Friday, 9th July

'Kanaloa'
'Ladybird' at Torquay


This was a very good day for maintenance on ‘Ladybird’. The morning here at Torquay was very quiet which meant I could do things like repairing the batten pocket of the mainsail, mending the chemical toilet ratchet, strengthening the lower washboard and general things such as charging the ship’s battery, bailing out rainwater that found its way into the stern locker, drying out my wet weather gear. After those things had been done I shopped for a few snack items for when I’m underway.


While I was working on the boat, the owner of a large motor yacht invited me aboard his vessel for a coffee. The name of his yacht is ‘Kanaloa’. She’s extremely smart, and her owner takes pride in her appearance. Prior to introducing himself he had been polishing the stainless steel pulpit and guardrails. The interior of his floating palace was having a ‘deep clean’, not that it needed to be done, because she was immaculate. The coffee was equally superb, made with a machine which the owner said had been more difficult to master than the yacht!


We talked about handling such a large vessel in windy conditions and the manoeuvre of picking up a mooring buoy. Coming alongside a pontoon is not easy when the wind is blowing hard. The draught of the vessel is 4 feet; she’s over 40 feet long and she has a lot of top-hamper. Sometimes the bowthruster has to be used. Her cruising speed is 28 knots, but the ‘driver’ has to be on the lookout for ‘holes’ in the water. She runs off diesel and her twin engines have tanks which when filled to capacity, require the expenditure of £700 by her owner. One person can manage her, except when coming alongside a pontoon when the wind is blowing strongly.


As usual, when I’m in port, I shall go for a walk this evening.

Thursday, 8th July

Bolt Head early this morning
Start Point
Berry Head
Tanker in Torbay


When you are cruising a boat you tend to lose track of time; one day follows another, and there is nothing to differentiate them. Saturday, Sunday or a Friday are like any other days. If I were not keeping a Blog I would lose count of the days. I’m surprised it’s the 8th of the month already, and that means I have another 23 days to get home. With the prevailing wind from the SW, that should be ample time, but who knows? We’ll see. Maybe I could find time for some East Coast sailing?


This morning I had every intention of trying for Dartmouth. The tide was wrong from the start, but in the end, I went further than I expected, i.e., Torquay! I like the Marina there because it has all the facilities for getting the boat in order - water, waste disposal and electricity.


The passage was uneventful, except I needed the engine for rounding Prawle Point and Start Point - both of them close inshore. As ‘Ladybird’ neared Dartmouth the wind picked up from the SW which caused me to change my mind about going there. Torquay seemed a better prospect, with less hassle and opportunities for getting the boat in order. I have a few repairs to do: strengthen the lower drop board and repair a sail batten pocket. These items can best be attended to when the boat is in calm water at the Marina.


I’m uncertain about what to do tomorrow, as the tide is wrong for Exmouth, unless I delay the start. I usually like to leave early in the morning to give me time to arrive at the next place before dark.

Wednesday, 7th July

The Beach Today
Drizzle
Kingsbridge Ferry
Town ferry
Trawler


There’s a big contrast between the weather yesterday and that of today. yesterday was sunny and bright, today is overcast and dull; in fact for much of the time there has been drizzle since early morning. None of this has greatly affected activities on the water; the Merlins are continuing with their championship racing, fishing boats come and go, sail training vessels such as the ‘Clipper Training’ yacht and the Plymouth Sailing School yacht continue their activities. The Kingsbridge Ferry and the Town Ferry are in action with a few hardy souls trying to enjoy themselves - I even saw one chap at the bow of the Kingsbridge ferry with only a shirt to protect his upper body from the drizzle and cold wind. Meanwhile, a small group of people were on the nearby beach playing cricket, while an equally small bunch of girls were swimming!


