Wednesday, 30th June

Coat of Arms
Remembrance Plaque
Swans

The anchorage here at Falmouth is sheltered and it has every convenience a yachtsman may need, including a well-stocked chandlers. Close to hand there ar toilets and showers. Shops selling most things are a stone’s throw away. I wanted a tin opener, which I found straight away at Trego Mills.


Quite a bit of the morning was spent cleaning the yacht, inside and out. Once again I used the long-handle brush to scrub the boat’s bottom. There is never a need to beach ’Ladybird’ for cleaning her bottom. Obviously, I can not get at the part between the keels, but all other areas of underwater surface can be reached.


Wandering along the narrow road that runs parallel to the waterfront I noticed a superb sculpted and painted coat of arms above the old Custom House. A little further along the road a footpath runs beside the quays and jetties to where three or four super yachts are moored by the Maritime Museum, but two things caught my attention: a war remembrance plaque for those who had served in the forces during the second world war and a pair of swans with their signets.

Tuesday, 29th June

Dodman Point


I woke to the most uninviting morning of the whole cruise. The sky was overcast, as a constant drizzle shrouded the River Fowey, but gradually the sky lightened and there was a chance I would be away for another day’s sailing to the SW. The forecast was for S or SW 3 to 4, increasing 5 at times, plus occasional rain and fog patches. Still, that wasn’t too bad, and a day at sea would be better than tramping around Fowey. So I cast off the mooring at 0805 and made out to sea using the engine. ‘Ladybird’ was a solitary yacht heading for Dodman Point, 10 miles to the SW. St. Austell Bay to the NW was surprisingly beautiful with veils of cloud partially hiding the clay mountains. A trawler was at work close inshore.


As the day wore on, the wind did materialize at first from the NW which was ideal for sailing our course of 220 degrees. Other yachts appeared astern, and as usual, they overhauled 'Ladybird’ and disappeared beyond the horizon to where we were heading. Our arrival at Dodman Point was a little earlier than I expectant, which meant I had the use the engine at more than half throttle to beat the flooding tide. Beyond the race the water smoothed out and a survey ship stopped almost dead ahead. Having retrieved samples from under the water, the vessel proceeded to the NW. By then , a good many yachts were enjoying the sunshine, and three of them had anchored off Portloo beach for lunch. I simply hove to and enjoyed a break before continuing towards St. Anthony Head. I was surprised by the strength off the now ebbing tide at the Bizzies.


By the time we entered the Fal, the wind was a good Force 3. I took down the mainsail and continued under the Genoa until near the anchorage at Falmouth Town Quay. There were a good many yachts closely anchored. I found a spot ahead of them all in shallow water, but with sufficient space for the day tripper boats to come and go. Steve, aboard his aluminium yacht, 'Lenore’ introduced himself and invited me for a tea without milk. We had a jolly good chat and said we would meet again.

Monday, 28th June

Udder Rock Buoy
Junk Yacht
Frigate


I had a good night at Barn Pool and woke up refreshed for yet another day of sailing. Initially I was undecided what to do, but the forecast wind and predicted tide were right for sailing to Fowey. At the start there was no wind and it wasn’t until 1100, after three hours under power, that the wind came in from the south. This was ideal for reaching along the coast due west from Rame Head. The ebb was in our favour, and although it was light, we made good progress. By 1330 the picturesque town of Polperro was to our north, about a mile and a half away. Beyond, in a westerly direction was the Udder Rock buoy. I guess the underwater obstruction to the north resembles inverted udders! I didn’t want to milk them, so I headed the yacht to the south cardinal buoy itself. Meanwhile yachts were coming and going, all of them faster than ‘Ladybird’, but this meant I had opportunities for studying those that came close enough for me to see some of the details. I particularly liked a large junk schooner. She was a schooner, because her aft mast was slightly taller than her forward one.


Off the entrance of the Fowey river the wind piped up and there was a light shower which had me donning my oilskin bottoms, because there were a gathering of dark clouds, but I needn’t have bothered; within ten minutes or so the sky brightened. I took in the mainsail and entered Fowey Harbour under the foresail. As I approached the first lot of moorings I started my faithful Honda 2.3. Slowly passing through the moorings I found one that looked appropriate. Now I’m expecting the Harbour Master to arrive in his launch and extract the appropriate fee for the night. He could well ask me to move to another mooring. The boat is rolling a bit, as the wind is against the ebb. At least, I should be rocked to sleep tonight, as in a cradle.

