Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 86

Attaching the rudder was pretty straightforward. I had to make sure the pintles and gudgeons were lined up, and that they were in the right places on the transom for the bottom of the rudder stock to be above the waterline.


Because I am using a set of standard, small dinghy rudder fittings instead of the stainless steel ones shown on the plans, I have had to be very careful not to interfere with the lifting rudder by screwing screws into the space where the rudder is supported on a spindle. I managed that by shortening the retaining screws in that area. In fact, the screws are hardly necessary, because the fittings are set into grooves cut into the rudder stock, and I have also epoxied them to the wood.


The fittings adjoining the transom will require four small mahogany wedges to further strengthen the bond between them and the transom, as well as provide larger areas of support for the gudgeon and pintle. I had thought it necessary to bolt them to the transom, but now I am quite satisfied that they will be more than adequately retained, each by four screws and epoxy.


I have only to do a few small things to finish the rudder stock. In fact, apart from finalizing the seating arrangement and attaching the central rubbing strips, I’m ready to paint the interior of the hull. I shall need to make and fit to the underside of the decks four small blocks through which the lifting handle ropes will pass; then I shall be ready for epoxying the decks to the hull.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 85

There are days when I make huge strides, and other days when I barely crawl; such has been my feeble effort at building the boat today. The fact is, I spent a fair amount of time doing those things necessary around the garden and visiting an elderly person who is bedridden, which left me with little time for getting chandlery, and even less for actually building the boat, but I could not have done what I did without the chandlery.


One of the photos shows my start at fixing the upper pintle to the rudder stock; the lower fitting will be a gudgeon, and visa versa on the transom. The pintle on the transom will be longer than the one on the rudder stock to make it easy for shipping the rudder. The procedure will be to first slip the rudder stock gudgeon onto the transom pintle, then lower the upper pintle into the gudgeon on the transom.


Before I can do the above I’ll need to add appropriate wooden supports, inside and out for attaching the transom pintle and gudgeon. If I had been able to have the pintles and gudgeons made from stainless steel as per plan, I would not be fiddling about trying to fit ones designed for a flat transom.


The more I work on the boat, the more promising she looks, and I would like to have her finished within a month, hopefully sooner, including fitting the road trailer given to my by Gavin Atkin.


Link


Gavin Atkin’s Web Site – In the Boat Shed

http://intheboatshed.net/

Also Free Boat Design Resources

http://home.clara.net/gmatkin/design.htm

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 84

Doing the infill

Whatever you build, it will require components, and my boat is no exception. She’s really simple by comparison with some. Perhaps the most complicated part is her keel, with its various bits and pieces. To finish making the keel I had to scoot around this afternoon to find two 140 millimetre stainless steel bolts with their nuts and washers, and while I was in the suppliers I bought a brand new metal 10.00 millimetre bit for drilling holes through the removable keel weight to suit the bolts.


The photographs illustrate how I fixed the weights and made a plywood infill between both of them. I’ve deliberately left a small gap between the infill and the aft edge of the keel, because I may need to take the thing apart at some later date. To improve the shape for minimizing drag, I shall fill the gap with flexible putty that can easily be removed if necessary.


Unlike the original keel design I have simplified it by having continuous threaded round-headed bolts that keep the fixed weight attached to the port side. These bolts also support the removable weight on the starboard side, and they are retained by nuts and washers. To minimize wear to the holes in the movable weight I shall attempt to fill the threads of the bolts with epoxy – that’s apart from the very ends to which the nuts are screwed. Then, after the keel weights have been painted, the keel will be finished.

Both Keel Weights

While I was buying the bolts for the keel I also bought a small one for the keel hoist ball bearing bracket.



A little more work will be required around the cockpit area, and I’m still trying to resolve how to make the best seat for the boat.


Next time I visit the chandlers I’ll check out their small pintles and gudgeons to see if I can use them for attaching the rudder - more properly the rudder stock which houses the kick-up rudder.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 83

Under foredeck

After a whole day working on the boat I feel I am getting there. She’s beginning to look like the genuine article. Mostly from now on, it’s a matter of cosmetics.

Coaming blocks

I have yet to make the coamings and the plywood blocks through which the rope handles will pass before exiting the decks.