I’ve been living the life of a hermit, sealed below in the cosy cabin of ‘Ladybird’, but not without a gainful activity of reading, ‘Heavenly Help’, by Octavius Winslow. I can always to do with God’s help under all circumstances, but reading this book is encouraging in the way a Christian can walk with purpose in this present life while preparing for his future life. In between reading I have taken note of happenings on the water, of which I have to be aware; for example is the yacht dragging her anchor? At times I would think she was because of the rasping sound of the chain when the wind and tide push and pummel ‘Ladybird’ in their competition of being the dominant force. The wind usually wins, except during lulls.


The weather markedly affects what happens during a yacht cruise; for example, I had high hopes of continuing to Dartmouth, but God had a different schedule. I note that Simon Renton who is attempting to sail around Britain in his Wayfarer dinghy has wisely remained here at Salcombe. A Force 6 headwind is not conducive to a successful outcome. Maybe tomorrow will be better for both of us?

Tuesday, 6th July

Bolt Head as seen from the Coastal Path

Sheep grazing by the Coastal Path

Nearby beach

Simon getting ready to leave Salcombe

Simon Renton

Simon's Wayfarer


Today I stayed in port at Salcombe to do the laundry, buy food and go for a walk. What better place could I stop at? Just see the photo of the nearby beach and look at the photos I took during my afternoon walk along the coastal path. Apart from the horseflies, the wildlife was wonderful. There were skylarks, pheasants, wrens and even buzzards. I saw different species of butterflies and so many types of trees, bushes and ferns. The views over the River were picturesque and they could inspire an artist to capture their charm on canvas or paper.


While putting the shopping and laundry in the dinghy at the Salcombe Public Pontoon I chatted with Simon Renton who is sailing around Britain in a Wayferer dinghy. He started his clockwise circumnavigation at London on 3rd June. He hopes to reach Plymouth by this evening. I think he will have a hard beat across Bigbury Bay. Simon’s website is www.simonrenton.co.uk .


I’m intending to have another walk this evening, but on the Salcombe side of the River.

Monday, 5th July

Barn Pool - the smallest yacht is 'Ladybird'

Plymouth Lifeboat

Bolt Head at the entrance of Salcombe

Merlins


Of all the anchored yachts at Barn Pool, ‘Ladybird’ was the first to make a start. Using the engine and the sails we powered through the Bridge, that’s the passage way through the old submarine barrier to the SW of Drake’s Island. A Royal Naval Frigate beat me to the entrance at the western end of the breakwater. I tried to make to the entrance before a second frigate arrived, but I had to turn around and retrace my track. The Police launch crew were on the mark and sped in our direction to warn us off.


When we were clear of the Breakwater I shaped a course for Bolt Head. The wind was coming from behind and it gave us a good 4 knots. The flood tide was in our favour from our time of arrival to the south of the Great Mewstone. Other yachts, all using their engines overhauled ‘Ladybird’. As yesterday, these bigger and faster yachts had the wind and the tidal current with them. I find this puzzling. I can only assume they need to keep up an average speed; hence the use of their engines.


The colours of the scenery were fabulous. The sea was sparkling silver blue and the rugged cliffs were brown and ochre; above them the fields and rolling hills were hues of greens. We slipped along at fine speed. I had taken up the anchor at Barn Pool at 0730 and the boat was anchored at Salcombe at 1400. We had covered 20 nautical miles in 6.5 hours at a speed of just over 3knots. On the way I watched the Plymouth lifeboat and a rescue helicopter practice taking a man aboard from the lifeboat. While this was happening the frigates were engaged in exercise further out to sea. For the first time during the cruise I saw a porpoise. Seeing a lone porpoise is very rare, because they are gregarious creatures.


Altogether I had to anchor ‘Ladybird’ three times at my favourite Salcombe location by the sandy beach where the ferry from Town lands passengers on a wooden slipway. The first time I couldn’t anchor exactly on the best spot because a motor launch was there, but when she moved I tried to anchor where she had been. This was not in deep enough water, so that when the wind changed direction and came from the north, ‘Ladybird’s’ rudder only had 6 inches of clearance when there was more than two hours of falling tide. The third time I anchored further off the beach, and as I type, I think the boat will keep clear.