Sunday, 27th June

Calstock railway bridge - view while having breakfast this morning


Saturday’s Blog could not be posted because there was no reception at Calstock; however, I was able to do it this evening from the anchorage at Barnpool, off Mount Edgcumbe, where I am tonight. I left the mooring at Calstock, just after 1800. For the first part of River I had to use the engine to make over the last of the flood tide. A mile or so down the River a small branch wrapped itself around the tiller and the end of the bough was caught in the propeller, but I was able to free it without much hassle.


For the most part of the day I was with my friend at his house. We were able to watch the England/German football, but left for the boat before the game finished. The ship’s radio confirmed the result I was expecting, which is history - England were rubbish, despite their disallowed goal.


As I work on this at 2300 I’m undecided what I’ll do tomorrow, but I should really buy petrol, so perhaps I’ll spend the day at Plymouth.

Saturday, 26thJune

Great Mewstone off the River YealmBreakwater Lighthouse
Brunel's Bridge over the TamarFrigate

I couldn’t have asked for better weather; today was just glorious. At first there was no wind as I left the anchorage at Salcombe, but out beyond Bolt Head there was enough wind for sailing. The course to the Great Mewstone was 292 degrees across the expansive Bigbury Bay. Being a Saturday, there were many yachts on the water, most of the motoring, because of the light wind. I put the engine on for an hour or so, to keep up the average speed of about 3 knots.


Off the Plymouth breakwater I had to make a detour because of divers, but I could still edge past the western end of the breakwater on the port tack. By the time ‘Ladybird’ bore off towards Drake’s Island on a course for the Bridge, the flood tide was taking us along at a fair old lick. Going through the Bridge, which is a narrow channel to the SW of Drake’s Island, was a bit exciting, because in addition to ‘Ladybird’ two other yachts arrived there at the same time, all running downwind and a motor yacht was coming towards us in the opposite direction. By Cremyll Point the tide was racing towards the Hamoase.


After passing the Torpoint Chain Ferry I headed ‘Ladybird’ into the wind and took down the mainsail. From that point I squared off the Genoa and headed up the River Tamar. I didn’t start the engine until well past Cargreen. This was the safest thing to do because the wind almost petered out and I needed steerage way through the numerous moorings. The upper reaches of the Tamer twists and turns like a snake, and I had to take care to keep in the deeper parts of the River. I gave up using the Autohelm, because it was playing up, most probably because the battery was low on juice.


The River Tamar is truly beautiful with wooded sides and in parts a few small cliffs. Unfortunately, there were a good many very fast speedboats, some with ski equipment and two tripper boats from Plymouth going to Calstock. They don’t reduce speed when passing small vessels and their washes create havoc. Apart from those minor drawbacks, the place was idyllic. The evening as I prepare this Blog, all is peaceful. I can hear a blackbird singing and the screeches of swallows or swifts.

Friday, 25th June

Start Point
Prawle Point


Today has been pretty near perfect. First thing this morning I took the dinghy to the floating pontoon for water and to dispose of rubbish. I also bought butter and apple juice. Things worked out nicely to have the anchor up at 1015 and to be away for the ebb towards Start Point, seven nautical miles, roughly on a course of 220 degrees compass. Three tacks brought us to Start, where the wind petered out. The tide swished ‘Ladybird’ around the rocks at 5 knots. From there on it was an engine job to Salcombe. Prawle Point always looks a bit forbidding, even on a fine day, but there was reassurance because the flag was flying at the Coastguard lookout. I found the nicest place to anchor at Salcombe off a small sandy beach across the river from the public jetty. The Harbour Master charged me £5.40 for the night, and he gave me two tokens for the showers at the Yacht Club. Maybe I looked as though I could do with a good wash?

Thursday, 24th June

Galmpton


Most of today has been devoted to obtaining a filler cap for the Honda 2.3 outboard to replace the one lost at sea. I rowed the dinghy to the Upper Ferry slipway where I left the dinghy tied to a stake at the high-water mark. If I wanted to lose weight I could not have found a better way than climbing the steep gradient of the A 379 to the hamlet of Hillhead at 155 metres above sea level. There I made use of a convenient bench seat to have lunch before climbing a little more to Lupton Park; from there it was downhill Galmpton.