The seat remains a question mark, but I was given a very good suggestion as to how I could do it. Get hold of a two part pack of closed cell foam; mix and pour the contents into a plastic bag, upon which I should sit for about ten minutes. When the foam has set, remove it from the bag; trim to shape and cover it with a suitable material. I would first need to make a simple plywood seat for supporting the foam as it solidifies. Well, I have yet to research this method before deciding if should adopt it.


Close fit for the coamings

I trimmed the cockpit to the exact finished shape, and attached eight small blocks of mahogany to the edges for fixing the coamings. There’s a close fit at the forward apex where the coamings butt onto the keel hauling bracket. That’s because I need space in front of the coamings for a stainless steel bolt and nut to pass through the bracket to act as a spindle for the ball bearing pulley.

Keyhole attachment

I also finished the keyhole arrangement for attaching the keel hauling line to the starboard foredeck.


The two central rubbing strips under the hull, (one before the keel slot, and another after it) will need attaching. I’m beginning to think I should screw and glue them to the bottom of the boat from the inside, so as to avoid making holes that have to be filled after the screws have been tightened.


Soon it will be a matter of painting the interior, including under the decks, except where they will be attached to the hull with epoxy.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 82

Testing Bracket and Ball Bearing Pulley

The Knot and the Stopper retain the rope

I concentrated on two things today, parts of the keel hoist system. I first cut out the side decks around the ball bearing pulley bracket to make them fit; then I tested the pulley to make sure it was running freely. After that I made a keyhole and stopper for the keel hoist pulleys. This clever feature locks the tail of the rope that will be attached to pulleys for hoisting and lowering the keel.

Stopper and Keyhole

The photographs illustrate how the stopper and keyhole device will work. Instead of a continuous line running between the keyhole and the ball bearing pulley, there will be a purchase block system to minimize the effort require for operating the keel which weighs over 80 lbs.


I suppose my next priority will be fixing a seat; either a proprietary one or a bespoke one. I’ve still not come to any conclusions as to what to do for seating. As the boat will be heeled when on the wind, I really should opt for a system that will support either side of the crew, i.e., me!

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 81

Bracket fixed in place

I made the decision to do my own metal parts; therefore I started on the bracket for the ball bearing pulley that is for hoisting and lowering the keel. Instead of making it as per plan I adapted a bronze Seagull outboard engine clamp. This required ingenuity on my part, but I’m very pleased with the result. The dimensions are similar to the original stainless steel design; however, I believe the bronze fitting will be stronger because the sides that support the spindle are thicker.

Testing the Pulley

Stainless steel and bronze are probably not happy together, but if I make sure there is grease on the pulley I don’t think I’ll have a problem with electrolysis, because the fittings are not below water. They will only be subjected to minimal sea spray and water shed from the cable when the keel is hoisted.

Checking alignment of cable and pulley

I fitted the bracket above the support post so that the ‘v’ of the pulley was directly in line with keel’s Bowden cable. In practice, if there’s a tendency for the cable to jump off the pulley I can easily make a guide to keep it where it should be. As long as it is supporting the keel I don’t think there’s a chance that it will come off the pulley. I’ll have to see how it works.


My next challenge regarding the keel will be devising a quick method of attaching and removing the removable lead weight. My initial thoughts are that I should make two strips of metal about an inch wide by three sixteenths of an inch thick, and drill holes through them to match the holes in the keel weights and the keel itself. One strip will be permanently bolted to the outside of the fixed weight using the same bolts that will retain the weight. The removable weight will slide onto the bolts before the second strip of metal is also slid onto the bolts. To keep the weights in place I can either use washers and nuts, or make holes in the ends of the bolts for retaining pins. The latter is similar to the arrangement shown on the plans, but if I choose this method I shall have to drill holes through the bolts. Incidentally, they would be retained in place by washers and nuts, which means I would have to make recesses in the moveable weight, otherwise the moveable weight would not fit flush with the side of the keel.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 80

Roughly cut cockpit shape - It will need trimming when the decks have been attached to the hull.


I didn’t get a great deal of time for working on the boat today, but I cut out the approximate shape of the cockpit, prepared the under surfaces of the decks that will be epoxied to the hull, and I made two butt plates for the deck joints. Preparation for the under surfaces entailed sanding and scoring the plywood.