There has been some sort of Merlin dinghy racing event taking place at Salcombe, and most of boats had to pass by where ‘Ladybird’ was anchored, so I managed to get some good photos. It was a bit hairy, because two or three of the dinghies came rather too close to my yacht.


I’m hoping to have a shower at the Salcombe Yacht Club this evening, as I did when I was here on 25th june.

Sunday, 4th July

Rame Head

'Hardiesse' anchored nearby

Barn Pool Beach


There was a heavy dew on the decks this morning and the sky was clear, but by the time ‘Ladybird’ was making out to sea under engine clouds were forming rapidly and the barometer as falling. The sea was pretty bumpy with white crested waves and progress was slow until we were clear of the land, when I was able to set heavily reefed sails. This was the roughest weather of the trip, but the boat was going well beam reaching to the west. To leeward the scenery was splendid; rolling hills marked with hedge lines and wild bush, along with clumps of trees in places. After Udder Rock Polperro soon came into view. There was a massive platform with a crane right in the entrance to the harbour. Two yachts were coming up from behind.


Gradually the sky darkened and the wind freshened, but the drizzle I expected held off. I saw a storm petrel, the first for a very long time. It looked like a very large swallow and it gracefully glided over the waves as if touching them with its feet. Just then a gannet hurtled towards the boat and nearly collided with the forestay. One or two seas were large enough to have me alter course and run before them. Off Rame Head the seas increased in height and one came over the stern, but not a lot of water entered the cockpit.


I found a protected anchorage at Barn Pool, Plymouth.

Saturday, 3rd July

Leaving Falmouth

Dodman Point

Local Racing Yacht


Today has been another lovely day. Yes, there were a couple of showers, but they just helped keep the temperature down.


I set off from the anchorage at Falmouth Town Quay at 0830. I wanted to wave goodbye to the live-aboard Steve on ‘Lenore‘, but he must have been below otherwise occupied, perhaps having breakfast. At the outset there was a good westerly wind that took us beyond St.Anthony Head, but there the wind petered out. An hour later off a shallow patch, know as The Bizzies, weed became entangled in the propeller. Clearing it was not at all difficult, and after crossing Gerran’s Bay, not too far from Gull Rock the wind sprang up from behind.


We reached Dodman Point quicker than expected, which meant we had more flood tide in our favour than anticipated. I was surprised to find that I was in in company with three other yachts heading the same way, but none of them were sailing when both the wind and tide were from behind. I can only assume their timetable was different to mine and perhaps they were pushing on to Plymouth, whereas my objective was Fowey. The scenery was rather grand with sweeping expanses of bays beyond the tiny islet of Gwineas Rock - Mevagissey Bay and St. Austell Bay, where at the eastern end, Gribben Head is distinctively marked with a tall red and white day mark.


While crossing the two bays, ‘Ladybird’ was overtaken by several much larger yachts, all under power. Near the entrance of Fowey the local sailboats were racing, fifteen in all, and when they were on the run home they made a fine picture with their spinnakers flying. I wished I could have taken a photo of them at that moment, but I was taking down the mainsail.


I picked up a visitor’s buoy on the Polruan side of the River Fowey at Brawn Point, and as I did so the Harbour Master hailed me from his launch requesting that I vacate the mooring for one closer to the jetty. This I did and felt pleased that the manoeuvre went well. Obviously the first mooring had been reserved for larger boats.


After evening dinner I took the dinghy to Albert Quay, so that I could walk to St Catherine’s Point on the Fowey side of the River. I took photos on the way. All in all, it had been a very satisfactory day, with ’Ladybird’ having done 22 miles of her homeward cruise.