Tonto Marine had the cap waiting for the princely sum of £10.90 - a real bargain. The return to the slipway was just as dangerous as the outward journey, because of the very many cars that were speeding recklessly along the narrow road.


Back at the boat I tucked into a ‘Mr. Kipling, exceedingly good cake‘. Tonight I dined out with very good friends at Dartmouth.

Wednesday, 23rd June

Dartmouth Castle
Dartmouth Day Mark
Tanker, 'Alfa britannia'
Sailing to windward with the tiller lashed


Having dried my shirts in the Marina’s tumble dryer and done the shopping I put to sea. There was a very light wind from the SW. At first it was slow progress to Berry Head while passing an anchored tanker named ‘Alfa Britannia’, registered at Nassau, but gradually the wind increased to a force 4. I was surprised how well ‘Ladybird’ went to windward, easily out-sailing a Newbridge 22’. I had a splendid beat out to sea beyond Berry Head before heading on the port tack towards Scabbacombe Head; then another tack to miss Nimble Rock. When coming up to the E. Blackstone and the Mewstone the sea became pretty bumpy. To cope more easily with the conditions I turned on the engine, but the cap fell off the outboard when I refilled it, which meant improvising with a plastic bag and a piece of string. I was reminded of a similar happening when I cruised ‘Faith’, my Paradox sailboat. Soon, the wind was free enough for us to keep clear of the two south cardinal buoys guarding the Mewstone, and I turned the engine off.


On the approach to the River Dart I took down the mainsail and ran in under the foresail. Not until ‘Ladybird’ was off Darthaven Marina did I start the engine. An examination of the anchorage between number 3 and number 5 buoys confirmed all would be well for anchoring. The Harbourmaster also gave his consent. I have located where I can buy another cap for the outboard, and tomorrow I’ll find a way of getting there.

Tuesday, 22nd June

Thatcher Rock
Laundry drying
Jetski on floating ramp - not seen this elsewhere
'Freedom', yacht for the disabled


Crème de la crème, Torquay Marina, among the rich and famous, ‘Ladybird’ is tied to pontoon D20; she lies hidden between two large motor yachts.


The day started, as usual, at 0510, in time for a cup of tea before the early morning forecast which mentioned a W or SW wind, increasing to 4 at times. There was not a breath of wind as I cast off the buoy at Starcross. Long streaky bits of weed floated on the surface of the mirror-like water, and some fouled the rudder, which made me keep the revs of the engine higher than I wanted, in the hope that the prop would not become clogged. All went well, but on the sharp bend leading towards Exmouth Marina the sun dazzled my eyes so that I could not see the buoys. Neither could I see the chart GPS because my eyes could not adjust to the low light of the screen. I kept a course dictated by memory from when I used to have boats on the Exe. A faster, more powerful yacht overhauled ‘Ladybird’; therefore I took the opportunity of following her, while periodically checking the depth sounder.


Near the mouth of the River, I noticed the buoys were in different positions to those shown on my GPS chart, which meant that the sandbanks had changed their position in recent years. As soon as we were clear of the shallows, I shaped a course for Hope’s Nose and turned off the engine. The boat just drifted along at 0.3 knots and the sun blazed down. For the first time during the cruise I was able to sunbathe and out of boredom I shaved. Dawlish and Teignmouth seemed never to move. Eventually, I turned on the engine to make progress; then the wind filled in from the SW. From there on I had a great sail to Torquay and on the way I admired the islets of the Ore Stone, the Lead Stone and Thatcher Rock. In Torbay and beyond, I counted six ships at anchor, which spoke volumes of the Country’s fragile economy.


Getting into the Marina was pretty easy, because there the wind was not so strong. I used the afternoon for doing the laundry and having a shower, before being visited by a friend who lives at Paignton. He presented me with a piece of cake saved from his eightieth birthday party; then he took me to a yacht he skippers for the disabled. She is a Hanse 35, extremely well fitted out.


I should have a quiet night here at the Marina, providing no drunks return to their yachts and wake me up.