When the decks have been fixed to the hull I’ll give the cockpit its final shape and add the coaming, but as I explained yesterday, I’ll have to attach a bracket to the starboard foredeck for the keel hoist and make four plates to be attached underneath the decks where the rope handles will pass through them. These will prevent the decks from being damaged when the handles are pulled sideways, as indeed they will be, when drawing the boat to the side of a pontoon, quay, river bank or jetty.

Deck Butts

The only thing needed to be done inside the hull before I can set about painting it is to make the seat support or build a seat. I’m undecided whether to obtain a plastic office seat and remove the metal frame, as shown on the plans, or to make my own. I seem to remember I’ve discussed this topic before on a recent entry.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 79

Working on the shape


It seemed that the day would never arrive when I would be shaping the decks, but that became a reality today. I had a bit of a battle, but I won in the end. I had planned to get all the deck panels from one sheet of 8’ x 4’ plywood, but I discovered that the final foredeck panel would not quite fit. I could have added a tiny piece, and by the time it was painted or varnished, it would not have been noticed, but there was more than enough plywood for a complete panel from another piece. My problem was making every seam join, and this required endless adjustments with the plane and sanding board.

Ready for cutting the cockpit

At the end of the afternoon I was a little tired; however, I was triumphant with my success.


I shall not be able to trim the edges at the gunwales until the decks have been epoxied to their respective side panels and central support beams. Before I fix the decks to the hull I’ll need to make a special attachment for the keel haul line and four pads under the decks where rope handles will exit the hull.


My next job will be cutting out the shape of the cockpit; then I shall need to add small blocks of wood along the inner edges for supporting the coamings.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 78

Forward and aft starboard lifting plates/brackets

Lifting plates/brackets attached to chine stringer

Quite a bit of progress was made today, despite interruptions. I made four lifting plates/brackets for rope handles. These will pass through holes in the side decks so that they can be tied to the plates/brackets to form loops for lifting the boat. There will be two loops (rope handles) on each side of the boat located fore and aft of the longitudinal point of balance. I think they will be very useful for when the boat is being launched and for drawing her alongside a pontoon. A small horizontal fender could be deployed between them when she’s berthed at a jetty, quay or pontoon.

Aft panels ready for shaping of the cockpit

After making and attaching the lifting plates/brackets I cut out the aft deck panels. I’ll try doing the foredeck panels tomorrow – assuming I can find time. All of the interior, apart from the seat and its supports has now been completed and it is ready for painting.

Total Distraction

Searching for dinosaurs

If you have a hectic life or if you have problems you may be able to arrange an escape for a short while and thus be totally distracted. Such distractions can be a blessing for the hard-pressed person so that he can recuperate, regain strength and return to his situation with renewed enthusiasm and energy.


Sometimes a person may not plan an escape, but it is thrust upon him through circumstances, and he mercifully finds himself on a desert island where unfamiliar surroundings and a need for survival demand new activities that make him totally forget his past traumas.


Helicopter rescue

I can’t say I’m living a traumatic life, nor can I plead that I need an escape from boatbuilding, but I must say I’ve had a very pleasant day of distractions in different surroundings. Instead of being in the shadows of the garage with the smell of sawdust and the pong of epoxy, I found myself in the open air at a Southend Park with my wife and young grandchildren. The youngsters had a glorious day of thrilling adventures – for them many things are yet new. They fantasized while clambering in and out of a metal framed helicopter. Victims of nature’s catastrophes needed rescuing and I was amazed at their efforts to save those who were injured. Pilots guided their machine while watching rotors when landing to make sure they were not entangled in debris.


Other fascinating activities took place in the play park. They loved the swaying trees with their blossoms blown by the wind and the dappled sunlight on the freshly cut lawns. They were intrigued by white uniformed persons rolling black balls on green grass carpets and learnt the word ‘bowls’. A Jenny Wren made its high-pitched song heard above the murmurings of passing traffic. We visited the café, ate crisps and satisfied our thirst; the boys drank from their rocket dispensers and we sipped tasty coffee.