Friday, 2nd July

'Jolie Brise'
'Jolie Bris' agin
Look at this for rigging!
Harbour Master's workhorse


This morning has been very enjoyable. With no specific aims I let the day evolve. After breakfast I hung out the wet items to dry, then chatted to whoever was passing by, but one vessel was rather special, the ‘Jolie Brise’, which now belongs to a trust with links to a school in Wiltshire. She came alongside the fuel pontoon early in the morning and was the last to be refuelled before the barge was towed away to be refilled. The Harbour Master’s workhorse did this very efficiently at the top of the tide when all was quiet and there was virtually a calm. After her return at the Visitors’ Pontoon, vessel after vessel came alongside for refuelling.


There may be a classic yacht rally being held at Falmouth because there are many old sailing boats at anchor here. My ‘Ladybird’ is a classic, since she was built in the early seventies. I must say the yachting folk here are very friendly; each acknowledging the other, irrespective of the type or size of yacht they sail. We are all subject to the same on-the-water rules and all of us come under the providence of God in the way He controls the sea and the wind. Seamen have a saying that the sea is a great leveller, and there is truth in it. There’s no room for boasting or pride, only a humble acceptance that we move on the water by the grace of God.


This evening I’m looking forward to a meal with friends; the lady of the house is a first-class cook and loves entertaining, so I know I shall have a great time with them.

Thursday, 1st July

Bob Burns


Roamer's bow


Roamer's stern


Pilot Boat


Another view


Until now I have been very fortunate with the excellent weather, but today, here in Falmouth the rain has been coming down from mid morning; it is now early evening and there seems to be no letup. I phoned my wife who is at home near Southend-on-Sea and she says it has been almost unbearably hot with sunshine!


The tactic has been to stay in the boat to keep as dry as possible; however, I think the Camping Gaz may be running out for the ship’s cooker; therefore I walked to the nearest garage which happens to be an Esso one, at least a mile or so away at the top of a hill. As it happens, they do not do Butane or any other type of bottled gas. A walk back to the chandler confirmed a 907 canister is in stock, so if mine runs out by Friday, I’ll be able to buy a replacement there. I am hoping to start the return home on Saturday if the weather is suitable.


I noticed that Bob Burn’s ‘Roamer’ is moored at the visitors’ pontoon. She has been made of steel, some of which is rusting. After sailing her around the world , including going around Cape Horn, Bob wrote a book which he recently promoted at Falmouth. His very sturdy yacht is rigged as a junk ketch.


In addition to Bob’s vessel, I was interested in the two Pilot boats that are based at a nearby pontoon. One of them is similar to the boats at Ramsgate.


I am finding that I cannot charge my laptop from the ship’s battery, possibly because it is not fully charged; therefore I am having to get the computer charged up ashore. The supervisor of the visitors’ pontoon was kind enough to charge it for me; hence you are able to receive this posting.

Wednesday, 30th June

Coat of Arms
Remembrance Plaque
Swans

The anchorage here at Falmouth is sheltered and it has every convenience a yachtsman may need, including a well-stocked chandlers. Close to hand there ar toilets and showers. Shops selling most things are a stone’s throw away. I wanted a tin opener, which I found straight away at Trego Mills.


Quite a bit of the morning was spent cleaning the yacht, inside and out. Once again I used the long-handle brush to scrub the boat’s bottom. There is never a need to beach ’Ladybird’ for cleaning her bottom. Obviously, I can not get at the part between the keels, but all other areas of underwater surface can be reached.


Wandering along the narrow road that runs parallel to the waterfront I noticed a superb sculpted and painted coat of arms above the old Custom House. A little further along the road a footpath runs beside the quays and jetties to where three or four super yachts are moored by the Maritime Museum, but two things caught my attention: a war remembrance plaque for those who had served in the forces during the second world war and a pair of swans with their signets.