Monday, 21st June

Dutch Style Buildings by the Cathedral
This may be the Old Courthouse.
The Cathedral


My first objective has been achieved, i.e., to reach Exmouth and Starcross. If I can work the boat further to the SW, that will be a bonus. This morning there is hardly any wind and the sun is making it scorching hot. For the first time during the cruise I have had to remove my shirt to remain cool. There is very little I need in way off provisions, but I took the dinghy ashore this morning so that I could do a little shopping for food at the Starcross Spar. I also had an interesting episode while fetching drinking water from the Starcross Fishing and Cruising Club’s slipway. Initially, I drew the dinghy up on the mud, but when I stepped into it my boots nearly disappeared in the ooze; with difficulty I managed to drag the dinghy to a sort of pebbly slip.


My aim today is to do what comes naturally; have a snooze, admire the scenery, watch the comings and goings of boats, and work out what next to do. The summer has come, and I’m really enjoying the holiday. I have no worries, no anxieties and I have time to relax, read, listen to the radio, or play with the computer. In modern jargon, I’m chilling out.


I’ll leave you with a few more photos I took when I was at Exeter yesterday.

Sunday, 20th June

Tudor Buildings
Riddle Object
Year of the Pedestrian
Richard Hooker


Having an inflatable dinghy makes a lot of difference when at a place such as Starcross, because instead of being marooned on the boat, I can get ashore. After a very easy-going start I caught the 1023 bus to Exeter which passed through every little village en route. It took about 40 minutes before it arrived at the Bus Station. From there I ambled along the High Street which has been set aside for pedestrians - quite different to when I lived in Exeter in the late sixties; in fact, parts of the City are unrecognisable by me, the Bus Station being an example.


My camera came in handy for recording those things that interested me. Two pieces of what I would consider to be mediocre sculpture have been erected in the High Street. There’s a gleaming rocket-shaped mirror structure with reverse engraved lettering of riddles which can be read when seen in the adjacent mirrors. To me, this is complete nonsense which I could not understand. I felt it was not beautiful or ugly; nor was it a meaningful icon representative of time, place or theme. - a waste of money, resources and effort. No doubt others see the object differently. The second minor monument was a representation of figures that vaguely could be taken to be humans: two adult males and a younger female with two children, possibly one girl and an older boy. It was unveiled in 1998, to commemorate the Year of the Pedestrian. Again, I would classify the piece as being in the category of wasted resources, but who am I to judge?


In a different category at the Cathedral precinct there’s a sculpture of Richard Hooker, (1554 to 1600), who according to a plaque nearby was a prophet, son of Exeter, a lively Elizabethan priest, quick witted, urbane, intellectually acute, politically sophisticated, and passionately committed to the Church of England which he served.


If you are a visitor to Exeter you will not leave without being aware of the rich legacy of preserved Tudor buildings.


After my re-acquaintance with the City Centre, my brother-in-law took me in his car to his home. There we had a good chat, catching up on the news. He kindly brought me back to Starcross about mid-afternoon where I was relieved to find the dinghy exactly as I had left it at the head of the slipway that passes under the railway lines.


Soon it will be time to cook the evening meal. Afterwards I may take a stroll before turning in for the night. That will complete a thoroughly enjoyable and relaxing day.

Saturday, 19th June

Exmouth Seafront
Starcross


The alarm went at 0150. There had been heavy rain, but by the time the boat was ready for casting off her lines, the rain had gone. While heading down the harbour towards the sea I hoisted full sail and turned on the navigation lights. The tide swished us around Portland Harbour. Now and again I consulted the chart and checked our route with the GPS. The lights of Portland and the dark silhouette of the familiar shape of the land that pointed to the Bill reassured me that we were on the right track. A trawler overhauled us and I was glad the navigation lights were in good order. She passed inshore of us when we were about a mile from the lighthouse. I closed the land to be in the best position for rounding the tip before heading west. Not once did I spot a crab pot float, but that was not surprising because the moon was completely hidden by the cloud.


We arrived exactly on time at the Bill to make the best use of the ebb which took us to the west at a rate of knots. No other boats could be seen in the brightening morn. Soon, a bright yellow sun rose above Portland and ‘Ladybird’ ran before the wind which came from the starboard quarter. She was rushing along at 5.6 knots. It was a lonely sea with no other boats for company. I kept glancing astern in the hope that a bigger yacht would overhaul ‘Ladybird’, as is generally the case, but this time there were none. The 35 mile crossing of Lyme Bay was a featureless trip, apart from the ever changing shapes of clouds.