Then it was the library where we were lost in a dream world of monsters, fairies, rabbits, toads, counting and the alphabet, but their favourite was the Wendy House where they played postmen, posting books through the letter box. Then they sold ice cream via the window. I preferred raspberry, but my wife liked vanilla.


After lunch at M & S we visited the beach for stone throwing, skimming, shell searching and for special stones in the shape of animals’ heads; we found a dinosaur, a cat, a dog and a rabbit.

Balloons


Back at home they played with balloons, wrestled, ate their dinner and watched a film on TV.


Having been totally distracted from any routine, my wife and I arrived home knowing it had been a good day. She had more business to attend to; whereas I could relax and reflect while writing this Blog.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 77

Finally, I got around to fixing the mainsheet pipe. The photos illustrate how it was done. I wanted the exit end of the pipe where it will be near the centre of the aft deck to be upright, as shown per the plans. Therefore I contrived a block to retain it in that position and to which I shall attach a deck hook for the end of the mainsheet. This will go through one block attached to the boom, back through the pipe to another block fixed to the rudder bar support, and from there to the right hand of the solo crew.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 76

Steering lines pipes fitted

Steering lines pipes exits

I hardly spent any time on the boat today – just a short back and sides. I simply trimmed the ends of the steering line pipes, both inside and outside the hull and I finished by hoovering up the trimmings.


Maybe tomorrow I’ll get around to installing the mainsheet tube and making and fixing brackets for four lifting handles. After that, little will be required other than scoring the surfaces that will come into contact with the deck panels. Finally it will be a case of painting the interior before adding the decks. They will require a few internal fittings, such as the attachment for the keel wire purchase and backing pieces for the butt joints, and the mainsheet exit port.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 75

Arrangement of steering line pipes


I was very pleased today because I carried out the first stage of installing the
steering line pipes.


I also levelled the top edges of frame number four to make the hull ready for when I shall attach the aft decks. Doing those jobs plus filleting the bottoms of number three and number four frame took most of the day. I’m an incredibly slow woodworker, mainly due to checking measurements over and over again. I’d rather have the correct shapes before cutting them.

Close-up of how the pipes are attached to the transom

Getting the pipes in the exact positions matters, because if they are not, then undue friction caused by the steering lines rubbing against the openings and closings of the pipes will cause the lines to wear and make the feel of the rudder less sensitive. Being able to ‘feel’ weather helm is helpful when it comes to efficiently sailing a boat. Weather helm causes drag and slows a boat down. If she can be made to balance as a windsurfer balances his board without a rudder, she will sail to her maximum potential.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 74

Ready for the epoxy


I am not an ardent royalist, but I couldn’t fail to notice there was a royal wedding* today, William and Kate at Westminster Abbey. They have now been given the title of Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. I wish them happiness, long life and children. I feel sure they will take their responsibilities seriously and do all they can to serve the citizens of their Queen’s realm.


However, having visitors with us for the day and enough curiosity to view the TV, especially the marriage service, these distractions from boatbuilding were sufficient to limit what I could do, which was to add a few small pieces of wood to the tops of frames that did not line up for supporting the deck. I deliberately mixed more epoxy than I would require, so that I could fillet compartments within the hull to make them airtight – that’s once the decks have been bonded to the side panels and frames.

Filleting base of transom

Keeping the forward and aft compartment sealed will provide adequate buoyancy in the event of capsize. I shall also make sure that the adjacent compartments will also be airtight, but I may add inspection hatches for access to them. Such hatches would allow me to stow small items such as a change of clothing, food, drink and emergency equipment, i.e., VHF set and flares.



*Royal Wedding

http://news.sky.com/skynews/Home/Royal-Wedding/Royal-Wedding-Crowds-Cheer-Kate-And-William-Back-To-Buckingham-Palace/Article/201002415981320?lpos=Royal_Wedding_Top_Stories_Header_2&lid=ARTICLE_15981320_Royal_Wedding%3A_Crowds_Cheer_Kate_And_William_Back_To_Buckingham_Palace_

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 73

Aft knee butting onto the spacer frame

Forward knee under the foredeck support beam, plus the side deck support knees

If I can keep doing a little each day towards building the boat she will eventually be completed. I visualize her out on the water, gliding along in a Force 2. Little waves run away from the wind; it’s sunny and there are cotton wool clouds skipping across the sky. ‘Sharpy’ slightly heels and she leaves behind her an almost imperceptible wake.