Tuesday, 29th June

Dodman Point


I woke to the most uninviting morning of the whole cruise. The sky was overcast, as a constant drizzle shrouded the River Fowey, but gradually the sky lightened and there was a chance I would be away for another day’s sailing to the SW. The forecast was for S or SW 3 to 4, increasing 5 at times, plus occasional rain and fog patches. Still, that wasn’t too bad, and a day at sea would be better than tramping around Fowey. So I cast off the mooring at 0805 and made out to sea using the engine. ‘Ladybird’ was a solitary yacht heading for Dodman Point, 10 miles to the SW. St. Austell Bay to the NW was surprisingly beautiful with veils of cloud partially hiding the clay mountains. A trawler was at work close inshore.


As the day wore on, the wind did materialize at first from the NW which was ideal for sailing our course of 220 degrees. Other yachts appeared astern, and as usual, they overhauled 'Ladybird’ and disappeared beyond the horizon to where we were heading. Our arrival at Dodman Point was a little earlier than I expectant, which meant I had the use the engine at more than half throttle to beat the flooding tide. Beyond the race the water smoothed out and a survey ship stopped almost dead ahead. Having retrieved samples from under the water, the vessel proceeded to the NW. By then , a good many yachts were enjoying the sunshine, and three of them had anchored off Portloo beach for lunch. I simply hove to and enjoyed a break before continuing towards St. Anthony Head. I was surprised by the strength off the now ebbing tide at the Bizzies.


By the time we entered the Fal, the wind was a good Force 3. I took down the mainsail and continued under the Genoa until near the anchorage at Falmouth Town Quay. There were a good many yachts closely anchored. I found a spot ahead of them all in shallow water, but with sufficient space for the day tripper boats to come and go. Steve, aboard his aluminium yacht, 'Lenore’ introduced himself and invited me for a tea without milk. We had a jolly good chat and said we would meet again.

Monday, 28th June

Udder Rock Buoy
Junk Yacht
Frigate


I had a good night at Barn Pool and woke up refreshed for yet another day of sailing. Initially I was undecided what to do, but the forecast wind and predicted tide were right for sailing to Fowey. At the start there was no wind and it wasn’t until 1100, after three hours under power, that the wind came in from the south. This was ideal for reaching along the coast due west from Rame Head. The ebb was in our favour, and although it was light, we made good progress. By 1330 the picturesque town of Polperro was to our north, about a mile and a half away. Beyond, in a westerly direction was the Udder Rock buoy. I guess the underwater obstruction to the north resembles inverted udders! I didn’t want to milk them, so I headed the yacht to the south cardinal buoy itself. Meanwhile yachts were coming and going, all of them faster than ‘Ladybird’, but this meant I had opportunities for studying those that came close enough for me to see some of the details. I particularly liked a large junk schooner. She was a schooner, because her aft mast was slightly taller than her forward one.


Off the entrance of the Fowey river the wind piped up and there was a light shower which had me donning my oilskin bottoms, because there were a gathering of dark clouds, but I needn’t have bothered; within ten minutes or so the sky brightened. I took in the mainsail and entered Fowey Harbour under the foresail. As I approached the first lot of moorings I started my faithful Honda 2.3. Slowly passing through the moorings I found one that looked appropriate. Now I’m expecting the Harbour Master to arrive in his launch and extract the appropriate fee for the night. He could well ask me to move to another mooring. The boat is rolling a bit, as the wind is against the ebb. At least, I should be rocked to sleep tonight, as in a cradle.

Sunday, 27th June

Calstock railway bridge - view while having breakfast this morning


Saturday’s Blog could not be posted because there was no reception at Calstock; however, I was able to do it this evening from the anchorage at Barnpool, off Mount Edgcumbe, where I am tonight. I left the mooring at Calstock, just after 1800. For the first part of River I had to use the engine to make over the last of the flood tide. A mile or so down the River a small branch wrapped itself around the tiller and the end of the bough was caught in the propeller, but I was able to free it without much hassle.


For the most part of the day I was with my friend at his house. We were able to watch the England/German football, but left for the boat before the game finished. The ship’s radio confirmed the result I was expecting, which is history - England were rubbish, despite their disallowed goal.