About four miles from Straight Point at the entrance of the River Exe I turned on the VHF radio on channel 8 to monitor the Firing Range, but there was no activity, presumably because it was a Saturday. Several yachts were entering the River and small motor craft were whizzing along in the shallows close to the red sandstone cliffs. My impression was that the tide was ebbing, so I increased the revs of the engine, but when I noted the way a group of ribs were pointing I realised the current was still making. Memories of years ago when I kept boats at Starcriss flashed into my mind as I observed the beach and buildings of Exmouth’s seafront to starboard.


Where the River turns north by west I steered a course in the deeper water by keeping close to yachts at their moorings. Soon I could see the familiar jetty where the ferry berths from Exmouth and I prepared to pick up a mooring by having a rope and the boathook ready. My first attempt failed, but I saw a better buoy and successfully tied ’Ladybird’ to it. I just hope that the owner is away cruising and that perhaps he may be on my mooring while I am on his - not much chance of that, but the principle remains of cruising folk exchanging moorings.


Yes, I had arrived where I so much wanted to be - Starcross, a place of wonderful memories. The air is always so fresh there and for me it is an exciting place protected by the sand dunes of Dawlish Warren. The wind and sea call the tune for adventure. I hope I shall have a quiet night.

Friday, 18th June

Newsagents

Merry-go-round
Coat of Arms, Customs House
Sir HenryEdwards M.P. complete with pigeon
TS Pelican


Weymouth is a fascinating seaside resort. I love the architecture which is full of variety and the town has many interesting buildings. The beach is a golden stretch of sand. Today I used my camera freely, taking snaps of anything that caught my attention.


The photos above are typical of the objects that I felt were worthy of being captured for storage on my computer.


My hope is that I’ll be able to put to sea early tomorrow morning and make my way in the dark to Portland Bill to be there at the right time for taking the ebb across Lyme Bay, i.e., get underway at 0230 and be at the Bill by 0400 when it should just be getting light. One of the possible pitfalls of this strategy is becoming snarled on a the float of a crab pot. They are impossible to see in the dark, and even during daylight hours they can lurk just below the surface, since they are pulled under the water by the fast current.

Thursday, 17th June

Old Harry

Puffin

Al


Here at Weymouth the weather continues to be fine and I had an unexpected visit from Al, who owns a Paradox sailboat. He and I had two cruises together in our Paradoxes. This morning we had a really good reunion with much of our conversation being about boats.


Later, my nephew arrived to take me by car to see my brother.


There were a few interesting sailing boats in the harbour, but for me, the most attractive was a Victorian yacht, ’Puffin 11’. She had sailed from Poole where she is kept, and she left the harbour for the return sail this morning.


I’ll probably set off for Exmouth on Friday - that’s if the wind is OK.

Wednesday, 16th June

Digging for lugworms
Oil Rig
Crescent Moon Sunsdet
Golden Sunset
Wednesday, 16th June

Yes, you guessed right; ‘Ladybird’ is still at anchor this morning off Goathorn Head, Poole Harbour. It seems that for as long as the ridge of high pressure remains over England, strong NE winds will persist. They are in the right direction for Weymouth, and if I were in a bigger, more powerful yacht, I would up the anchor and be away. However, the Coastguard forecast a north-easterly occasionally reaching Force 8! I don’t like sailing in a Force 6, much preferring 3 or under, and a maximum of 4. Why should I move from this lovely spot?


You wouldn’t believe it, but Furzey Island, a half a mile away to the WNW, has an oil well gathering station for the largest onshore oil field in Western Europe. I can hear no noise from the Island or see any sign of such activity. A small ferry visits a slipway two or three times a day, and that’s it. Pine trees hide the structures from view, but to the SW, if I look carefully, I can see a rig sticking up above trees on the mainland. I believe this is the location of the Wytch Farm oil field in the Purbeck district of Dorset. The beleaguered BP Oil Company own and manage this field. Oil is pumped from there via Furzey Island to Fawley fifty miles away. Natural gas is also piped to Sopley. So, right in the midst of this area of special scientific interest and beauty, there lies hidden an industrial complex.


