhone I shall be very pleased. When I am cruising the boat they will take the form of notes giving basic facts of where I am, what I am doing, and what I plan to do. My family and friends will be able to follow my progress, and any reader who cares to log on.

No doubt there will be limits as to what I can publish via the iPhone. For a starter the virtual keyboard is so small that I can only type with my index finger, unlike a full size keyboard when I can touch-type using all my fingers and thumbs.

I shall have a go at uploading a photo. Being able to illustrate the Blog with photos via my iPhone will be a great asset.

Minor Adjustments to ‘Sandpiper’

While testing ‘Sandpiper’ on the water, a few shortcomings became evident, not with the boat or her performance, but with her gear. An important item that required attention was her outboard bracket. I could only attach the bracket to the transom at a particular spot. It is held there by four bolts: the upper two pass through the transom above the deck and the lower two below the deck.  When the bracket is fully down with the outboard attached, the propeller is too low in the water; therefore I have devised a simple wire strop system for supporting the bracket at the correct height.