May the dream spur me on so that it will become a reality!


Today I smoothed away the odd dribble of epoxy from yesterday’s efforts at fixing knees either end of the keel box - one adjoining the forward keel box support and the foredeck support beam; the other braced against the middle frame that butts against the aft end of the keel box.


After the cleanup I made two side deck support knees, each one with an inch diameter hole drilled through it for the appropriate steering line. I also drilled holes for the same purpose in the frame that butts to the aft end of the keel box. I checked that the steering lines will pass through the holes without coming into contact with the knees and frame. This also enabled me to pinpoint the locations on frame three where 15 millimetre holes will be drilled to accept plastic tubes for the steering lines. (Note that frame three is the one at the aft end of the cockpit. The frame before it that butts onto the keel box is not shown as number three on the plans. It is a spacer frame made to fit the hull section after the first four frames have been fixed between the side panels.)


Apart from fixing the steering line tubes and the tube for the sheet, I only have to make four ‘plates’ that will be screwed to the chines for the lifting handle ropes, and the interior will nearly be ready for painting. I do have to make up my mind with regard to the seat. The designer of the boat has modified an office chair and mounted it on supports in his boat. He shows this arrangement in the plans. I am contemplating designing and making a seat, but whatever the arrangement, I want to be comfortable because I may have to spend many hours at a time in the boat. On my ‘Paradox’ I found a waterproof cushion from a wheelchair was comfortable to sit on. I could resort to getting hold of one for my new boat. If the sides of the coaming were to be padded, the seating arrangement with the cushion could be quite comfortable.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 72

Turned out OK

Shaping deck beams and upper sides of the hull

There she is, almost ready for her decks

Astonishing! It all works

I was able to accomplish a lot today. The major job achieved was fairing the upper sides of the hull and the deck support beams in preparation for attaching the decks. In addition to that I made two support pieces for the bottom of the keel box - one for each side of the keelson; two knees for bonding to the keel box to prevent lateral movement, and I removed a piece of the forward deck beam so that the mast could be slotted into the mast support bracket.

Building Sharpy Part 71

Testing size of hole

Gradually I’m building the interior fittings of the hull. The most recent piece is the mast support bracket. This is sited almost four inches astern of number one frame and it sits upon the keelson and the adjoining floor panel. The upper fore and aft pieces slot onto the foredeck support beam. When the deck is in place and an exterior collar is attached to it, the structure will be strong enough for supporting the mast and rig without stays.


My aim today was to get the inner pieces epoxied in place, and I was able to find enough time to do the job towards the end of the afternoon, but the temperature was not high enough for epoxying; therefore I switched on my mini hot air blow heater and covered the finished work with an old tarpaulin.

Upper section finished

There aren’t many things left for me to complete within the hull before I set about painting a primer in preparation for an undercoat and topcoat. I actually need to make brackets for four lifting handles; two knees either end of the keel box, one that strengthens the deck where it joins the front of the coaming and the other at the aft end of the keel box for additional support; I must fix plastic tubes for the steering lines and mainsheet, and supports for the seat. That’s it!

Tarpaulin to keep the heat in


When the painting has been done, I’ll set about making deck panels and fixing them. There is a snag. I do not have the metal parts! I really need the rudder fixtures so that they can be bolted through the transom, rather than simply being held to the boat by screws.


Incidentally, I still have no news of when the sail will be finished.

Building ‘Sharpy’ Part 70

Washers on Foot Steering Bar

Before doing anything else I inserted stainless steel washers either side of the foot steering bar. These will ensure there is no undue wear from the inverted bolt around which the steering bar articulates. If I can’t find a locking nut, I’ll seal the one I have with epoxy to stop it undoing.

Shaping Mast Step


Mast Support Bracket

Clamped

I then turned my attention to building the mast support bracket. The plywood forward and aft pieces are 4.25 inches wide at the bottom, and where they slot onto the deck beam they are 3.00 inches wide. I shaped blocks from wood and plywood at the base of the bracket to form a square socket. To ensure a snug fit, I took measurements from the base of the mast. Finally, I epoxied the whole lot together and clamped the lower section to form a tight bond.