As I work on this at 2300 I’m undecided what I’ll do tomorrow, but I should really buy petrol, so perhaps I’ll spend the day at Plymouth.

Saturday, 26thJune

Great Mewstone off the River YealmBreakwater Lighthouse
Brunel's Bridge over the TamarFrigate

I couldn’t have asked for better weather; today was just glorious. At first there was no wind as I left the anchorage at Salcombe, but out beyond Bolt Head there was enough wind for sailing. The course to the Great Mewstone was 292 degrees across the expansive Bigbury Bay. Being a Saturday, there were many yachts on the water, most of the motoring, because of the light wind. I put the engine on for an hour or so, to keep up the average speed of about 3 knots.


Off the Plymouth breakwater I had to make a detour because of divers, but I could still edge past the western end of the breakwater on the port tack. By the time ‘Ladybird’ bore off towards Drake’s Island on a course for the Bridge, the flood tide was taking us along at a fair old lick. Going through the Bridge, which is a narrow channel to the SW of Drake’s Island, was a bit exciting, because in addition to ‘Ladybird’ two other yachts arrived there at the same time, all running downwind and a motor yacht was coming towards us in the opposite direction. By Cremyll Point the tide was racing towards the Hamoase.


After passing the Torpoint Chain Ferry I headed ‘Ladybird’ into the wind and took down the mainsail. From that point I squared off the Genoa and headed up the River Tamar. I didn’t start the engine until well past Cargreen. This was the safest thing to do because the wind almost petered out and I needed steerage way through the numerous moorings. The upper reaches of the Tamer twists and turns like a snake, and I had to take care to keep in the deeper parts of the River. I gave up using the Autohelm, because it was playing up, most probably because the battery was low on juice.


The River Tamar is truly beautiful with wooded sides and in parts a few small cliffs. Unfortunately, there were a good many very fast speedboats, some with ski equipment and two tripper boats from Plymouth going to Calstock. They don’t reduce speed when passing small vessels and their washes create havoc. Apart from those minor drawbacks, the place was idyllic. The evening as I prepare this Blog, all is peaceful. I can hear a blackbird singing and the screeches of swallows or swifts.

Friday, 25th June

Start Point
Prawle Point


Today has been pretty near perfect. First thing this morning I took the dinghy to the floating pontoon for water and to dispose of rubbish. I also bought butter and apple juice. Things worked out nicely to have the anchor up at 1015 and to be away for the ebb towards Start Point, seven nautical miles, roughly on a course of 220 degrees compass. Three tacks brought us to Start, where the wind petered out. The tide swished ‘Ladybird’ around the rocks at 5 knots. From there on it was an engine job to Salcombe. Prawle Point always looks a bit forbidding, even on a fine day, but there was reassurance because the flag was flying at the Coastguard lookout. I found the nicest place to anchor at Salcombe off a small sandy beach across the river from the public jetty. The Harbour Master charged me £5.40 for the night, and he gave me two tokens for the showers at the Yacht Club. Maybe I looked as though I could do with a good wash?

Thursday, 24th June

Galmpton


Most of today has been devoted to obtaining a filler cap for the Honda 2.3 outboard to replace the one lost at sea. I rowed the dinghy to the Upper Ferry slipway where I left the dinghy tied to a stake at the high-water mark. If I wanted to lose weight I could not have found a better way than climbing the steep gradient of the A 379 to the hamlet of Hillhead at 155 metres above sea level. There I made use of a convenient bench seat to have lunch before climbing a little more to Lupton Park; from there it was downhill Galmpton.


Tonto Marine had the cap waiting for the princely sum of £10.90 - a real bargain. The return to the slipway was just as dangerous as the outward journey, because of the very many cars that were speeding recklessly along the narrow road.


Back at the boat I tucked into a ‘Mr. Kipling, exceedingly good cake‘. Tonight I dined out with very good friends at Dartmouth.