Life goes on around as if nothing has happened. An hour or so ago at low water, a fellow wearing Wellington boots and wielding a fork was digging for lugworms. A half-dozen windsurfers zoom by on a downwind course. A jaunty red trawler bobs along and the colours of the scene are fabulous with white caps breaking on olive green waves.


Addendum

The wind eased off; therefore I took advantage and sailed for Weymouth, where I am tonight.

Tuesday, 15th June

Tripper boat
Sloop, 'Merry May'
'Ageas', the Motor Yacht


The NE wind is too strong today for sailing to Weymouth. A gale force 8 is predicted for a period of time. However, the sun is shining and by evening there’s a forecast for cloud and a continuing strong wind. Maybe tomorrow the wind will ease?


The bonus to all this that I have plenty of time for relaxing and enjoying everything around me. To the north there’s Brownsea Island; to the northwest there’s Furzey Island; to the west there’s Green Island, and to the south there’s Goathorn Point. All of these places are wooded. Sadly, all of them are private, but at least they have a measure of protection for conserving the status quo, which includes the wildlife.


The channels between the islands are well buoyed, or they have starboard hand and port hand marker beacons.


This morning, not long before lunch, a motor yacht by the name of ‘Ageas’ arrived on the scene and let go her anchor to windward of ‘Merry May’, a smart modern sloop. ‘Ageas’s’ skipper had not given himself room for letting out plenty of chain and as a consequence his vessel drifted towards the anchored yacht. ‘Merry May’s’ captain persuaded the owner of the motor yacht to anchor elsewhere, so he promptly moved to a spot near ‘Ladybird’! The motor yacht’s skipper had not realized that my yacht could swing over the spot where he had set his anchor. When he twigged on to this fact, I could see that he was concerned, but I think he didn’t want to ask his wife to set the anchor for a third time. This meant the two boats were only yards apart, but to my relief, the motor yacht moved away after her crew had eaten their lunch.


Later in the afternoon, a brightly painted yellow tripper boat with the name ’Maid of Poole’ twice cruised around the Islands for her passengers to see them, and to hear a running commentary of the history of Poole Harbour.


I wonder how long I shall be port-bound? Not that I’m bored, but I shall have to put into a marina so that I can get ashore to shop for food. This is not desperate, because I only require things like: bananas, apples, cakes etc. Marinas are not my favourite places, but at them I can have a shower, get rid of rubbish, replenish the fresh water and when it’s time to do the laundering, I can make use of the facility.


This part of Poole Harbour is very beautiful, particularly the effect of the sunlight on the waves and the clouds. There is little incentive to leave the tranquillity.

Monday, 14th June

Low water
At the Quay
Hurst Point Lighthouse


I thought the boat would dry out at Keyhaven Quay, but there were a few inches of water under the keels. ‘Ladybird’ lay beside the Quay until this morning when I set off at 1045. The Quay was becoming a hive of activity. A crab boat arrived with a catch and a large yacht was about to be launched with the aid of a mobile crane. On the way out of the Harbour my chart GPS confirmed the course within the confines of the channel marked with starboard and port hand buoys. There was nothing to it really; my fears of Keyhaven were all in the mind. The practical working of the event was commonsense.


When the boat was clear of the Harbour I made full sail to combat the incoming tide around Hurst Point. I took a course fairly close to the Lighthouse where the water was astonishingly deep, but a bit further along the depth was only four meters. It was a reach along the shore before heading for the North Head Buoy from where I took the departure on a heading of 261 degrees for Poole Bar Buoy No. 1 sixteen miles away. I needed the engine as far as the Buoy, but from there on the tide eased and the wind backed to give us a run with the jib poled out.


Several yachts were all taking the same route. The sun was shining and the air was warm. The Autohelm managed to steer the course while I had lunch which consisted of a Cornish pasty I had bought at Milton earlier in the morning. As the afternoon wore on the wind petered out and it became an engine job. Getting into Poole required a three-quarter throttle and I only just manage to be clear of the chain ferry which continued remorselessly for the western jetty. At this point a cloudburst made everything soaking. South Deep seemed the best option for an anchorage which I found near other yachts at Goathorn Point. In the event this was not the best spot because the evening forecast predicted a Force 7 from the NE. I was reminded of my experience in Chichester of East Head.


I just think I’m going to have a rough night.