Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 88

Mahogany Blocks

Mahogany Wedges between fittings and transom

Each day I try to do something towards building the boat. This afternoon I made four more mahogany blocks through which the rope handles will pass. I also made four small wedges of mahogany that I epoxied between the rudder fittings and the transom. They provide support for the gudgeon and pintle. I’m pleased with the result. In fact, I believe the rudder fittings will be stronger than the stainless steel, purpose-made ones shown in the plans.

Steering Line Pulley


Apart from fitting a line and a bungee to the rudder, I have now finished it.


Before I attach the decks I need to install a seat and paint the interior of the hull.

Rudder Pads

I am debating whether to attach the central fore and aft rubbing strips with screws screwed from inside the hull, or from outside. A disadvantage of the latter is that filler covering the countersunk screw heads may come out when the boat is repeatedly beached, and if this were to happen leaks could occur. A disadvantage of screwing from inside is in drawing the rubbing strips close to the exterior of the hull. Screwing them from the outside would be easier, because pressure can be brought to bear on the strips when the screws are tightened.


If I choose to attach the rubbing strips by screwing from inside, I shall have to fix them to the hull before fixing the decks.


I shall need to install two inspection hatches before joining the decks to the hull. There will be one giving access to a watertight chamber forward of the cockpit, and another to one after it. There will be no access to the bow and stern chambers. These will be absolutely watertight. Even if they were holed, there would be ample buoyancy to keep the boat afloat, despite the 80 lbs keel weights. I could of course, ditch the keel if the push came to the push, assuming I had time!